removehtml]What do you use to remove the natural surface oil from teak before applying wood finish? I've used acetone in the past, but I'm wondering if something else will do a better job. Thanks.Error: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
Prepping teak
- Thread starter Mike8088
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Bleach
When I used teak oil I put one part bleach to two parts water in a bucket and scrubbed away. For cleaning up prior to using Teak Guard, a water based product, I either scrub with boat soap and water or apply their solution which is basically a mix of oxcylic acid and water. Wear old clothes of course.
When I used teak oil I put one part bleach to two parts water in a bucket and scrubbed away. For cleaning up prior to using Teak Guard, a water based product, I either scrub with boat soap and water or apply their solution which is basically a mix of oxcylic acid and water. Wear old clothes of course.
teak cleaner
There are several 2-part teak cleaners available. With most you wet down the teak, apply the first solution, scrub with a brush, rinse, and apply the second solution to neutralize, then rinse and let dry. Be careful not to use too stiff of a brush which will gouge out the soift grain of the teak.
There are several 2-part teak cleaners available. With most you wet down the teak, apply the first solution, scrub with a brush, rinse, and apply the second solution to neutralize, then rinse and let dry. Be careful not to use too stiff of a brush which will gouge out the soift grain of the teak.
It depends on what you're putting on the teak.
According to Rebecca Whitman's book, " Brightwork", if the teak is clean, sanded and ready for a finish, removing the oil isn't necessary if you putting oil or varnish on it . They both have an oil base and will all mix together nicely with the natural oils in the teak. If you think about it, why would you remove the oil to put oil back on? Now if you're putting on one of the new fancy polmer finishes, I have no dea.
According to Rebecca Whitman's book, " Brightwork", if the teak is clean, sanded and ready for a finish, removing the oil isn't necessary if you putting oil or varnish on it . They both have an oil base and will all mix together nicely with the natural oils in the teak. If you think about it, why would you remove the oil to put oil back on? Now if you're putting on one of the new fancy polmer finishes, I have no dea.
If you are using something like
Signature Honey Teak, a catalyzed acrylic urethane enamel - You clean and brighten first with a two part teak cleaner, let it dry, lightly sand, then wipe off the dust (and any oil newly exposed by the sanding) with denatured alcohol, and finally, tack rag it just before applying your finish. Of course, not knowing what type of finish you are using, the safest advice might be to just read and follow the manufacturer's preparation and application instructions.
Signature Honey Teak, a catalyzed acrylic urethane enamel - You clean and brighten first with a two part teak cleaner, let it dry, lightly sand, then wipe off the dust (and any oil newly exposed by the sanding) with denatured alcohol, and finally, tack rag it just before applying your finish. Of course, not knowing what type of finish you are using, the safest advice might be to just read and follow the manufacturer's preparation and application instructions.
The Best Cleaner ......................................
........... for removing the surface oil from teak came from a friend who has has a woodwork finishing shop. He finishes high end custom teak cabinetry amongst other woods and recommended using lacquer thinner to remove all surface oils. I have used this solvent on all of my exterior teak (which ain't much on a 1999 H310) prior to applying ten coats of System Three clear epoxy (and three coats of varnish for UV protection). The transom seat slats and companionway cover handle still look like they're floating in clear plastic after two years. Best regards, s/v Island Hunter
........... for removing the surface oil from teak came from a friend who has has a woodwork finishing shop. He finishes high end custom teak cabinetry amongst other woods and recommended using lacquer thinner to remove all surface oils. I have used this solvent on all of my exterior teak (which ain't much on a 1999 H310) prior to applying ten coats of System Three clear epoxy (and three coats of varnish for UV protection). The transom seat slats and companionway cover handle still look like they're floating in clear plastic after two years. Best regards, s/v Island Hunter
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