I am looking for feedback on sanding the hull of a H27 down to gelcoat, then applying a barrier coat and finishing with vc 17. Has anyone done this? How long did it take? Am I crazy for considering it? Should I just sand down and put regular bottom paint on? Thanks..
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D
Droop
DO NOT USE VC-17
Why, first off you don't race! Second, and more important, bottom paint does not adhere to VC-17 very good! Why would you use it? Do you race in a local club? You don't need the hassle of VC-17 for the 1/10 of a knot you'll get from the paint. VC-17 is for professional racers that get professional paint jobs.
Why, first off you don't race! Second, and more important, bottom paint does not adhere to VC-17 very good! Why would you use it? Do you race in a local club? You don't need the hassle of VC-17 for the 1/10 of a knot you'll get from the paint. VC-17 is for professional racers that get professional paint jobs.
D
Droop
Neil, one more thing
Don't sand down to gel coat unless you are going to barrier coat the hull with epoxy paint. It is just not required. If you going to sand I recommend buying 2 drywall sanding sponges from the local hardware store. All you need is a light sand to get to fresh paint. No more and 20 minutes a side. Don't damage the Gel coat! Then paint with good ablative bottom paint. This takes one day Or to take all the bottom paint off and barrier coat the hull: Use Peel away strips. That the easiest and safest way I know to get the old bottom paint off. Then at least five coats of epoxy paint. Then one coat of black ablative bottom paint, followed by two coats of blue (colors are your choice). You know it is time to paint the boat again when you see the base color. Take a week off work for this job! Good Luck!
Don't sand down to gel coat unless you are going to barrier coat the hull with epoxy paint. It is just not required. If you going to sand I recommend buying 2 drywall sanding sponges from the local hardware store. All you need is a light sand to get to fresh paint. No more and 20 minutes a side. Don't damage the Gel coat! Then paint with good ablative bottom paint. This takes one day Or to take all the bottom paint off and barrier coat the hull: Use Peel away strips. That the easiest and safest way I know to get the old bottom paint off. Then at least five coats of epoxy paint. Then one coat of black ablative bottom paint, followed by two coats of blue (colors are your choice). You know it is time to paint the boat again when you see the base color. Take a week off work for this job! Good Luck!
Its been done before
Go to the boat information section of this site then on to the Hunter 25.5 boat information page. You'll find a link to a 25.5 bottom job that documents the job. The author removes all the old paint, applies VC-tar and then VC-17. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73146032935&fno=17 I'm not sure that this combination is only for racers. My 25.5 had the same combo when I bought her. IIRC, VC-17 requires VC-tar. I applied Micron CSC over the VC-tar after I lightly saneded all the remaining VC-17 off. I wanted multi-season, multi-haul capability. I'm not sure VC-17 provides that. Another consideration for VC-17 is that you can't scrub the slime off of the bottom without removing the paint. Also, since you're in Chicago and sailing fresh water, consider a paint with anti-slime capabilities even if its the version of VC-17 with Biolux. Otherwise, you will need to haul, clean the slime, then re-apply move VC-17 (after some surface prep).
Go to the boat information section of this site then on to the Hunter 25.5 boat information page. You'll find a link to a 25.5 bottom job that documents the job. The author removes all the old paint, applies VC-tar and then VC-17. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73146032935&fno=17 I'm not sure that this combination is only for racers. My 25.5 had the same combo when I bought her. IIRC, VC-17 requires VC-tar. I applied Micron CSC over the VC-tar after I lightly saneded all the remaining VC-17 off. I wanted multi-season, multi-haul capability. I'm not sure VC-17 provides that. Another consideration for VC-17 is that you can't scrub the slime off of the bottom without removing the paint. Also, since you're in Chicago and sailing fresh water, consider a paint with anti-slime capabilities even if its the version of VC-17 with Biolux. Otherwise, you will need to haul, clean the slime, then re-apply move VC-17 (after some surface prep).
N
Neil
Excellent!
Excellent! I can't belive the info I have received in less than a couple of hours! Thanks!
Excellent! I can't belive the info I have received in less than a couple of hours! Thanks!
VC 17
If you plan to stay in fresh water forever it doesn't get any better than VC17. Once it's done your bottom maintenance will take about an hour per year. Nothing sticks to VC17 and that's a good thing. I've done several applications and prefer Interlux 2000 barrier coat over VC Tar. VC17 is not effective in salt water
If you plan to stay in fresh water forever it doesn't get any better than VC17. Once it's done your bottom maintenance will take about an hour per year. Nothing sticks to VC17 and that's a good thing. I've done several applications and prefer Interlux 2000 barrier coat over VC Tar. VC17 is not effective in salt water
talk to the interlux tech rep
when I did mine which included a keel job, 10 years ago, a trick to eliminate the sanding of the interlux 2000 barrier coat between coats was to watch the temp & time and apply the next coat after tacky but just before it hardens. The new coat will bond to the old coat as a chemical bond. Depending on temp plan on putting each coat on about 4-8 hours after the last. Times 4-5 coats, you will be there all day & night & into the next day. A weekend with lots of car headlights & work lights help. Its worth not sanding between coats. Best of luck, Paul
when I did mine which included a keel job, 10 years ago, a trick to eliminate the sanding of the interlux 2000 barrier coat between coats was to watch the temp & time and apply the next coat after tacky but just before it hardens. The new coat will bond to the old coat as a chemical bond. Depending on temp plan on putting each coat on about 4-8 hours after the last. Times 4-5 coats, you will be there all day & night & into the next day. A weekend with lots of car headlights & work lights help. Its worth not sanding between coats. Best of luck, Paul
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