I am planning to replace the waste lines in my 1985 H31. As far as I can tell the existing lines are original. There is one long black rubber line that goes from the head to the tank. Another black rubber line goes from the tank to a PVC Tee. After the Tee the line splits with one side going to the deck pump out and the other side going to the input of what looks like a manual pump device. This device is thru bolted to the inside wall near the square access door under the V berth. The output of the pump is looped before connecting to a thru hull. After the Tee the black rubber lines are no longer used in favor of whitish corrugated hose similar to what is used on the sink drains. So this white hose connects from the Tee to the deck and from the Tee to the pump and thru hull. Finally there is also a smaller, white, corrugated vent line.
I have read through Patrick Lombard’s excellent photo forum posting on how to do this with common PVC pipe. It spite of this looking more difficult to install, it seems that not only is this cheaper, but it is a more permanent solution to the problem. I have read others accounts of the permeation problem returning after only a few years, even with decent replacement hose. I have not heard of anyone having problems with rigid PVC.
I have a few questions.
Was the use of the corrugated hose a poor choice considering the permeation problem? Does anyone know what it really is? Could it be flexible PVC, or what they commonly call Spaflex today? Does this 1985 vintage stuff permeate (I assume it does, else people would be using it used it instead of the expensive sanitary hose). Does modern Spaflex permeate?
I think this white corrugated hose does need to be changed, especially the length that goes up to the deck pump out. Part of this length sits at the low point of the tank (connected to the Tee) and is probably in contact with standing waste all the time. Replacing this with rigid PVC may not be easy to do and I may need to use some sort of flexible sanitary hose, at least for the portion of the run beyond the pump. My pro-plumber nephew who will be doing the job with me suggested Spaflex. Has anyone ever done this? Any other suggestions?
I have read how it is difficult to change out the deck fitting and/or get at the connection between the deck fitting and the discharge line. My plan is to free the deck fitting and hope to tilt it enough to get the end of a Dremel tool on the hose clamps. Once the clamps are cut with the Dremel, I plan to pull the fitting up, remove it, and replace it. Prior to reassembly, I would use the Dremel tool to cut a larger hole that would allow a hose clamp to clear. Yes? No? Suggestions?
Speaking of that pump, what exactly is that device I am looking at. I realize it is for manual discharge, but is it a simple valve, a pump, a hand driven macerator? I’ve never used it. I sail on the Great Lakes where such overboard discharge is strictly illegal. Is there any advantage to keeping this device at all? If I keep it, is there any special locking device I need to install on it to make it legal? (I thought I once read there was). Suppose I do retain it (and that assumes it is even working after 20+ years). I would need more flexible hose to reproduce the loop prior to attachment of the thru hull. What is that loop for? I don’t see a need for it. I believe the thru hull is actually just above the water line and an inline valve should work fine to prevent lake water from back flowing into the holding tank.
Finally, what about the vent line. Is there any kind of flapper valve included in it? My guess is “no” since the waste tank discharge is on the bottom of the tank and a flapper would not be necessary to get a good vacuum as long as there is something in the tank. Does this hose permeate as well? What have others used for replacement?
Thanks in advance for your responses. I would really appreciate all the guidance I can get from those that are in the know.
I have read through Patrick Lombard’s excellent photo forum posting on how to do this with common PVC pipe. It spite of this looking more difficult to install, it seems that not only is this cheaper, but it is a more permanent solution to the problem. I have read others accounts of the permeation problem returning after only a few years, even with decent replacement hose. I have not heard of anyone having problems with rigid PVC.
I have a few questions.
Was the use of the corrugated hose a poor choice considering the permeation problem? Does anyone know what it really is? Could it be flexible PVC, or what they commonly call Spaflex today? Does this 1985 vintage stuff permeate (I assume it does, else people would be using it used it instead of the expensive sanitary hose). Does modern Spaflex permeate?
I think this white corrugated hose does need to be changed, especially the length that goes up to the deck pump out. Part of this length sits at the low point of the tank (connected to the Tee) and is probably in contact with standing waste all the time. Replacing this with rigid PVC may not be easy to do and I may need to use some sort of flexible sanitary hose, at least for the portion of the run beyond the pump. My pro-plumber nephew who will be doing the job with me suggested Spaflex. Has anyone ever done this? Any other suggestions?
I have read how it is difficult to change out the deck fitting and/or get at the connection between the deck fitting and the discharge line. My plan is to free the deck fitting and hope to tilt it enough to get the end of a Dremel tool on the hose clamps. Once the clamps are cut with the Dremel, I plan to pull the fitting up, remove it, and replace it. Prior to reassembly, I would use the Dremel tool to cut a larger hole that would allow a hose clamp to clear. Yes? No? Suggestions?
Speaking of that pump, what exactly is that device I am looking at. I realize it is for manual discharge, but is it a simple valve, a pump, a hand driven macerator? I’ve never used it. I sail on the Great Lakes where such overboard discharge is strictly illegal. Is there any advantage to keeping this device at all? If I keep it, is there any special locking device I need to install on it to make it legal? (I thought I once read there was). Suppose I do retain it (and that assumes it is even working after 20+ years). I would need more flexible hose to reproduce the loop prior to attachment of the thru hull. What is that loop for? I don’t see a need for it. I believe the thru hull is actually just above the water line and an inline valve should work fine to prevent lake water from back flowing into the holding tank.
Finally, what about the vent line. Is there any kind of flapper valve included in it? My guess is “no” since the waste tank discharge is on the bottom of the tank and a flapper would not be necessary to get a good vacuum as long as there is something in the tank. Does this hose permeate as well? What have others used for replacement?
Thanks in advance for your responses. I would really appreciate all the guidance I can get from those that are in the know.