Pre-heat Solenoid

claudiomty · May 4, 2004

Frank
The by bar cheapest and most easily available solenoid is that of most any ford vehicle. I prefer the late 70's early 80's starter solenoid myself. It has a Batt post, a starter post, and trips with a single wire. It has 2 steel mounting ears ans since it needs a ground there you can put one under any bolt or nut on the engine or transmission. They are under $15 US most places and the worlds most common solenoid. I have them all over my VW diesels, My GM diesels etc whenever my glow relay goes. They are rated at 1000 amp's so you and your grandchildren will be trying to wear it out with that little glow plug load. ope this helps
Claude

claudiomty · May 4, 2004

Hi
Well thats the pits, march back in, tell them you have a 1979 ford pickup truck with a 5.0 engine and you want a solenoid. The ford manual lists the same part number from 1972 - 1997. The current used to pull the solenoid closed is only .4 amps. And the solenoid is rated to pass 1000+ amps, that means between 1 and 100 glowplugs is within it's tolerence. The same solenoid that I use on my VW diesel for the starter, is what I also use for the plugs, and also have installed on a 318hp Detroit Diesel starter and it spins it right along, for 14 years now.Claude

claudiomty · May 5, 2004

Frank
I was just in the garage looking at a spare solenoid, on the shelf for 3 years now. Where do I send it to?

A box smaller than my fist can't cost much, and that doesnt matter anyway, I may need a favor when in EU this fall.

Claude

claudiomty · May 6, 2004

It's on the way. Sent it via plane, boat would take forever.

Good luck!Claude

mocap1 · May 7, 2004

I have used that solenoid for all kinds of things. The voltage regulator/starter relay on my '69 Vega with a starter/generator on the O22 went out, and a replacement was about $500. I substituted a $16 Ford starter solenoid and $58 VW regulator. Have also used it in a weird circuit to provide 24 volts for starting in a power boat from 12 volt batteries. I am certain it will work fine in your application.

If you are really dealing with only 10 amps, you could use a momentary push-button switch. Most of those are rated at more than that, and have the rating stamped on them. You can ge one at most hardware stores.

Mort

northcoast3 · May 15, 2014

Hello, I have just picked up a '71 Albin Vega 27 with an Albin O22 Combi that needs a little TLC. I just replaced the spark plugs and points, but throughout the time I've been trying to start this thing, the solenoid on the relay (part number 46571 according to the book) just keeps chattering and sometimes working. It is beat to s#!t, held together with corrosion and bubblegum, and in need of replacement. I know some other part(s) out there could work, but hating electricity the way I do and constantly foundering for solutions to these kinds of dilemmas, any help from your lessons learned on the old Ford / VW parts used would be a tremondously helpful assist! I wish this was the last of my worries!! When I turn on the main switch, then the engine compartment blower, the blower sometimes slows down when I turn the key switch on. If I then hit the start button, sometimes it turns and sometimes it seems as though all the cranking power is just vanished, which makes me think "short". I tried to trace a short back from the key switch but just led myself again back to the relay / solenoids. That thing is so ugly, I am hoping that when I replace it, marvelous things will happen such as something other than intermittently starting. Ug! Any help or pointers to the right thrread also would be helpful!

bhofler · May 15, 2014

I used to have an 022 engine in my albin years ago. I found out that all the ignition parts VW about 1968 - 1972 or thereabouts. Try one of those solenoids perhaps. I did replace the generator also at one point. Thats all I know.Sent from Brian's iPad

tiempo2010 · May 16, 2014

Sounds like either corroded connections, a bad battery, or both.

tim_klynn · May 16, 2014

Could be a bad battery, corroded terminals. Try swapping in a known good battery ( like the one from your car). Tim

dougpol1 · May 16, 2014

I would take the solenoid off and if you can find a starter
generator shop take it to them and they can test it for you. I would
also take the starter Generator off and take it as well. There are
a lot of these shops in farm country where they rebuild starters and
generators for farm tractors. Almost every farmer has his favorite
shop. In all likelyhood the starter needs new brushes anyway after
so many years. Those guys are pretty innovative and may well install
brushes from some motor cycle make or maybe a John Deer tractor.
All those old small engines have about the same electricals in them
the world over. I had one of those shops rebuild the starter
generator for my Vega's Volvo. I bought a mechanical starter
selenoid from Advanced auto parts. All their stuff is made in china
so maybe not the best so I bought a second one to keep in my spare
parts. The good thing about them is if they stop working it is
usually because the contacts inside are burned. You just take the
cover off and use a feeler gauge to see what the gap setting is,
turn of the power first and put a small thin fine file between the
points and push them closed with your finger onto the file. Pull it
back and forth a couple times and you have clean contacts again.
The gap is adjustable so reset the gap to the feeler gauge as
original. Bingo you are back in business. You may have to do this
once every five years or so. The good news is the newer solid state
stuff will burn out if you are fooling around with wiring and short
something out the old mechanical solenoids won't, they are almost
bullet proof.
My old Volvo engine has a generic mechanical selenoid the starter
generator has a mechanical voltage regulator for an International
Farm-all tractor and the original solid state regulator for the
alternator. IF that gives up I won,t hesitate to put a mechanical
regular on it. The generator shops out in farm country are often
absolute geniuses when it comes th keep engines running after all
there are thousands of them around for them to work on out there and
many of them are of the same vintage as your engine. Thes old
mechanicl parts are cheap. I think I paid less than $25.00 for the
starter selenoids and I paid $60 or $80.00 for the voltage regulator
which was a high price. I would guess Albin parts are very
expensive. Volvo parts sure are so my solution is to use something
else. Seems to me the Volvoseleinoid and regulator combination runs
about $800.00 or something like that. Thats because if you order one
they make one instead of taking one off the shelf that was made with
a million others. High production makes higher quality and cheaper
prices.

-- Doug Pollard Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225 KK4YGO

On 05/16/2014 08:29 AM, Tim
tim_klynn@... [AlbinVega] wrote:

dougpol1 · May 16, 2014

Also I am very surprised that there is a preheater in a Gasoline
engine. They are often in diesels but I don't think I ever heard of
one in a Gasoline engine. Maybe in the far north ??
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO

On 05/16/2014 04:16 AM, Brian Stannard
brianstannard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:

northcoast3 · May 16, 2014

Thanks all for your help. I posted to an old thread (sorry, I'm new to the group and didn't mean to), so I wasn't having any pre-heat solenoid issues but rather have the gas engine, the O22. At first I replaced the battery terminals and thought I had found the solution. Then, it happened again. I used a good battery. I also filed the contacts on the solenoid right off the bat to at least make contact. I get intermittent starting. There appears to be a mechanical voltage regulator next to the starter solenoid which has quite a few leads to it which makes it annoying to troubleshoot. The voltage regulator doesn't appear to move at all so I suspect that is probably shorting out somehow. I should probably find some farm country parts that will
substitute for both. Perhaps I'll yank it out of the boat tomorrow and head down to my local farm place to get some physical parts. I just didn't want to use the wrong parts and ruin the expensive starter / dynamo unit somehow which looks to have been replaced at some point and looks rather clean. Strange how the relay unit appears way too original whilst the starter newer. Probably someone just needed the electrical component awhile ago. I'm not even sure all of this is worthwhile as relying on such an old engine seems silly when I could mount a bracket on the back and install my outboard I have sitting here. It's only 8hp, but hey, it is beginning to sound like my best option and also would serve as a backup if I eventually get the Albin O22 running. Anyone else use an outboard as a backup motor? On Friday, May 16, 2014 9:48 AM, "Douglas Pollard dougpol2@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com wrote:

Also I am very surprised that there is a preheater in a Gasoline
engine. They are often in diesels but I don't think I ever heard of
one in a Gasoline engine. Maybe in the far north ??
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO

On 05/16/2014 04:16 AM, Brian Stannard
brianstannard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:

Pre-heat Solenoid

imbissfrank

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claudiomty

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claudiomty

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mocap1

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northcoast3

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bhofler

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tim_klynn

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dougpol1

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northcoast3

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