Preferred Cutlass bearing makes

[Justin_NSA]

Argh! My bearing has too much play! My records show it was replaced by the PO in 2013. We don't run the engine all that much, Just in and out of our sail cove. I'm told that our watershed reservoir is pretty silty, so maybe it ate it up. I need to flush out my LasDrop shaft seal faces while I'm at it.

Do you all have a favorite brand of bearing? Does one type work better than others in 'fresh' water?

I've been researching DIY 'shaft in' bearing removal tools. I think I can fab one pretty easily.

 

[jssailem]

Because they are readily available.
JOHNSON-DURAMAX
Available in Brass SAE and Metric sizes. Also new to me is a non metallic product. No idea how the service life will be.

Your 13 years... that feels like a lifetime. At least for here, where we motor and sail multi-day cruises. With a fixed prop even sailing the prop will spin in the cutlass bearing.

My first replacement of a cutlass bearing was this year. That would be 7th year of ownership. Suspect the cutlass bearing was in the boat many more. When it came out it was too mangled to identify the previous manufacturer. Since my cutlass is in the stern of the keel, I had to cut the cutlass to remove it.

 

[Justin_NSA]

I saw that technique too. Wouldn't need the tool, but I'm wanting to avoid pulling the shaft. It means dropping the rudder, undoing the dripless seal, and uncoupling the tranny.

 

[jssailem]

If you have a strut, like I think you do, you can use a puller and not worry. You still will need to pull the prop so that you can slip the off the shaft and the new one back on.

 

[capta]

To be honest, I've never given it a thought. I go into a place and ask for the size I need. They come back with a box which I open to check that it is the right size, not manufacturer. Same with a yard. It is only when I got into odd ball sizes was there a need to go beyond what anybody had on hand.

 

[Tally Ho]

+1 for the Johnson-Duramax

I replaced mine about 9 years ago when I bought the boat (had to do something over the ling winter layup).

Greg

 

[Justin_NSA]

If you have a strut, like I think you do, you can use a puller and not worry. You still will need to pull the prop so that you can slip the off the shaft and the new one back on.

Yes. I contacted US rep for Gori, who makes prop. I have the installation instructions. I asked if they had any advice on removal. They came back pretty quick with instructions for me.

 

[Tally Ho]

Not sure if these help…but pulling my prop (my old 2-blade fixed prop) and pressing out the bearing with the tool set my bro-in-law fabricated for me.

I also have a few on my shaft removal and installation of my Volvo Penta shaft seal if those are of any interest.

Greg

 

[Dalliance]

I had my cutlass bearing replaced last spring. It was nine years old and it’s my understanding that nine or ten years is normal. Age is as much a factor as wear.

I lacked tools and time for the job. Can’t recall the brand, but the bearing was $80 and the yard charged a flat rate of $400 for labor. It seemed a bit pricey until I looked at the cost of the specialized tools I wouldn’t need again for a decade.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Going out to measure my old bearing today. You convince me on JOHNSON-DURAMAX . I think rather than fab a tool and press it out, I'm going to pull the shaft and cut it out like John showed. My LasDrop Gen II dripless seal is 4 years old now. I should check it anyway. We have a silty reservoir. The Buck Algonquin split coupler I installed when I did the seal should make the task easier. Thanks for your comments!

 

[Justin_NSA]

Just some addition info in case anyone is following my project. I contacted LasDrop, makers of my dripless seal. Since I was having to remove it, I thought I would ask if there is any maintenance I need to do. I know folks with other dripless systems occasionally need to "burp" them, and sometimes replace the bellows. My rep suggested I order this rod seal kit. Comes with seals and some refacing sandpaper. $25 before shipping. Now I need to dig a hole to drop the rudder and begin disassembly.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Another interesting tidbit. I asked if I shouldn't use PYI's retention collar Shaft Retention Collar
LasDrop's response was "It’s not necessary. They do that because they’re using set screws (they damage the shaft). Set screws can only be used once and then need to be replaced. They also require thread glue. The Lasdrop pressure housing is made from a nylon material and grips the shaft very well."

 

[Justin_NSA]

I was opening up the cockpit sole panel to unbolt the rudder. The space below the panel is full of leaves, muck and mud nests! Why would Hunter put these large slots in the panel? There is no where for water and debris to drain out. That downturned panel fits flush to the walkthru transom. What's the thinking here?
While I have the panel home, I'm contemplating some sort of stainless or plastic mesh epoxied to the underside to keep the big stuff out of the space underneath. Any thoughts on this?
The panel slots are right behind the pedestal. The steering quadrant is under that access panel. It's where the emergency tiller goes thru. The underside has flat rims around the slots I might be able to epoxy to.