Jim, I hate to say it, but that Schaefer furler on the 192 is pretty much despised. I couldn't keep my luff tight, so I got rid of it. Good thing I had a hank on jib that came with the boat. Then again, my new halyards could have helped as well, less stretch with Vectran core. Which is total overkill on our boats.
You might take it apart and see if it's binding at all, or if there's slop that's causing the furling line to get caught between the drum and the housing. Make sure the furling line is led along the stanchion bases, or is it down the deck, through the bullseye fairlead, to make sure there's a good angle entering the drum.
If your old Schaefer unit is whupped, but you like a wire luff furler (I do not) you could check out a Selden or Harken small boat furler to replace it.
http://www.apsltd.com/c-1070-smallboatfurlingsystems.aspx
Perhaps your jib is old, and needs replacement? In that case, consider a 135% genoa, and get a Schaefer Snap Furl or CDI Flexible Furler for it. But then you have to figure where to put genoa track to allow for reefing. Probably down the side decks. I don't think track along the cabin top will allow for 3 fairlead positions on a 135% (at full, 100% and 90% storm positions), and now you've got a wider sheeting angle for the genoa if you move from the cabin top to the side deck, so you might suffer pointing. Then again, I know people who have a 135% on a reefing furler on the 192.
I mentioned that I do not like the wire luff furler. The main reason is I couldn't get adequate luff tension, and it's all or nothing - no furling. Also, the jib didn't furl evenly or tightly, so I worried about it blowing open if stored hoisted and furled. After reading other's problem with the old Schaefer unit (probably in Small Craft Advisor's review of the 192 last year) I chucked mine. Instead, I rigged a downhaul line, which allows me to stand in the companionway, and pull the hank on jib down. Once down, and the downhaul secured, I can cleat both jib sheets, and the jib stays well controlled on the foredeck until I'm ready to unhank it, though I now have a nice jib bag. I used a piece of grey exterior PVC electrical conduit about 2" long, cut a slit in it to fit it over the forestay, and tied a 3/16" line to it. Generally, this PVC "car" goes between the head hank and the next one down, and runs through a hank about 1/2 way down the luff, so that it doesn't sag off and flap. I run the downhaul through small bullet block shackled to the Schaefer drum U bolt on the deck, and back through the bullseye on the deck to the horn cleat on the side of the house, down the port side because the jib halyard cleats on the port side of the mast. It gets a little crowded with the cam cleat on the cabin side which is for the asym tack line, but that's how I got the boat. Works pretty well, and it's easier than having to run up to the foredeck. (Luckily for me our lake doesn't see conditions - if it did, I'd rely on the downhaul far more…)
Hope this helps.
