ProFurl S26 with Failure at Sail Attachment Point

[BrianAllen]

I have a Hunter 25.5 (1984) with a ProFurl S26. The housing on the furler is a plastic like material that had an eyelet integrated into the top of the housing for attaching the sail. I don't know what a material is for sure. I am looking for an epoxy or similar material that would bond a metal eyelet into this housing. I talked with 3M and they suggested asking a sailing forum since they didn't know the exact material.

Is anyone familiar with this ProFurl S26 and know the material? Or, do you have a suggested bonding agent?



Any ideas would be appreciated.

- Brian Allen

 

[dlochner]

Have you contacted Profurl? They should know or might have a replacement part.

 

[BrianAllen]

Have you contacted Profurl? They should know or might have a replacement part.

I have, but I have never had them respond. I have heard in other threads that they are slow to respond if at all for very old equipment.

 

[dlochner]

Give Rigging Only a call. Rigging Only They carry Profurl and are really knowledgeable. They might have an idea.

 

[rgranger]

Is there a place on the housing where you could run a test without the test results interfering with the use of your profurl?

If it were me, I'd try bonding a small ss washer to an "out of the way place" using JB weld. Let it cure and then see if you can "chip" the washer off using the blade of a flat-headed screw driver and a light hammer. If the washer holds, I'd then put the housing in the freezer for a while, let it warm up and try the "chipping" experiment again. If it holds, I'd call it good , put in your eyelet and go sailing.

 

[BrianAllen]

Is there a place on the housing where you could run a test without the test results interfering with the use of your profurl?

If it were me, I'd try bonding a small ss washer to an "out of the way place" using JB weld. Let it cure and then see if you can "chip" the washer off using the blade of a flat-headed screw driver and a light hammer. If the washer holds, I'd then put the housing in the freezer for a while, let it warm up and try the "chipping" experiment again. If it holds, I'd call it good , put in your eyelet and go sailing.

Interesting idea.

 

[rgranger]

BTW: I have bonded two pieces of Trex faux wood using JB Weld and did a "destruction" test. The fail happened in the wood and not at the joint. So I know JB will bond to plastic. I have also used JB weld to fix a crack in the oil pan of a Ford Ranger. I then tapped the JB weld for a new plug. Six years later when I sold the truck, the fix was still holding. So I also know JB weld will bond metal. Can't say if it will bond metal to plastic but it might be worth a try and if it works it is a very quick and inexpensive fix.

 

[BrianAllen]

I have found a Roller Furling Bail as an option to just put a attachment point directly above the original housing.

 

[BrianAllen]

BTW: I have bonded two pieces of Trex faux wood using JB Weld and did a "destruction" test. The fail happened in the wood and not at the joint. So I know JB will bond to plastic. I have also used JB weld to fix a crack in the oil pan of a Ford Ranger. I then tapped the JB weld for a new plug. Six years later when I sold the truck, the fix was still holding. So I also know JB weld will bond metal. Can't say if it will bond metal to plastic but it might be worth a try and if it works it is a very quick and inexpensive fix.

Which JB Weld product, there are so many version these days?

 

[rgranger]

I used regular JB weld for both. I have seen the marine JB weld but have not used it. I assume the "marine" means they charge more for it.

 

[Whatfiero1]

Looks like there still enough material there to drill and install a 3/16" pin or clevis. Right where u pointing

 

[rgranger]

Do you still have the piece of plastic that broke off? If so, I'd JB that back on and if some oozes into the hole, you can drill that out.

 

[BrianAllen]

Do you still have the piece of plastic that broke off? If so, I'd JB that back on and if some oozes into the hole, you can drill that out.

I wish that was the case.

 

[jssailem]

Brian.
I had a profurler system. Your part is different then the one I had. I am trying to understand the part you are looking at and what the broken plastic piece did. It looks like the piece is the swivel to raise the sail. Is that correct? If so to what did you connect the plastic part to? How was it used? This could give you clues to the importance and the strength needed for the glue.

 

[BrianAllen]

Brian.
I had a profurler system. Your part is different then the one I had. I am trying to understand the part you are looking at and what the broken plastic piece did. It looks like the piece is the swivel to raise the sail. Is that correct? If so to what did you connect the plastic part to? How was it used? This could give you clues to the importance and the strength needed for the glue.

It is were the Tack of the jib attaches to the furler with a shackle. The part missing would have been a simple loop/eyelet for the shackle to attach.

The image is the top of the spooling housing and just below out of view would be the actual spool for the line.

 

[rgranger]

Maybe we are making this harder than it needs to be. If all you need is a place to tie-off the tack of your headsail then maybe just drill a hole in the base (see pic) and run a loop of dynema (or strong nylon) and attach the tack of your sail to the loop using a small ss-shackle or snap hook.

 

[BrianAllen]

Maybe we are making this harder than it needs to be. If all you need is a place to tie-off the tack of your headsail then maybe just drill a hole in the base (see pic) and run a loop of dynema (or strong nylon) and attach the tack of your sail to the loop using a small ss-shackle or snap hook.

View attachment 171391

That was one of our first ideas. The interior structure has baffles for strength, which prevented us from doing that approach. We have also considered perpendicular hole through the area to hold a loop or other hardware.

We have a concern about removing too much material and loss of strength. Plus, we don't know the full interior design of this part.

 

[rgranger]

That was one of our first ideas. The interior structure has baffles for strength, which prevented us from doing that approach. We have also considered perpendicular hole through the area to hold a loop or other hardware.

We have a concern about removing too much material and loss of strength. Plus, we don't know the full interior design of this part.

 

[rgranger]

Maybe a loop of dynema or a small diameter ss cable like what is used for rigging here... chafe would probably be an issue with dynema and the ss cable might saw through your aluminum. Back to JB weld?

 

[jssailem]

Brian
Ok. Short of getting a replacement part, I think you re going to need to get creative. I like @rgranger idea of dyneema. I think you could get a piece of 1/8 in line, drill a small hole through the stub and it will turn out to be as strong as the connection that broke. I think I can tie a soft shackle that you could use for the connection. Let me know what the hole size you can drill. I would be looking at the nub that sticks up on the outside to the right of your finger. It looks like you could drill maybe a 3/16ths or 1/4 inch (that would be best) and still have 50% or more of the plastic material left.