On Sept. 17th I crossed Lake Ontario from the north shore to the south and return in near-gale conditions. Sustained winds were in the mid 30 knot range and there were short steep waves that looked like about 3 meters at times. With my single non-sailor crew, the boat handled the conditions extremely well. Returning well after dark, we quickly put the boat to bed, and I went home feeling a little proud of my boat and myself. We were almost the only boat visible on the lake that day. Due to work and family pressures I was unable to return to the boat until yesterday. What I found was sobering if not scary. On the '89 H30G, and I believe on the 90-94 30T which has the same hull, the thru-hull transducers for boat speed and depth are mounted in front of the keel, which is just behind the V-berth inside. The hull liner has an access opening over this area, which is covered by a solid 1/2" teak plate. This board also serves as a step up to the V-berth. The clearance between the inside of the hull and the bottom of this plate is on the order of 3-1/2 to 4". (I haven't measured this, so this is just an estimate.) My boat has a B&G multifunction instrument, and the depth transducer is almost as tall as the clearance. What I found on inspection yesterday is that the 1/2" solid teak board covering the transducers was pushed up and split right in half. It gave the appearance of having been hit by a hammer blow, and the screws were ripped right out of the fiberglass. This could only have been caused by flexing between the hull and the liner. The plastic transducer mounted in its plastic thru-hull had come into forceful contact with the board and split it right into two pieces! While the boat did take quite a pounding, this should not have happened. The scary part is, if the plastic thru hull had broken instead of the teak board, there could have been a 1-3/4" hole open to the lake. This water flow would have overwhelmed my (typical) anemic electric bilge pump and my Whale Gusher manual pump, and, hours from shore, the boat could have sunk! (Yes, I do carry a set of wooden plugs to ram into holes, but it still would have been pretty unpleasant facing that challenge under those conditions. If the thru-hull had merely cracked, the boat could have sunk later at the dock in the 3 weeks I was away.) I don't know how serious this sounds to other owners, but I suggest you check the clearance between the tops of your transducers and the cover board before your next heavy-weather outing. Two solutions come to mind. 1. Attach the cover with a piano type hinge and allow it to move up under force from below, and, 2. raise the cover board higher with a substantial shim plate and/or cut away some of its bottom to increase the clearance. If anyone out there has an idea about how much movement there can be between the hull and liner in this area, I would be interested in your comments. Thanks, Bob England
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Interesting
I bought a 89 h30 in July and that teak plat had a rusted hinge on the foreward edge and the screws were loose making the plate essentially completely loose. My instumentation at this through hull is only the speed indicator so it's height doesn't appear to be enough to interfere witht the plate but I will measure it never the less. Does sound like Neptune was smiling on you?
I bought a 89 h30 in July and that teak plat had a rusted hinge on the foreward edge and the screws were loose making the plate essentially completely loose. My instumentation at this through hull is only the speed indicator so it's height doesn't appear to be enough to interfere witht the plate but I will measure it never the less. Does sound like Neptune was smiling on you?
Best insurance
I agree with you, the boat should not flex that much. The clearance should be checked but most of all...... wooden plugs under the settee or in a hidden locker are not good with that kind of a hole. For those of you who have not done the following, It is recommended. Find the propper wooden plug for every single thru-hull (transducers, drains, inlets, etc)and drill a hole through the top (thickest part) of the plug. Then using nylon ties, galvy or stainless wire wire then to the thru-hull or in the imediate area. Keep a rubber mallet in an area very accessable that everyone knows about. Can you imaging being in the conditions Bob was in, without helpful crew, trying to locate and pound in the correct plug to keep from losing his boat and possibly his life? Sermon over. Happy sailing
I agree with you, the boat should not flex that much. The clearance should be checked but most of all...... wooden plugs under the settee or in a hidden locker are not good with that kind of a hole. For those of you who have not done the following, It is recommended. Find the propper wooden plug for every single thru-hull (transducers, drains, inlets, etc)and drill a hole through the top (thickest part) of the plug. Then using nylon ties, galvy or stainless wire wire then to the thru-hull or in the imediate area. Keep a rubber mallet in an area very accessable that everyone knows about. Can you imaging being in the conditions Bob was in, without helpful crew, trying to locate and pound in the correct plug to keep from losing his boat and possibly his life? Sermon over. Happy sailing
Check for stress cracks this fall
Thanks for the "heads up". You should check the fore foot of your hull during winter lay-up. There may be some stress cracks if the hull was oil-canning. Is the fore foot flat on the H30? It is on my `83 H31, which makes for a faster boat, but a slammer in rough seas.
Thanks for the "heads up". You should check the fore foot of your hull during winter lay-up. There may be some stress cracks if the hull was oil-canning. Is the fore foot flat on the H30? It is on my `83 H31, which makes for a faster boat, but a slammer in rough seas.
Another Possibility, Bob?
When I first read that, I assumed the damage had been caused by repeated flexing. Could it have been one blow? Once, I had a 26' plywood/fiberglass sloop that was hard chined and pounded pretty good. Once, after a SoCal storm had taken out some piers and pushed lots of debris into the bay, I came off a steep wave and came down so hard I thought I hit something. Split the keel seam. Upon haul, I found an impact area and assume I hit a piece of the old pier, floating submerged or nearly so. There was a lot of stuff out there. On the other hand, the boat was pounding pretty good all day. Take a look when you haul. FYI: that same day, we happened on a seal sunning himself on a large couch floating about a mile and a half offshore...... Good luck, Rick D.
When I first read that, I assumed the damage had been caused by repeated flexing. Could it have been one blow? Once, I had a 26' plywood/fiberglass sloop that was hard chined and pounded pretty good. Once, after a SoCal storm had taken out some piers and pushed lots of debris into the bay, I came off a steep wave and came down so hard I thought I hit something. Split the keel seam. Upon haul, I found an impact area and assume I hit a piece of the old pier, floating submerged or nearly so. There was a lot of stuff out there. On the other hand, the boat was pounding pretty good all day. Take a look when you haul. FYI: that same day, we happened on a seal sunning himself on a large couch floating about a mile and a half offshore...... Good luck, Rick D.
A possibility
Rick, That could be. The boat is being hauled for the winter in about two weeks. I'll take a careful look at the hull. Thanks, Bob.
Rick, That could be. The boat is being hauled for the winter in about two weeks. I'll take a careful look at the hull. Thanks, Bob.
Check this too
I was motoring is similar winds with a very choppy sea straight on the bow, no sails on the boat since we were bringing it down Lake St Clair for the start of the season. I assume the ring cotter pin at the top of the forstay distorted due to the flexing and worked its way out. I'll skip the rest but check it it you have a ring cotter.
I was motoring is similar winds with a very choppy sea straight on the bow, no sails on the boat since we were bringing it down Lake St Clair for the start of the season. I assume the ring cotter pin at the top of the forstay distorted due to the flexing and worked its way out. I'll skip the rest but check it it you have a ring cotter.
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