Over the years, myself and fellow 376 owners have been frustrated by the inability to get a normal amount of rode to fall into the Chain locker on 376's due to a design flaw which leaves less than enough room for the corect drop of the rode. What I'm contemplating is a transverse bridge of either SS steel or wood across the anchor well, fiting a lewmar 1000 pro series windlass which would than deposit the rode into he anchor well rather than the chain locker. This raises questions as to thickness of the cross member? What kind of wood to use regarding stength etc. Also access to the below deck side of the bolts may be a problem in the V-berth may be an issue. I'd appreciate any insight or caveats regarding my musings. Thank you.
- Status
Not an issue for me anymore
The first couple of times I used my anchor I had to use a pole to push the rode down the tube, but not anymore. I think the reason why is because the rode is less flexible now because it's been used a lot, so it doesn't get bunched up. One thing that definately helped me was taking the pole and pushing it all the way down into the well and spreading the rode out in the well. As you drop the rode down into the well, it tends to build up into a pile right under the tube. In otherwords, I don't think any modification is necessary.
The first couple of times I used my anchor I had to use a pole to push the rode down the tube, but not anymore. I think the reason why is because the rode is less flexible now because it's been used a lot, so it doesn't get bunched up. One thing that definately helped me was taking the pole and pushing it all the way down into the well and spreading the rode out in the well. As you drop the rode down into the well, it tends to build up into a pile right under the tube. In otherwords, I don't think any modification is necessary.
Still Problem
Thanks Franklin. Your're a lucky guy. I've tried 3 sranded and plait but after 100 ft we have to get up in the v berth to reposition the rode. I usually anchor in 20' of water and always have to let outover 100' of rode. The pile under the tube is what I'm trying to avoid. Stiffer rode hasn't help me but I'm happy for you. Otherwise I love our 376
Thanks Franklin. Your're a lucky guy. I've tried 3 sranded and plait but after 100 ft we have to get up in the v berth to reposition the rode. I usually anchor in 20' of water and always have to let outover 100' of rode. The pile under the tube is what I'm trying to avoid. Stiffer rode hasn't help me but I'm happy for you. Otherwise I love our 376
Pile under tube
I drop 100' just about every time (I usually use a 10:1 ratio for safety). Just take your boat hook and slide the handle down the tube and move the rode around. No more pile. A lot easier then tearing the bow apart. At least try it before you make a decision. I have a 300' (3/8" or 1/2"...can't remember) rode in the well and after moving the pile around, seems there's room for another 100'.
I drop 100' just about every time (I usually use a 10:1 ratio for safety). Just take your boat hook and slide the handle down the tube and move the rode around. No more pile. A lot easier then tearing the bow apart. At least try it before you make a decision. I have a 300' (3/8" or 1/2"...can't remember) rode in the well and after moving the pile around, seems there's room for another 100'.
Never Mind
After measuring at the boat this weekend, there's nothing to be gained by doing it my way, not enough of a drop for the rode. Will just continue to move the pile around and be content. I'll save some time and some money by leaving it alone.
After measuring at the boat this weekend, there's nothing to be gained by doing it my way, not enough of a drop for the rode. Will just continue to move the pile around and be content. I'll save some time and some money by leaving it alone.
Has anyone considered more chain?
I have the same issues on my 376. I'm considering more chain hoping the weight will help it thru the hawspipe.
I have the same issues on my 376. I'm considering more chain hoping the weight will help it thru the hawspipe.
added more chain
,40 feet,and it didn't improve, can't get all of the chain into the locker,and yes I use a rod to push things around. It's been awhile since I've looked at the locker but as I remember there is a lower area below the upper chamber that with a proper transition of rode it should hold all of just about any amount.
,40 feet,and it didn't improve, can't get all of the chain into the locker,and yes I use a rod to push things around. It's been awhile since I've looked at the locker but as I remember there is a lower area below the upper chamber that with a proper transition of rode it should hold all of just about any amount.
Considered more chain
Considered more chain but the people at Maxwell advised against it as too much chain wouild cause excessive wear on preasure arm of their freedom rc-800 windlass. They suggested I try a plait rode rather than 3 stand which I did. Some improvement and I've led the hawspipe into the lower chamber but the fall of the rode is too far forward to accomadate the rode without repositioning the pile
Considered more chain but the people at Maxwell advised against it as too much chain wouild cause excessive wear on preasure arm of their freedom rc-800 windlass. They suggested I try a plait rode rather than 3 stand which I did. Some improvement and I've led the hawspipe into the lower chamber but the fall of the rode is too far forward to accomadate the rode without repositioning the pile
Modify the Hawsepipe
There are some posts in the archives about how to re-run the hawse pipe so that it will drop the rode into the center of the anchor locker instead of the "V" of the bow. This solves the problem. I simplified the install a bit by buying waste pipe (4" diameter) from Home Depot with two 30 degree pipe angles. Pull out the vertical board in the front of the v-berth and then fit the new hawsepipe in. You will have a vertical straight piece from the deck to the first angle piece, another straight piece heading aft through where the board was to the second angle resting on top of the anchor locker inspection hatch in the v-berth. Mark where the angle piece rests on the inspection/access hatch in the v-berth and cut a 4" hole there. Then insert one very short straight piece vertically in the 2nd angle through the new hole. This short vertical piece will go in the hole you just cut and hold the new hawsepipe in place without any glue, nails etc... You want it inserted into the inspection hatch, not glued, so you can still lift the hatch when all done. Not anchoring it to the hatch leaves enough room to pick up the hatch and slide it to the side when you need to reach into the anchor locker (not very often anymore). Finally the hard part. Cut the vertical board (plywood and white cover) from the front of the v-berth horizontally aligned with the center of the middle straight piece of pipe. Then cut out the two complex semi-circles (actually half ovals). Insert the wood above and below, add some teak trim over the cuts and you are done. The only significant change from the previous posts in the archives (with photos) is that instead of kerfing (sp?) a straight pipe to get it to bend at the right angles, I used the 30 degree angle pieces. 100' or more of chain is no longer an issue since it drops into the center of the anchor locker. I don't normally keep that much weight in the bow, but can when planning a trip where I know I will need it. The only caution left is to make sure the three strand doesn't bunch up going down the pipe because of curling in the line. I just pay attention to make sure it is falling free. A short tug from top side (6" or so) then let it fall again is enough to keep it going into the locker. All chain rode is heavy enough that there is no problem at all. Plait is another option that should work with no real issue, since it won't be stiff like the 3-strand. The solution is actually very cheap. A few bucks for the teak trim/moulding wood and a few dollars for the black plastic pipe. It does protrude a bit into the middle of the v-berth, but no significant impact on the sleeping comfort. The whole project took about 8 hours, since I was learning and designing as I went. || || || \ \ \ || Enjoy, Scott
There are some posts in the archives about how to re-run the hawse pipe so that it will drop the rode into the center of the anchor locker instead of the "V" of the bow. This solves the problem. I simplified the install a bit by buying waste pipe (4" diameter) from Home Depot with two 30 degree pipe angles. Pull out the vertical board in the front of the v-berth and then fit the new hawsepipe in. You will have a vertical straight piece from the deck to the first angle piece, another straight piece heading aft through where the board was to the second angle resting on top of the anchor locker inspection hatch in the v-berth. Mark where the angle piece rests on the inspection/access hatch in the v-berth and cut a 4" hole there. Then insert one very short straight piece vertically in the 2nd angle through the new hole. This short vertical piece will go in the hole you just cut and hold the new hawsepipe in place without any glue, nails etc... You want it inserted into the inspection hatch, not glued, so you can still lift the hatch when all done. Not anchoring it to the hatch leaves enough room to pick up the hatch and slide it to the side when you need to reach into the anchor locker (not very often anymore). Finally the hard part. Cut the vertical board (plywood and white cover) from the front of the v-berth horizontally aligned with the center of the middle straight piece of pipe. Then cut out the two complex semi-circles (actually half ovals). Insert the wood above and below, add some teak trim over the cuts and you are done. The only significant change from the previous posts in the archives (with photos) is that instead of kerfing (sp?) a straight pipe to get it to bend at the right angles, I used the 30 degree angle pieces. 100' or more of chain is no longer an issue since it drops into the center of the anchor locker. I don't normally keep that much weight in the bow, but can when planning a trip where I know I will need it. The only caution left is to make sure the three strand doesn't bunch up going down the pipe because of curling in the line. I just pay attention to make sure it is falling free. A short tug from top side (6" or so) then let it fall again is enough to keep it going into the locker. All chain rode is heavy enough that there is no problem at all. Plait is another option that should work with no real issue, since it won't be stiff like the 3-strand. The solution is actually very cheap. A few bucks for the teak trim/moulding wood and a few dollars for the black plastic pipe. It does protrude a bit into the middle of the v-berth, but no significant impact on the sleeping comfort. The whole project took about 8 hours, since I was learning and designing as I went. || || || \ \ \ || Enjoy, Scott
- Status