Could someone explain to me how to remove the prop shaft without removing the cutless strut or is that not possible. It seems to me the shaft will not come out because of the rudder. John
prop shaft
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I just received a quote to replace the shaft of a 30_74-83 from a well respected yard. The quote mentioned that sliding the engine out would be more cost effective than dropping the rudder. Will be seeking additional quotes!
I had it done by dropping the rudder
On my 37.5, I had to replace my cutless bearing. The boat yard dropped the rudder, took out the shaft, punch out the bearing, and replace it. It is hard for me to imagine a yard wanting to yank the engine, unless the boat's design is totally different from mine.
On my 37.5, I had to replace my cutless bearing. The boat yard dropped the rudder, took out the shaft, punch out the bearing, and replace it. It is hard for me to imagine a yard wanting to yank the engine, unless the boat's design is totally different from mine.
JC, no need
to drop the rudder on my 37.5 just to replace the cutless bearing. I just did it and you can remove the shaft with the rudder in place. Was there some other reason to drop the rudder? Some boats (Benneteau 34..etc.) do require engine removal to get the shaft out. There is a skeg aft of the shaft which means it has to go forward to remove it. Ah - more French engineering...
to drop the rudder on my 37.5 just to replace the cutless bearing. I just did it and you can remove the shaft with the rudder in place. Was there some other reason to drop the rudder? Some boats (Benneteau 34..etc.) do require engine removal to get the shaft out. There is a skeg aft of the shaft which means it has to go forward to remove it. Ah - more French engineering...
I have a hurricane damaged (Ivan) hunter 30 that the cutless bearing is bad but I would like to verify the shaft is not bent
74-83 Hunter 30's
The yard that told you that the engine needed to be pulled to slide the shaft out was right if you have a full skeg rudder. It won't slide out past the skeg so the only way out is forward. Hope that I didn't ruin you day. I got the same information today from my surveyor. *cry
The yard that told you that the engine needed to be pulled to slide the shaft out was right if you have a full skeg rudder. It won't slide out past the skeg so the only way out is forward. Hope that I didn't ruin you day. I got the same information today from my surveyor. *cry
Why do you need to remoce the prop shaft?
If you need to remove the shaft to check if the shaft is not bent, than you need to consider the rudder or engine, but if you need to replace the cutless bearing, than there is no need to touch either one. I was quoted anywhere from $400 to $1200 to replace the cutless bearing - so I did it myself, it cost me $54 for the bearing and literally 15 minutes of work. Please let me know what you need and I will be happy to tell you how I did it.
If you need to remove the shaft to check if the shaft is not bent, than you need to consider the rudder or engine, but if you need to replace the cutless bearing, than there is no need to touch either one. I was quoted anywhere from $400 to $1200 to replace the cutless bearing - so I did it myself, it cost me $54 for the bearing and literally 15 minutes of work. Please let me know what you need and I will be happy to tell you how I did it.
Cutlass Bearing
Show us or tell us how to replace the cutlass bearing. I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to save a grand! mine needs to be replaced soon
Show us or tell us how to replace the cutlass bearing. I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to save a grand! mine needs to be replaced soon
Look for the set screws and loosen them
then figure some kind of screwdriver or punch to push the bearing out. The bearing may have taken a set over time from being painted or some slight corrosion or growth but after a hammer blow or two each way to loosen it up, it should slide out. It should be tight but not too tight to punch out. Careful not to damage anything with that hammer. Obviously you need to remove the prop to take the bearing off of the shaft. You do not necessarily need to remove the shaft. If you do, it may get past the rudder. Once it is removed from the flange, the front end of the shaft will have enough play which (on mine) is enough to clear the rudder. Install is the reverse. It is a piece of cake.
then figure some kind of screwdriver or punch to push the bearing out. The bearing may have taken a set over time from being painted or some slight corrosion or growth but after a hammer blow or two each way to loosen it up, it should slide out. It should be tight but not too tight to punch out. Careful not to damage anything with that hammer. Obviously you need to remove the prop to take the bearing off of the shaft. You do not necessarily need to remove the shaft. If you do, it may get past the rudder. Once it is removed from the flange, the front end of the shaft will have enough play which (on mine) is enough to clear the rudder. Install is the reverse. It is a piece of cake.
Patrick: There was another reason too.
I had another reason to drop the rudder. You see, we were up by Desolation Sound, and a floating log snuck up on us and jumped right in front of us. It attacked our bow, then keel, then rudder. thump, thump, thump. Nothing major died, but did check and tighten and align everything. The yard told me what all they did, but didn't tell me exactly which they did for which repair. The Cutlass bearing wasn't totally shot yet, but we could tell it was going, so we replaced it too.
I had another reason to drop the rudder. You see, we were up by Desolation Sound, and a floating log snuck up on us and jumped right in front of us. It attacked our bow, then keel, then rudder. thump, thump, thump. Nothing major died, but did check and tighten and align everything. The yard told me what all they did, but didn't tell me exactly which they did for which repair. The Cutlass bearing wasn't totally shot yet, but we could tell it was going, so we replaced it too.
H-30 cherup -- shaft removal
journey: Until last year I owned a H-30 cherub. I have removed the shaft myself without touching the rudder or skeg. Remove the strut bolts (nuts are under muffler at bottom of bilge). Then there is enough play to remove the shaft with the strut and cutlass bearing still attached. You must of course separate the flange from the shaft. It presses out by using a socket and its own bolts against the transmission flange. Good luck it is not hard if flange is not too corroded and you can get the long strut bolts out. If some one used 5200 it is not easy. Henry
journey: Until last year I owned a H-30 cherub. I have removed the shaft myself without touching the rudder or skeg. Remove the strut bolts (nuts are under muffler at bottom of bilge). Then there is enough play to remove the shaft with the strut and cutlass bearing still attached. You must of course separate the flange from the shaft. It presses out by using a socket and its own bolts against the transmission flange. Good luck it is not hard if flange is not too corroded and you can get the long strut bolts out. If some one used 5200 it is not easy. Henry
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