On the port side of my h26 the seal of the forward portlight has failed. The aft half of the light can be pushed out. What should I use to reseal it? Thanks, Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
- Status
3M 4200 or 5200
I had a broken starboard-side portlight on my 260 (don't ask, it's too painful for me to tell). I received a new portlight from my local Hunter dealer along with a couple tubes of black 3M 5200. The black matched the original bedding adhesive beautifully, and it went together no problem. In retrospect, now that I know more, I guess I could have used black 3M 4200, since that is recommended for above-the-waterline applications. However they might have sent me the 5200 because I was sealing against rainwater ingress. Either way, that's what I'd recommend based on what my Hunter dealer did. You might also have to pop the portlight out entirely and rebed it as an entire piece if you want all the leaks out. Trying to get it 100% sealed (adhesive under all the free areas) while part of it is still attached to the boat might not be possible. Best of luck!
I had a broken starboard-side portlight on my 260 (don't ask, it's too painful for me to tell). I received a new portlight from my local Hunter dealer along with a couple tubes of black 3M 5200. The black matched the original bedding adhesive beautifully, and it went together no problem. In retrospect, now that I know more, I guess I could have used black 3M 4200, since that is recommended for above-the-waterline applications. However they might have sent me the 5200 because I was sealing against rainwater ingress. Either way, that's what I'd recommend based on what my Hunter dealer did. You might also have to pop the portlight out entirely and rebed it as an entire piece if you want all the leaks out. Trying to get it 100% sealed (adhesive under all the free areas) while part of it is still attached to the boat might not be possible. Best of luck!
Not 3M 5200...
Phone Hunter Marine and not your dealer for a recommendation. Dow Corning 795 is what they will recommend. Do not use 3M 5200 for anything that you may have to remove in the future. It is a more of structural adhesive than a sealant and should only be used for permanent applications.
Phone Hunter Marine and not your dealer for a recommendation. Dow Corning 795 is what they will recommend. Do not use 3M 5200 for anything that you may have to remove in the future. It is a more of structural adhesive than a sealant and should only be used for permanent applications.
Absolutley YES to Dow 795
Ron - I had a replacement foreward window (the big one) installed twice, by two different Hunter dealers. It came loose again both times. The second dealer used Sikaflex. I don't know what the first dealer used. Black is black, but they aren't all equal. 795 is silicone-based. Sikaflex is something quite different. I think 3M 4200 is different again. I spent 30 minutes on the phone with the Hunter factory, with a fellow who has installed thousands of windows. They use Dow Corning 795. I was surprized when he said they don't even clamp the windows. They just press their knees against the window for a few seconds. I rigged a clamp around for one end just to hold it down, but otherwise it just stayed in place. One trick is to test the position of the window in place before any adhesive is applied. Move it fore and aft to decide the best placement to minimize the space between the window and hull. Both are bevelled, so moving 1/4 inch or less can increase the gap that needs to be filled by quite a bit. Check the other window to see where it is. Mine had the pointy end as far forward as it would go with the window flat with the hull. The opposite end is "down into the bevelled depression". It took me at least 20 hours to get all the old adhesive off and the window reinstalled. That included getting the temporary clear silicone that I squirted into the opening off the window itself. It stuck to the window quite well. Also, getting off the goo from the duck tape that I used to seal the window over the winter. I just finished the job on Sunday. You have to get down to the clean fiberglass. I used a sequence of a razorblade scraper, a 1" putty knife to scrape, 120 grit sandpaper and acetone to get the Sikaflex off. It's interesting to note that the Sikaflex was a bitch to get off the hull, but there wasn't a trace of it on the window. The local industrial supplier who sold me the Dow 795 insisted I use a primer as well. Dow Corning 1205 Prime Coat. It's clear and just paints on. Cost more than the 795. The factory didn't mention it but I took the advice and used it. The supplier said 795 is used for windows on high-rise office buildings. I used almost a whole tube of 795 installing the window. I don't know if the H26 window is longer than my H23.5. On the hull, acetone, Goo Gone, Goo Off and Goo Off2 all seem safe. On the window, I used Goo Off and Goo Off2 with no ill effects. Goo Gone is probably OK as it contains xylene like Goo Off. I used Windex to clean off the Goo Off, and water to rinse off the Windex. Do NOT get acetone on the window! I don't know if the window is Lexan (polycarbonate) or Plexiglass (polysomethingelse), but I believe both will dissolve in acetone. Acetone is used to melt and weld/bond such plastic joints together! The scariest part was putting on the adhesive. If you don't put on enough, the white hull will show through. I figured pulling it off to put on more 795 would be impossible, so I was really sweating this part. So, I masked off the window and hull everywhere on both sides of the joint and used the whole tube. I pre-spread it around with a putty knife on the large forward part of the hull that is covered by the window. Then I used nearly the whole tube and pressed with my knees and let it ooze out onto the masking tape. All in all, not that much oozed out except at the pointy end where a small handful came out. I did make sure that at least a little oozed out everywhere to make sure that the whole gap was filled. I ran two beads along the hull and one on the window and pressed them together. I had a couple of little white spots showing along the top that I could see when I removed the masking tape (while the 795 is still wet). So I pressed as hard as I could with a knee until the area flowed together. After sailing around with duct tape on my window for two seasons I can't relate how absolutely thrilled I am to have this problem behind me. Mind you, I just finished this on Sunday. The boat is 90 minutes away so this weekend will be the clincher - but I'm boldly confident that the window will be in place when I get to the lake Friday night.
...RickM...
Ron - I had a replacement foreward window (the big one) installed twice, by two different Hunter dealers. It came loose again both times. The second dealer used Sikaflex. I don't know what the first dealer used. Black is black, but they aren't all equal. 795 is silicone-based. Sikaflex is something quite different. I think 3M 4200 is different again. I spent 30 minutes on the phone with the Hunter factory, with a fellow who has installed thousands of windows. They use Dow Corning 795. I was surprized when he said they don't even clamp the windows. They just press their knees against the window for a few seconds. I rigged a clamp around for one end just to hold it down, but otherwise it just stayed in place. One trick is to test the position of the window in place before any adhesive is applied. Move it fore and aft to decide the best placement to minimize the space between the window and hull. Both are bevelled, so moving 1/4 inch or less can increase the gap that needs to be filled by quite a bit. Check the other window to see where it is. Mine had the pointy end as far forward as it would go with the window flat with the hull. The opposite end is "down into the bevelled depression". It took me at least 20 hours to get all the old adhesive off and the window reinstalled. That included getting the temporary clear silicone that I squirted into the opening off the window itself. It stuck to the window quite well. Also, getting off the goo from the duck tape that I used to seal the window over the winter. I just finished the job on Sunday. You have to get down to the clean fiberglass. I used a sequence of a razorblade scraper, a 1" putty knife to scrape, 120 grit sandpaper and acetone to get the Sikaflex off. It's interesting to note that the Sikaflex was a bitch to get off the hull, but there wasn't a trace of it on the window. The local industrial supplier who sold me the Dow 795 insisted I use a primer as well. Dow Corning 1205 Prime Coat. It's clear and just paints on. Cost more than the 795. The factory didn't mention it but I took the advice and used it. The supplier said 795 is used for windows on high-rise office buildings. I used almost a whole tube of 795 installing the window. I don't know if the H26 window is longer than my H23.5. On the hull, acetone, Goo Gone, Goo Off and Goo Off2 all seem safe. On the window, I used Goo Off and Goo Off2 with no ill effects. Goo Gone is probably OK as it contains xylene like Goo Off. I used Windex to clean off the Goo Off, and water to rinse off the Windex. Do NOT get acetone on the window! I don't know if the window is Lexan (polycarbonate) or Plexiglass (polysomethingelse), but I believe both will dissolve in acetone. Acetone is used to melt and weld/bond such plastic joints together! The scariest part was putting on the adhesive. If you don't put on enough, the white hull will show through. I figured pulling it off to put on more 795 would be impossible, so I was really sweating this part. So, I masked off the window and hull everywhere on both sides of the joint and used the whole tube. I pre-spread it around with a putty knife on the large forward part of the hull that is covered by the window. Then I used nearly the whole tube and pressed with my knees and let it ooze out onto the masking tape. All in all, not that much oozed out except at the pointy end where a small handful came out. I did make sure that at least a little oozed out everywhere to make sure that the whole gap was filled. I ran two beads along the hull and one on the window and pressed them together. I had a couple of little white spots showing along the top that I could see when I removed the masking tape (while the 795 is still wet). So I pressed as hard as I could with a knee until the area flowed together. After sailing around with duct tape on my window for two seasons I can't relate how absolutely thrilled I am to have this problem behind me. Mind you, I just finished this on Sunday. The boat is 90 minutes away so this weekend will be the clincher - but I'm boldly confident that the window will be in place when I get to the lake Friday night.
...RickM...
Hmmmmmm *yks
Sounds like I might have gotten the wrong adhesive from my dealer! At least it will be a permanent seal ;-) I don't want my portlights opening or leaking ever again! Sorry for the off-base suggestion, and thanks to everyone for the corrections. Mike
Sounds like I might have gotten the wrong adhesive from my dealer! At least it will be a permanent seal ;-) I don't want my portlights opening or leaking ever again! Sorry for the off-base suggestion, and thanks to everyone for the corrections. Mike
More details
Ron - I forgot to mention to use 40lb test fishing line, not piano wire, to "saw" through the old sealant to get the window off. It won't scratch like piano wire. Don't get impatient and try pulling off the window. I bet it would break (perhaps indicating that it's not Lexan). The factory said the job is best done when the weather is cool and dry. The factory suggested to scuff up the hull and window where the adhesive goes with 80-grit sandpaper for better adhesion. The dealer who sold me the 795 didn't think that was necessary, especially with the primer. I was afraid of the scratches from the sandpaper showing so I didn't do this step, although in retrospect I had no business going against what the factory would have me do. I was running out of time this morning and didn't give this detail: I clamped the bare window in place by running lines from the trailer frame over the deck to the trailer frame on the other side. I put masking tape on the hull all around the window, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch away from the window edge. Then I went inside and put masking tape on the inside of the window around the holes and on the hull inside the windows, again about 1/16" from the window edge. Another way would have been to mark the hull holes outlines on the window with a pen or something and then put on the masking tape after removing the window again. After removing the window I put masking tape on the outside of the window (up to the edges). It's hard to explain all this but the end result is that when you press the window on and the 795 oozes out, it only gets on masking tape, inside and out. I cleared away the excess with a rounded rubber grout smoothing tool and peeled off the masking tape within 5-10 minutes afterwards while the 795 was still wet. The next day I scraped away any little irregularities with my fingernails. The result was a fairly clean job! Lastly, he said to clean up excess ooze with Ivory soapy water, but with the masking tape I had nothing to clean up. Good luck! The whole thing was so traumatic for me, and hung over my head for so long, that I wanted to pass on as much as I could to help others. ...RickM...
Ron - I forgot to mention to use 40lb test fishing line, not piano wire, to "saw" through the old sealant to get the window off. It won't scratch like piano wire. Don't get impatient and try pulling off the window. I bet it would break (perhaps indicating that it's not Lexan). The factory said the job is best done when the weather is cool and dry. The factory suggested to scuff up the hull and window where the adhesive goes with 80-grit sandpaper for better adhesion. The dealer who sold me the 795 didn't think that was necessary, especially with the primer. I was afraid of the scratches from the sandpaper showing so I didn't do this step, although in retrospect I had no business going against what the factory would have me do. I was running out of time this morning and didn't give this detail: I clamped the bare window in place by running lines from the trailer frame over the deck to the trailer frame on the other side. I put masking tape on the hull all around the window, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch away from the window edge. Then I went inside and put masking tape on the inside of the window around the holes and on the hull inside the windows, again about 1/16" from the window edge. Another way would have been to mark the hull holes outlines on the window with a pen or something and then put on the masking tape after removing the window again. After removing the window I put masking tape on the outside of the window (up to the edges). It's hard to explain all this but the end result is that when you press the window on and the 795 oozes out, it only gets on masking tape, inside and out. I cleared away the excess with a rounded rubber grout smoothing tool and peeled off the masking tape within 5-10 minutes afterwards while the 795 was still wet. The next day I scraped away any little irregularities with my fingernails. The result was a fairly clean job! Lastly, he said to clean up excess ooze with Ivory soapy water, but with the masking tape I had nothing to clean up. Good luck! The whole thing was so traumatic for me, and hung over my head for so long, that I wanted to pass on as much as I could to help others. ...RickM...
THANKS!!!
Wow. That's quite a write-up, Rick. I appreciate you taking the time to detail the procedure. Ron
Wow. That's quite a write-up, Rick. I appreciate you taking the time to detail the procedure. Ron
- Status