Last winter was my first winterization for my Oday 30 and all went well except I think I may have a problem with the Raritan water heater. I couldn't drain all the water out before winter and ended up putting 6 gallons of the non-toxic antifreeze in the water system and ran that through cold and hot taps for a while. I ran the hot for quite some time in hopes of diluting the water that I knew was in there. Anyway, no leaks on the outside of the system and system holds pressure fine. There is a smell when running the faucets though that's got me wondering. First I thought it may be the non-toxic antifreeze which should be fine and should continue to get better I would imagine. But, now I'm wondering if there could be a leak in the heater's heat exchanger which is letting engine coolant into the fresh water which wouldn't be good for for the sake of the engine nor for the crew who use this water for everything but drinking. I've yet to take a look at the engine coolant level. Would this level go down if it was in fact leaking like I suggest? Has anyone else come across anything like this? I'm curious to hear what you all think. Thanks!
Possible Coolant leak in Water Heater heat exchanger
- Thread starter Dean P
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Na, it is ok
The level would go down if there is a leak, but I don't think so. What does it smell like? Anti-freese? What does anti-freese smell like? More than likely you have bacticeria growing in the hot water. Peggy can help you pick out a water treatment product. I was using some fresh water treatment stuff that clogged all the filters screens.
The level would go down if there is a leak, but I don't think so. What does it smell like? Anti-freese? What does anti-freese smell like? More than likely you have bacticeria growing in the hot water. Peggy can help you pick out a water treatment product. I was using some fresh water treatment stuff that clogged all the filters screens.
Should be OK
You should be OK if as Jim mentioned, your coolant level is not decreasing. The problem with running the non-toxic pink stuff through your hot water heater is that your system is not serial ie. first in - first out. Rather your water will continue to have the smell and taste of the non-toxic anti freeze for quite some time because you are only diluting it as you use hot water, unless you completely drain - flush - drain your hot water tank. Next year maybe think about isolating the water heater from your anti freeze flush of the water lines and just drain the hot water tank of water for the winter. Ralph
You should be OK if as Jim mentioned, your coolant level is not decreasing. The problem with running the non-toxic pink stuff through your hot water heater is that your system is not serial ie. first in - first out. Rather your water will continue to have the smell and taste of the non-toxic anti freeze for quite some time because you are only diluting it as you use hot water, unless you completely drain - flush - drain your hot water tank. Next year maybe think about isolating the water heater from your anti freeze flush of the water lines and just drain the hot water tank of water for the winter. Ralph
Your Coolant level will not go down
If you have a leak between your water heater and your engine coolant your water heater will act just like a recovery system. When the engine heats up the coolant expands, and will be forced into the water tank. When the engine cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks water back in, so the level stays the same. The coolant should gradually get diluted but it will be gradual. I can't tell you if the taste is left over from your use of the non toxic antifreeze you used, or from the toxic coolant in the engine. If there is a question in your mind, you should get your hot water tank pressure checked, and this may be done by a radiator shop (unless some else has a better idea). Good luck Joe S
If you have a leak between your water heater and your engine coolant your water heater will act just like a recovery system. When the engine heats up the coolant expands, and will be forced into the water tank. When the engine cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks water back in, so the level stays the same. The coolant should gradually get diluted but it will be gradual. I can't tell you if the taste is left over from your use of the non toxic antifreeze you used, or from the toxic coolant in the engine. If there is a question in your mind, you should get your hot water tank pressure checked, and this may be done by a radiator shop (unless some else has a better idea). Good luck Joe S
Thinking out loud
Not to start an argument, especially since I am just "thinking out loud", if I may? I would think that if you had a leak, the coolant level would still go down. The coolant system is pressurized when heated (Ever open your radiator cap on a hot car? ) I would think this pressure would push more coolant out of the system, then the vacuum of cooling liquid would put back into the system. A simple way to pressure check the system yourself, is setup a small compressor, run a hose from the compressor to one of the coolant ports on the tank, clamp it on, now plug the other coolant port on the tank. Put about 10 lbs pressure into the system, make sure your plug and hose are not leaking at the ports using soapy water. Now watch the gauge on the compressor. If after 10-15 minutes the pressure is gone, you have a leak. Ralph
Not to start an argument, especially since I am just "thinking out loud", if I may? I would think that if you had a leak, the coolant level would still go down. The coolant system is pressurized when heated (Ever open your radiator cap on a hot car? ) I would think this pressure would push more coolant out of the system, then the vacuum of cooling liquid would put back into the system. A simple way to pressure check the system yourself, is setup a small compressor, run a hose from the compressor to one of the coolant ports on the tank, clamp it on, now plug the other coolant port on the tank. Put about 10 lbs pressure into the system, make sure your plug and hose are not leaking at the ports using soapy water. Now watch the gauge on the compressor. If after 10-15 minutes the pressure is gone, you have a leak. Ralph
Flush & Claen Water tank/system
Dean, You could try what I do every spring at recommishoning of the plumbing system. I compleately drain the tank and system by turning on the water pump and opening all fawcets until it is just sputtering water/antifreeze and air. I then add some more water to the tank (3 or 4 gallons) and drain that. I then fill the tank half way and add 1/2 gallon of AquaClean (at the rate of 1 gallon for 100 gallons of water tank capacity)(got it at W.M.) to the tank and then complete the tank fill. Open all fawcets and run til you see 'foany stuff' coming out and shut off fawcets. This make sure the treatment is through out the whole system. Let it sit for 45 min to 1 hour. Then completely drain thru all fawcets. Add a full takk of water and completely drain thru all fawcets to flush out the whole system. You can now fill the tank for use and put in some AquaTabs (1 for each 5 gallons of capacity. The water system should now be fine to use with out any odors. You could actually drink from it if needed.
Dean, You could try what I do every spring at recommishoning of the plumbing system. I compleately drain the tank and system by turning on the water pump and opening all fawcets until it is just sputtering water/antifreeze and air. I then add some more water to the tank (3 or 4 gallons) and drain that. I then fill the tank half way and add 1/2 gallon of AquaClean (at the rate of 1 gallon for 100 gallons of water tank capacity)(got it at W.M.) to the tank and then complete the tank fill. Open all fawcets and run til you see 'foany stuff' coming out and shut off fawcets. This make sure the treatment is through out the whole system. Let it sit for 45 min to 1 hour. Then completely drain thru all fawcets. Add a full takk of water and completely drain thru all fawcets to flush out the whole system. You can now fill the tank for use and put in some AquaTabs (1 for each 5 gallons of capacity. The water system should now be fine to use with out any odors. You could actually drink from it if needed.
water heater
I had a leak in my water heater when i first bought the boat. The PO hadn't drained the water heater and the tank froze and split. I didn't know what the problem was until i took the water heater out and took it apart. The heater consists of a metal cube outer cover filled with installation around an oval tank. The coolant circulating from the engine goes through a closed piping system inside the tank. I can't imagine how that piping system could break. It doesn't move, it stays filled with engine coolant. and it is never exposed to the elements. Like most of the others, I think you are getting residual winterization stuff in the water. To avoid what you are experiencing, I drain the water heater and disconnect it from the system. I then use a small compressor to blow water out of all the lines and never use any antifreeze.
I had a leak in my water heater when i first bought the boat. The PO hadn't drained the water heater and the tank froze and split. I didn't know what the problem was until i took the water heater out and took it apart. The heater consists of a metal cube outer cover filled with installation around an oval tank. The coolant circulating from the engine goes through a closed piping system inside the tank. I can't imagine how that piping system could break. It doesn't move, it stays filled with engine coolant. and it is never exposed to the elements. Like most of the others, I think you are getting residual winterization stuff in the water. To avoid what you are experiencing, I drain the water heater and disconnect it from the system. I then use a small compressor to blow water out of all the lines and never use any antifreeze.
Just the other day Gary W asked about
cleaning water systems, and I suggested checking the world "recommission" in the archives. Here it is for you: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=20&sku=2007152104529.41&id=475807&ptl=#2007152143735.89 Do this and if you still have taste issues, you do have a problem.
cleaning water systems, and I suggested checking the world "recommission" in the archives. Here it is for you: http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=20&sku=2007152104529.41&id=475807&ptl=#2007152143735.89 Do this and if you still have taste issues, you do have a problem.
Ralph, Think some more
The coolant system is a closed system. For the coolant level to go down, you have to let air into the system. If the leak were in a hose or a radiator, like in your car, you would push out coolant and suck air back in. If the leak is in the water tank where the coolant is surrounded by water only water can be sucked back. So the coolant level stays the same. This is the same principle as a recovery system on a car. No argument just fact. Have fun Joe S
The coolant system is a closed system. For the coolant level to go down, you have to let air into the system. If the leak were in a hose or a radiator, like in your car, you would push out coolant and suck air back in. If the leak is in the water tank where the coolant is surrounded by water only water can be sucked back. So the coolant level stays the same. This is the same principle as a recovery system on a car. No argument just fact. Have fun Joe S
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