Professional Mariner Battery Charger

[Bob Camarena]

While at the yacht club the other day I picked up a discarded Professional Mariner "Flyback 20-3" battery charger that someone had replaced with a Statpower charger (the old one was in the new box). It looked almost new and was squeeky clean inside and out. It turned out to have a blown AC fuse. Assuming that it's otherwise OK I'm wondering how it compares with the West Marine 10A 3-stage charger I installed in my Catalina 30 a couple of years ago. If price is any indication, I found the Professional Mariner on the web for a "discount" price of about $330 vs. the $125-$130 I paid for the West Marine. I've been completely satisfied with the West Marine. Do I swap them out or pass the Professional Mariner on to a friend or sell it at the next swap meet? Assuming the Professional Mariner puts out the required voltage, charges a battery and doesn't blow the fuse, anything I should check out?

 

[Jon W]

Flyback

This is the same charger that came as standard equipment on my C310. According to my digital battery monitor, it does a good job charging my two 4D Exides. Seems to go through all the stages at the proper voltage, at the proper times. The owner's manual is fairly brief, but indicates it is a rather robust unit. I'm not sure if the three outputs are 3 X 20A, or 3 / 20A. The built in thermostatically controlled cooling fan is rather louder than I am used to, and seems to cycle a lot.If your happy with the charging time of your current charger, I wouldn't bother replacing it.

 

[Jon W]

I checked the manual

It doesn't seem to say so directly, but I think the total output might be 20 Amps. It says it is designed with three isolated outputs that can sense and charge three battery banks as needed. "Each output is capable of carrying the full current load". If less than three outputs are used, the unused output(s) should be connected to a used one to avoid reducing charger performance. It also has overvoltage and over tempature shutdown. Output must be adjusted for lead acid, or gelcells by an internal DIP switch. It does claim it's a three stage charger.Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

[Bob Camarena]

Question for Jon W.

I have a few questions from the manual:1. Does it give an amp rating for the AC fuse? The one in it is 8A and has blown. I couldn't find an 8A in the required size fuse, but tried a 6A which blew immediately.2. Does it give any hint as to what would blow the fuse?3. What are the DIP switch settings for lead acid vs gel cell?Thx.Bob

 

[Jon W]

Here you go

1. The manual doesn't state internal fuse rating, but says that a fuse or breaker should be used at the boat's electrical panel. The recommended fuse for that purpose is 10 Amps for the Flyback 20-3.2. Also states that the internal fuse is on the D.C. negative and is normaly blown only when a battery is installed backwards. It should not blow under normal operation.2. For Lead/Acid, DIP switch SW1 has #1 on, and #2 off. For Gel Cell, #1 off, #2 on. "On" positions are at the top, farthest away from R45 and R39, with #1 on the left and #2 on the right. Hope this makes sense when you look at it.Customer support number is (805) 644-1886

 

[Ernie April]

Professional Mariner reviewed

Hey, Bob--I have a 30A/3 ProMariner on my C42 which keeps 3 4Ds charged and runs my refrig at dock. Also had one on a former Hunter-34. Was impressed with both. They are powerful and reliable units found in over 700,000 boats as OEM equipment. PRACTICAL SAILOR reviewed the ProM in the Nov 15, 1999 issue. While not top choice (Statpower 20A was top), ProM received the only other unconditional recommendation with the notation that no other charger charged as fast beause its amperage was higher. As for your 3-y.o. West Marine unit, you might look for an old cartalog and determine who may have made it for them (they appear to have dropped their house brand and are pushing Statpower). Unless I knew for sure who made the West 10A/3, I would certainly go with the more powerful ProM 20A/3. I serve a double (paralleled) house bank by joining two outputs (#2+#3) as well as a single starting/windless battery from a single output (#1). If you don't have 3 bats, here's a good excuse.Cheers--Ernie April