This is kind of premature, since I am going to deal with those shitty "Gray" portlights in the fall...but...what has everyone else used as a replacement, bronze, stainless, the lewmars? I am going to do something and it definately won't be the gray's, I wouldn't mind doing something radical like the portlights on the older catalina's or something like that, any input is appreciated and pictures would be sweet. thanks, Greg
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Those shitty Grays lasted for over 20 years.
Greg: Those shitty ol' Gray Ports have lasted for over 20 years. This is nothing to complain about. When you find out the trouble of replacing these with something like NFM bronze or some other port you may not be all that excited about doing it. You can get the replacment ports from Thrifty Mariner for $35-45 each. Not sure what these "higher quality" ports are really going to cost in time and total cost. Ed S. put some in his H'37C. I am not sure that he would do it again. PS: I also thought about the same upgrade and then came to my senses.
Greg: Those shitty ol' Gray Ports have lasted for over 20 years. This is nothing to complain about. When you find out the trouble of replacing these with something like NFM bronze or some other port you may not be all that excited about doing it. You can get the replacment ports from Thrifty Mariner for $35-45 each. Not sure what these "higher quality" ports are really going to cost in time and total cost. Ed S. put some in his H'37C. I am not sure that he would do it again. PS: I also thought about the same upgrade and then came to my senses.
A link
Here is what Ed used. When you see the price those "shitty," lights may take on a new glow... Good Luck
Here is what Ed used. When you see the price those "shitty," lights may take on a new glow... Good Luck
Wow....
you're both right...I love those "gray" ports...although asthetically I don't care for them...maybe if they were "flush" on the exterior I could live with them, I did see some affordable stainless ports from the Thrifty, although there are no pictures, any idea what they look like? I don't think I can justify spending over $1000 (to my wife that is) so I guess I will have to use the "gray series"
you're both right...I love those "gray" ports...although asthetically I don't care for them...maybe if they were "flush" on the exterior I could live with them, I did see some affordable stainless ports from the Thrifty, although there are no pictures, any idea what they look like? I don't think I can justify spending over $1000 (to my wife that is) so I guess I will have to use the "gray series"
New Found Metals
I'm certainly no porthole expert but here is my two cents worth. Those old gray's are kinda crappy looking but they have served my boat for the last 20+ years well. No, I don't trust them if a major wave should poop on us but for our usual coastal cruising they work. My wife actually want's to replace them with the New Found Metals port holes but the co$t is a bit stiff, guess I'm gonna live with the ole Gray's for a while longer. Besides, for the cost of replacing all of them we could sail to the Keys/Bahamas for six weeks.....guess I'm going back to the Keys.
I'm certainly no porthole expert but here is my two cents worth. Those old gray's are kinda crappy looking but they have served my boat for the last 20+ years well. No, I don't trust them if a major wave should poop on us but for our usual coastal cruising they work. My wife actually want's to replace them with the New Found Metals port holes but the co$t is a bit stiff, guess I'm gonna live with the ole Gray's for a while longer. Besides, for the cost of replacing all of them we could sail to the Keys/Bahamas for six weeks.....guess I'm going back to the Keys.
Old style?
Greg: I absolutely agree that the Gray ports are not the best looking things around. I wanted to put NFM ports in my H'31. At a price of $190 plus screens and assorted other pieces, I decided that this was not economically feisable. It would have been about $1500 by the time we where done (7 ports + screens). If yours are the OLD style with the long overhangs, I think that the newer ones are shorter. Just as a test, you could get a belt sander(or grinder) and sand the ports down so they are almost flush with the trim ring. If you like that look, you could then cut the new ones down before you install them. Someone else out there got some of those S.S. ports from the Thrifty Mariner. I would like to know the cost and the effort of installing them.
Greg: I absolutely agree that the Gray ports are not the best looking things around. I wanted to put NFM ports in my H'31. At a price of $190 plus screens and assorted other pieces, I decided that this was not economically feisable. It would have been about $1500 by the time we where done (7 ports + screens). If yours are the OLD style with the long overhangs, I think that the newer ones are shorter. Just as a test, you could get a belt sander(or grinder) and sand the ports down so they are almost flush with the trim ring. If you like that look, you could then cut the new ones down before you install them. Someone else out there got some of those S.S. ports from the Thrifty Mariner. I would like to know the cost and the effort of installing them.
Mine have a good bit of overhang.....
I just replaced my Grays last year, and even though I kinda like the overhang on the smaller ones that are forward of the mast, they tend to catch the jib sheets when tacking. I am thinking that the overhang will allow me to keep them open during a rain storm without leaking in, but they are somewhat of a pain to deal with when sailing. So... has anyone cut off the excess after they were installed or am I just out of luck with that option. Removing them is not an option, 5200 (what the instructions called for) would destroy the ports if I try to remove them. I would like to know how the overhang might be cut off while in place. Thanks everyone.
I just replaced my Grays last year, and even though I kinda like the overhang on the smaller ones that are forward of the mast, they tend to catch the jib sheets when tacking. I am thinking that the overhang will allow me to keep them open during a rain storm without leaking in, but they are somewhat of a pain to deal with when sailing. So... has anyone cut off the excess after they were installed or am I just out of luck with that option. Removing them is not an option, 5200 (what the instructions called for) would destroy the ports if I try to remove them. I would like to know how the overhang might be cut off while in place. Thanks everyone.
5200 is no langer Forever
Anti-Bond 2015 - 1.2 OZ Spray $8 at West Marine, and most boating stores. "Anti-Bond cleans and debonds 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives and sealants." I used it to remove a depth meter that was flush mounted with 5200. Works great, use patience and the 5200 turns to crumbly rubber.
Anti-Bond 2015 - 1.2 OZ Spray $8 at West Marine, and most boating stores. "Anti-Bond cleans and debonds 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives and sealants." I used it to remove a depth meter that was flush mounted with 5200. Works great, use patience and the 5200 turns to crumbly rubber.
Belt sander or Grinder!
David: One of the fellows in our marina has a H/30. He has the older style Gray Ports with the large eyebrows. Several of them where chipped and every time you walked by them they seemed to jump out and bit your ankle. They took a grinder to them, there is now only about 3/8 - 1/2" eyebrow. Not there are no snags, no hooks, no bites.
David: One of the fellows in our marina has a H/30. He has the older style Gray Ports with the large eyebrows. Several of them where chipped and every time you walked by them they seemed to jump out and bit your ankle. They took a grinder to them, there is now only about 3/8 - 1/2" eyebrow. Not there are no snags, no hooks, no bites.
Island Packet
The PO of our 1985 H34 replaced all of the opening ports with SS ports from Island Packet. I've had to remove them and re-bed with Life Seal, and replace the deteriorating 1/2" dia. rubber seals. It was rather pricey.
The PO of our 1985 H34 replaced all of the opening ports with SS ports from Island Packet. I've had to remove them and re-bed with Life Seal, and replace the deteriorating 1/2" dia. rubber seals. It was rather pricey.
Reducing port overhang
David, I have the same situation on the small Gray ports I recently replaced. I was thinking that perhaps an electric planer, set to cut pretty shallow could probably be effectively used to shave off the offending plastic. Mind you, I haven't tried this yet but will let you know if I do and whether it works or no. Do your jib sheets regularly hang on the overhang?
David, I have the same situation on the small Gray ports I recently replaced. I was thinking that perhaps an electric planer, set to cut pretty shallow could probably be effectively used to shave off the offending plastic. Mind you, I haven't tried this yet but will let you know if I do and whether it works or no. Do your jib sheets regularly hang on the overhang?
Cost, Effort, and Aesthetics
Our H-35 has Beckson ports which we replace a couple years ago with the same type and style of port. The advantage is the cutout is exactly what is needed for the replacement ports, which make the installation easier because the cutout doesn’t have to be altered size-wise. Surprisingly, many people prefer the original look vice something different even though the revised ports may cost a lot more. Cost: These are probably the most cost-effective ports available. Effort: still enough to want to avoid doing the work; however, it would have been much more if a different port was used. Time to change all four ports was about a day as this was my first time. If one would have to redesign the installation it would take a lot longer. Aesthetics: not all that bad. Sure, I would like to have had stainless but, frankly, the boat doesn’t justify it. One would never get the money back out in resale. The old ports lasted for around 12 or 13 years but probably should have been replaced a few years earlier as the Plexiglas was quite crazed, the gaskets were shot, some of the screens needed replacing, and a few knobs had cracked. The new ports made a tremendous difference in the appearance and from the inside the boat looks almost like new – and look ma – no leaks!!!. Yesterday I replaced the aft oval Grey ports to complete the project. For info, oval port used in late 80 vintage boats: Grey # G616-28SS, Pompanette Port # 616 WHT/TINT SS T-Ring. Grey is a subsidiary of Pompanette. Link below. Next project: Replace the 2-inch wide navy shear stripe but need to find a source. P.S. Deciding what to do is a major part of the battle - good luck making it!
Our H-35 has Beckson ports which we replace a couple years ago with the same type and style of port. The advantage is the cutout is exactly what is needed for the replacement ports, which make the installation easier because the cutout doesn’t have to be altered size-wise. Surprisingly, many people prefer the original look vice something different even though the revised ports may cost a lot more. Cost: These are probably the most cost-effective ports available. Effort: still enough to want to avoid doing the work; however, it would have been much more if a different port was used. Time to change all four ports was about a day as this was my first time. If one would have to redesign the installation it would take a lot longer. Aesthetics: not all that bad. Sure, I would like to have had stainless but, frankly, the boat doesn’t justify it. One would never get the money back out in resale. The old ports lasted for around 12 or 13 years but probably should have been replaced a few years earlier as the Plexiglas was quite crazed, the gaskets were shot, some of the screens needed replacing, and a few knobs had cracked. The new ports made a tremendous difference in the appearance and from the inside the boat looks almost like new – and look ma – no leaks!!!. Yesterday I replaced the aft oval Grey ports to complete the project. For info, oval port used in late 80 vintage boats: Grey # G616-28SS, Pompanette Port # 616 WHT/TINT SS T-Ring. Grey is a subsidiary of Pompanette. Link below. Next project: Replace the 2-inch wide navy shear stripe but need to find a source. P.S. Deciding what to do is a major part of the battle - good luck making it!
Terry, I have thought about using...
a hacksaw (spelling?), but not sure it will have the reach needed to cut all the way around the port. Also, I don't want to scare the side of the cabin. The lines usually get caught when I first raise the jib and there is some slack in the line. Once undersail, I can control the tension while tacking and that seems to keep the problem to a minimum. However, when conditions get rough, it seems to be more likely to happen and that's not always good timing. BTW, how is Bayhorse coming along? Are you back in the water now? Thanks, David
a hacksaw (spelling?), but not sure it will have the reach needed to cut all the way around the port. Also, I don't want to scare the side of the cabin. The lines usually get caught when I first raise the jib and there is some slack in the line. Once undersail, I can control the tension while tacking and that seems to keep the problem to a minimum. However, when conditions get rough, it seems to be more likely to happen and that's not always good timing. BTW, how is Bayhorse coming along? Are you back in the water now? Thanks, David
Will Beckson Fit?
Greg- Just came across some information on Beckson ports and they have a Special Note: "Longer or shorter spigot lengths also available. PLEASE CALL". Their address is Beckson Marine, Inc., Bridgeport, CT. The replacement ports for the late '80s boats is "PO410DBS-20", Port Opening, 4" x 10", Rain-Drain, Black, Spigot 2". A link to their web site is below. Hope this helps.
Greg- Just came across some information on Beckson ports and they have a Special Note: "Longer or shorter spigot lengths also available. PLEASE CALL". Their address is Beckson Marine, Inc., Bridgeport, CT. The replacement ports for the late '80s boats is "PO410DBS-20", Port Opening, 4" x 10", Rain-Drain, Black, Spigot 2". A link to their web site is below. Hope this helps.
Shear Stripe
John: The first place I'd go would be to Hunter (they probably no longer carry this stuff any longer). If they do not have it, go to a place that makes to vinyl lettering. They can order this stuff in the long strips and then cut it down or what ever you want. If you cannot find anyone in your area, let me know. There is a fellow in our marina from Orville, CA. His son owns a sign shop and he said he would make it up for us.
John: The first place I'd go would be to Hunter (they probably no longer carry this stuff any longer). If they do not have it, go to a place that makes to vinyl lettering. They can order this stuff in the long strips and then cut it down or what ever you want. If you cannot find anyone in your area, let me know. There is a fellow in our marina from Orville, CA. His son owns a sign shop and he said he would make it up for us.
Shear Stripe Thanks Steve
Thanks for the info Steve. I called Hunter and they no longer carry it. Checked with two local sign companies and one didn't carry it and the other mentioned they would cut it like you mentioned and we'll swing by and see what the material looks like tomorrow. My wife did the phone talking to this point. In the meantime I checked the Boat US, Boaters World, Defender, and the West Marine catalogs and only West Marine had something listed. On page 423 of the 2002 Master Catalog is some "Dark Blue" tape, M/N 225963/WTAPE 6450090. The "Premium 2mm thick vinyl striping tape" roll is 2-inch wide x 50 ft and costs $29.99 per roll, and I'll need two rolls. Plan to get an "eraser" like you've often suggested. Noted that they have a 3M Woodgrain & Stripe Remover, 24 oz aerosol can, for $21.99. Hope I don't need this too as the project will run over a $100 bucks. I'll see how the eraser works first. Again, thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info Steve. I called Hunter and they no longer carry it. Checked with two local sign companies and one didn't carry it and the other mentioned they would cut it like you mentioned and we'll swing by and see what the material looks like tomorrow. My wife did the phone talking to this point. In the meantime I checked the Boat US, Boaters World, Defender, and the West Marine catalogs and only West Marine had something listed. On page 423 of the 2002 Master Catalog is some "Dark Blue" tape, M/N 225963/WTAPE 6450090. The "Premium 2mm thick vinyl striping tape" roll is 2-inch wide x 50 ft and costs $29.99 per roll, and I'll need two rolls. Plan to get an "eraser" like you've often suggested. Noted that they have a 3M Woodgrain & Stripe Remover, 24 oz aerosol can, for $21.99. Hope I don't need this too as the project will run over a $100 bucks. I'll see how the eraser works first. Again, thanks for the info.
If you don't need something custom.
Hi John: If you don't need anything custom, then the stuff at the marine stores should do you fine. My guy, said he can reproduce what we have if he orders the narrow material. He does stuff for us very very cheap (boat names in large letters (4-5") for $1.50/letter installed. That is what happens when you are retired in your early 50's and don't have anything to do. Carries his laptop and plotter with him and makes the stuff on site.
Hi John: If you don't need anything custom, then the stuff at the marine stores should do you fine. My guy, said he can reproduce what we have if he orders the narrow material. He does stuff for us very very cheap (boat names in large letters (4-5") for $1.50/letter installed. That is what happens when you are retired in your early 50's and don't have anything to do. Carries his laptop and plotter with him and makes the stuff on site.
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