Our almost 70 day journey began on June 15, 2015 at Shelter Bay Marina, across from LaConner in what the locals affectionately call “ditch", or more commonly known as Swinomish Channel due to its narrow and shallow passage. We have Belle-Vie well stocked with provisions, all gear stowed and ready for an 0730 cast off to follow the ebb north to Eagle Harbor, one of our most favorite haunts about 15 miles away.
Normally, we would head west from Eagle Harbor towards Poets Cove to clear Canada Customs at Bedwell, but instead a more direct route north to Semi-ah-moo would save time with a plan to clear customs at White Rock. We stay at Eagle Harbor for two days waiting for Friehet, a 32 foot Freedom cat sloop skippered by John Lund, to join up. His plans change due to an ankle sprain, so we head out for Semi-ah-moo on a flood and nice southerly for the 25 mile leg under sail all the way.
Mariposa, a 27 foot Cal T2 sloop skippered by Bob Barker, begins cancer treatment soon so his plans prevent him joining the flotilla. Wassail, a 34 foot Pacific Seacraft cutter, skippered by Colin Banks, left a few days ago with plans to stop by Jack’s place on Pender Island for a visit then a flotilla rendezvous in Nanaimo. On 6/19, after topping off fuel, water and pumping out, we head for White Rock at 1230 to clear Canada Customs with a minus tide approaching. Water very thin (19’) as we approach the breakwater. Peeking in to the small government dock, a large power boat is hard aground on the land side of the dock and a sail boat is on the water side with no skipper in sight. So I call Customs, explain our plight to a very nice agent who then gives us clearance.
Skipper and Belle-Vie head northwest in a slow broad reach past Point Roberts, through Porlier Pass to Clam Bay arriving at 2200 hours. Dropped and set anchor in the dark amongst several boats for a quiet evening. Departed Clam Bay at 0900 for Dodd Narrows in slack water at 1300 passing through with a two knot ebbing current, then wind on the nose to Nanaimo. Spotted Wassail at anchor in Mark Bay. Colin plans to leave in the morning for Secret Cove on the sunshine coast to pick up Martina Zuidema, his crew for the journey. We will meet him there in a day or so.
On 6/22 a brisk beam reach sail to Secret Cove, about 26 miles distance in a northeasterly, but a bit lumpy crossing Georgia Strait arriving at 1430 with no Wassail in sight. Turns out he is at Elizabeth’s dock, out of sight, who is a friend of Martina’s. While Belle-Vie remains at anchor skipper rows over for a visit with Elizabeth a short dinghy distance away in a small cove across from Buccaneer Marina as Martina puts her personal affairs in order for the journey.
We wait several days in Secret Cove while Colin and Martina head out for a day sail, then an overnight cruise to Anderson Bay on the SE end of Texada Island as Martina has never been on a sailboat cruise before. Our current plan is to attend the Lasqueti Art Festival 7/3-5, which is always a hoot. We’ll sail over to Boho Bay and go ashore for the festival, then head north to Lund. Finally, set sail on 7/2 over to the SE side of Lasqueti Island, across Malaspina Strait, then motor through the wind shadow of Texada towards Tucker Bay. Lots of very tasty oysters to be had; yum!
Colin and I dinghy ashore, then bushwhack our way for an hour before we find a trail that turns into a primitive road that takes us to the Community Hall where they hold the Art Festival. Whew! Good turnout, great music, yummy food, lots of artwork with some familiar faces. Unfortunately, no marching band this year. Some of the organizers and actors have left the island, but a grand time is had by all.
The next day we awake to snow fall, ash falling from several forest fires on the mainland. Boat becomes a mess. Sky has an eerie cast with an odd bright red orb for a sun. We depart for Lund on 7/5 with no wind, motoring most of the way, docking at the Hotel wharf. All make a mad dash to the pub for a beer and burger dinner. Also time to wash cloths, wash the ash off the boat and purchase some provisions. A note to help prevent a mutiny; Caribana Sol Spiced Rum becomes our new favorite drink after a long days slog. It is a Barbados Virgin Rum with natural flavors. A must have for any serious sailboat crew.
A nice short sail to Squirrel Cove for the night, then an early (0500) cast off for an 0923 Gillard Rapids slack water, a stop at Big Bay for lunch, then to Shoal Bay dropping anchor at 1130 under smokey forest fire skies. Left Shoal Bay at 0930 on 7/8 for Cordero Channel, Chancellor Channel, Wellbor Channel and to Port Neville. Johnstone Strait nasty as usual from the afternoon onshore winds. Had to do a reverse maneuver in order to dock Belle-Vie in following winds and current.
Lorna and her daughter Erika have left Hansen Landing for Campbell River where Lorna remarried and Erika is soon to be remarried leaving the homestead in the care of Chet and Theresa his wife of 38 years, both ministers serving the remote BC coast on their Coastal Messenger. Ron stopped by for a brew, a retired engineering professor at University of British Columbia, Vancouver. Then over to Lagoon Cove wharf for happy hour with funny stories and a visit with fellow boaters. Jean has the 158 acre parcel for sale at $1.3M including marina, house, guest cottage and out buildings. Bill, her husband, passed away two years ago from health complications. Bob and Cathy gone and Lyle and Heidi helping out. Lots of work and repairs to keep it going. No interest from these precincts.
Arrive Shoal Harbor 7/11 at 1515 and noticed Clam Garden at the entrance where First Nation people harvested smelt and other sea life for many generations. Colin wants to stop at Echo Bay for fuel, so we tie up to the east side dock for an hour. After some hailing confusion and a lecture (I just love being lectured) from the owner I must pay a $5 transient fee. On that note I will not buy fuel plus I hail a respectful message to the owners regarding their guest treatment. Then back to Shoal Harbor for a spaghetti dinner on Belle-Vie, receiving raves from the flotilla.
Departed Shoal Harbor 7/12 in the rain at 1100 on the remaining flood that will give us a bit of a push across Fife Sound before turing to ebb on the way to Sullivan Bay. Sailed most of the way arriving 1430 for guest moorage and fuel. Nice floating community of homes and small stores with no shore access. Colin has had no luck catching crab so I grab my two gallon green wash down bucket and walk the dock when all of a sudden three legal size crab just jump right in. Crab dinner for three tonight. Actually, the general store did not know the contents of their canned crab. The owner says if I want crab I can have a couple for dinner. So his dock hand brought up a basket full of crab and gave me three they had caught earlier. Some marina owners are really very nice.
Pouring down rain at Sullivan Bay, water begins streaming down compression post for the first time since we purchased Belle-Vie in 2002. Normally, I clean out the small weep hole at the mast step every season so that rain water can drain rather than fill and spill over the plastic wire conduit . I use my trusty auger to insert into the weep hole and gunk and water come streaming out. Problem solved. As I get underway, I yell out, “Mukilteo Yacht Club departing”. Well our slip neighbor says they live there, too. Turns out they are the KLB construction family boat that we know so well for so long. Small world, eh?
Under sail from Sullivan Bay at noon 7/13 arriving Blunden Harbor 1730, a very quiet anchorage, then on to Allison Harbor the next day in heavy fog. Cape Caution is new territory for Belle-Vie in no wind, soggy, and very, very lumpy as the Pacific rollers interact with the Queen Charlotte Strait ebb. We make the turn towards Egg Island and on to Fury Cove for a quiet evening at anchor. Paul and Allison in Essence, a 1981 37.5 Hunter, stop by for a visit. They followed us from Sullivan Bay also heading to points north, from Vancouver, keeping their boat in Blaine, WA.
A nice beat then a wind shift to close haul sail from Fury Cove to Namu, an abandoned cannery, about 27 miles away. Rock Inlet is behind the cannery, a very small and well protected anchorage. Motor sailed to New Bella Bella on 7/17, but no room at the dock, so we tie up to the Shearwater breakwater a short distance away. Very nice First Nation community where we wash cloths, some provisions and fuel. Thank you Martina for convincing the Wharfinger, who we were unable to reach when we came in, to give us a $40 pass on dock fees due to her handicap condition.
A very breezy lumpy motor sail to Oliver Bay, a terrible unprotected bay, so we cross the channel to Boat Inlet that has a very thin entrance (1.3 feet at zero tide state), but we enter at high tide to a quiet anchorage inside. An oh dark thirty (0600) departure for Klemtu, 18 miles away, so that we have enough water (8.6 feet tide state) to leave the anchorage. Then we decide to cross Jackson Pass to Finlayson Channel on our way to Klemtu at low tide. Really thin water on the east entrance with six feet under the keel and lots of bull kelp. A nice beam reach across Finlayson Channel where we pass several Humpback whales that came very, very close to Belle-Vie.
Arrived Klemtu on 7/20, a First Nation village of about 500 people on Swindle Island. We tie up to their fishing dock where George Robinson, the long house caretaker, greets us. He is very friendly and moorage is free. Upon my return from running a young family arrives with fresh crab. I ask if he can spare three. He can and my story to the flotilla is the same as before. We need crab for dinner, so I carry my green wash down bucket along the dock and crab just jump in.
Belle-Vie’s rudder picks up a wad of bull kelp going through Jackson Pass causing the steering system to wobble (at the time I did not know the cause). As soon as we arrive at Klemtu, an Environment Canada boat shows up right next to ours with divers aboard to take sediment core samples. I ask them, if they have the time, please check Belle-Vie’s hull for any obstructions. Later they do and report clearing several bull kelp wrapped around the rudder. Thank you Environment Canada. Perfect timing!
We’re very close to Princess Royal Island in our quest to see Kermode (Spirit) Bear. Quigley Creek Cove is poorly charted. On 7/22 we find the best spot to anchor, which is in 66 feet of water, letting out 170 plus feet of rode. Argh! The Creek is exceptionally pretty, so we dinghy up into it as far as we can go. No sign of Kermode here. We did manage to see and hear, and recognize for the first time, a Red Throated Loon, which quacks like a duck and has a call very much like a Seagull wail. Very impressive.
Leave Quigley Creek Cove at 1200, then through Meyers Narrows, over to Laredo Inlet and up to Bay of Plenty, our most northern anchorage and on Princess Royal Island. Bay of Plenty is large with nothing of interest, but one other boat. We leave Bay of Plenty 7/24 spending the evening in Meyers Narrows Cove on our way back to Klemtu. George tells us that Kermode Bears usually remain in the hills until late September when the freshet signals the salmon to begin their up river spawn. That is when the bears come down out if the hills to feed on the spawning salmon. Nice trip, though.
Klemtu on 7/25. Colin has caught no fish, so I take my green wash down bucket and walk the dock in search of fish. Sure enough, Ken and his wife arrive in their fishing trawler with maybe 40 Sockeye and 60 King salmon (gill netter). I ask if he would be willing to part with one. Yup! He sells me an eight pound Sockeye for $10. It is a female full of eggs to boot. Colin cleans the fish and later we have a grand meal of fried salmon. The next day I prepare my favorite egg fry dish topped with salmon roe. Delicious! Then some sailing time to Boat Inlet that shows 1.3 feet of water at zero tide state. Our flotilla makes a stop at New Bella Bella for fuel, then Beasly Bay in Gunboat Pass for the night.
Left Beasly Bay 7/26 through Matthew Channel, Cousins Inlet to the Ocean Falls marina. We spend two nights there hunkered down in a very wet and soggy blow. Ocean Falls receives about 172 inches of rain fall per year, was once a thriving Crown Zellerbach pulp town of about 4,000 people with a hydroelectric dam to feed the town and mill’s electrical needs. The mill is gone but the dam still supplies electricity to Ocean Falls (population 150), Shearwater and New/Bella Bella. The hospital, school, hotel and many other buildings remain empty.
Back to Rock Inlet behind Namu on 7/29, Fury Cove 7/30, Cape Caution was well behaved this time through, followed by Allison Bay. Watched an Eagle chasing an Osprey for the fish it had captured. Quite the show. Miles Inlet was tight, but the roar from the water emptying out of the lagoon was impressive.
Sailed to Blunden Harbor where I end up standing on my head inside Wassail’s engine compartment extracting too much oil from the transmission in hopes that that will help it operate better. Beef stew on Belle-Vie with a raisin cake that Colin baked. Delicious. Cullen Bay off west entrance to Fife Sound on 8/2 at 1400. The last time here was 2008. A River Otter floats by on his back early evening with no bother so close to Belle-Vie. Shoal Bay 8/3 then Cutter Cove for lumpy night at anchor. A nice 27 mile broad reach sail past Port Neville on 8/5 to Forward Harbor for a calm and quiet night close to shore amongst several boats. Awoke early morning to a hooting owl.
Up at 0430 on 8/6 for an early sail through Green Rapids in a following current reaching a blistering speed of 9.8 knots. On to Big Bay for a nights stay at the Stuart Island Community Association dock. Lots of changes; new buildings, docks and services for the boating and fishing community. Very strong eddies through the upper part of Gillard Rapids on a flooding following current.
Motor sailed through Yukulta Rapids on 8/7 at a 0600 flood slack pushing Belle-Vie to ten plus knots, passing Squirrel Cove to Lund where we squeeze into the Hotel Dock again, then up to the pub for well earned burgers and beer. Sturt Bay on the NE side of Texada Island where we were last here in 2004. Blustery night, Belle-Vie swinging about, on anchor watch until 0000 when the wind finally decided to ease. Garden Bay is a 23 miles lumpy motor sail, finally quieting by mid afternoon. Peaceful nights sleep at anchor.
Colin needs to stop by Secret Cove on 8/11 to drop off some of Martina’s personal effects and pick up some of his. We have another nice visit with Elizabeth, who has had a mild heart attach, her second, but is resting well at her home under her daughter Christina’s care. Then on to Smuggler Cove for fresh oysters.
Nice sail past Sechelt on 8/12, waving at Martina off in the distance. She can see us, but too much boat movement and distance to see her. During our oyster dinner in Smuggle rCove I came across a small white pearl amongst the oysters, about the size of a large pin head. Since we have never been to Plumper Cove, we decide to try it. Nice anchorage but unprotected from a northwesterly. The next morning, after some discussion, we agree to sail over to Silva Bay on 8/13, another first for us. We arrive in very nice warm weather. Off to the pub for burgers and beer once we set anchor. Then off to bed for a very quiet night.
At 0900 on 8/14 we cruise through Gabriola Pass on our way to rendezvous with John Lund, and Don and Nancy in Princess Cove on Wallace Island. A bit crowded, but the oysters we gather for dinner makes for a nice cap to the day. Don and Nancy have us over for chili and corn bread dinner on their new-to-them Beneteau 36 named Zeevalk.
Set sail for Montague Harbor on 8/16 to ride the school bus to Hummingbird Pub for dinner. What a hoot. Lots of anchoring room and weather is clearing and warm. Then under sail for Roche Harbor to clear US Customs on 8/17, about 22 miles. We move from the Customs to “C” dock for lunch. While there Vlad and Elena Krasnov stop by for a visit who have a sister boat named Eurus anchored in the harbor. Later John and I spend the night in Garrison Bay, a well protected quiet anchorage with a beans and franks dinner on Belle-Vie. During the night the chain wrapped the anchor and ended up breaking the boat hook untangling it the next morning. Good thing Garelick Marine guarantees their hooks for life. This will be the third hook for this pole and is the one I use all the time. I carry two extras just in case.
Set sail for Blind Bay 8/18, passing by a good sized Orca pod in Speiden Channel with broaching Orcas, then heard VHF chatter about, and saw a large (50’) power boat drove onto the well marked reef outside of Jones Island. What a mess. Holes in the hull, owners abandoned ship for fear of sinking. Coast Guard on site assisting. Continued on under sail through Pole Pass and found one mooring ball empty at Blind Bay (used to be only three, now four). While there two small day sailers come in who are with YMCA Camp Orkila of Orcas Island. Chris, Anna and Kelly have been out for two weeks and need a place to spend the night so Belle-Vie helps them raft up.
Depart for Eagle Harbor on 8/18 with plans to spend a day or so before returning home. Arrived home on 8/22 after a wonderful cruise to see Spirit Bear. I did see him, although it was on a post card. Oh well, what a wonderful journey well worth making loaded with many new experiences and vistas etched in my mind forever. Just finished editing a DVD of the trip with lots of video clips and stills to remind us of the grand time we had. Make it happen!
