We have 11 operable? portholes on our Hunter 33. The previous owner sloppily siliconed just about every leaking porthole shut, and they still leak. Most of the connectors, latches, small plastic pieces are broken. I would love to replace them with operable portholes but am reluctant to spend $150 per porthole. I am considering removal and new plexiglas fixed for the time being. The frames on the outside are still in good shape. This should keep them dry. As I am a new boat owner I would appreciate any suggestions.
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I replaced mine for an average price of.....
55.00 per port. You may also find outlets that are mentioned on this site where the ports are running only 35-45 per port. These are the exact replacements made by Bomar ... "Gray Portlights" and are complete units. Good look.
55.00 per port. You may also find outlets that are mentioned on this site where the ports are running only 35-45 per port. These are the exact replacements made by Bomar ... "Gray Portlights" and are complete units. Good look.
Look in the archives under "Portlights"
If you look in the archives under portlights or portlight replacement you will find a lot of information about your problem - but most of the solutions involve replacing the entire portlight unit with another entire portlight assembly. You need to be careful with what you do, since leakage around the portlights themselves will penetrate the balsa coring of the cabin sides and destroy it - do you have leaks with brown looking stains running from the bottom of the portlights inside? If so, its already happening.
If you look in the archives under portlights or portlight replacement you will find a lot of information about your problem - but most of the solutions involve replacing the entire portlight unit with another entire portlight assembly. You need to be careful with what you do, since leakage around the portlights themselves will penetrate the balsa coring of the cabin sides and destroy it - do you have leaks with brown looking stains running from the bottom of the portlights inside? If so, its already happening.
Replacements from Sailnet.com
I just ordered 10 new portlights from Sailnet.com (I am going to ignore the port at the navstation which opens to the cockpit, as it is pretty well protected and hasn't leaked yet.) I visited them at the US Sailboat show and got a pretty good quote ($542) for the entire set, no shipping, no tax. Other posts will refer you to Thrifty Mariner. I called them first. However, the good prices are for second quality, and they were out of seconds without anticipation of receiving more. So, their price was retail (around $800 for all 10). Sailnet also sells replacement lenses, which if your leaks are due to broken tabs could be the fix (without the labor of removal and replacemnt of frames, which involves new cutouts for relocated drains). I haven't received my portlights yet, but I will let you know how the replacement goes.
I just ordered 10 new portlights from Sailnet.com (I am going to ignore the port at the navstation which opens to the cockpit, as it is pretty well protected and hasn't leaked yet.) I visited them at the US Sailboat show and got a pretty good quote ($542) for the entire set, no shipping, no tax. Other posts will refer you to Thrifty Mariner. I called them first. However, the good prices are for second quality, and they were out of seconds without anticipation of receiving more. So, their price was retail (around $800 for all 10). Sailnet also sells replacement lenses, which if your leaks are due to broken tabs could be the fix (without the labor of removal and replacemnt of frames, which involves new cutouts for relocated drains). I haven't received my portlights yet, but I will let you know how the replacement goes.
Leaking portlights.
Mr. Underwood and Mr. Timmons have the right idea. The attached picture is of a portlight replaced by a previous owner. The drains were in a different location and he did not bother to fill the old notches. The frame, either glued or screwed around the portlight, does nothing to keep out water. Some water gets in around the rubber seal. The seal is easily replaced. But water also gets in between the spigot and the cabin plywood. Many have removed the portlight to find the plywood completely gone. I had only some dampness. After letting the wood dry I epoxied the entire cabin opening. The final secret is using the proper sealant so no water can get in around the spigot and cabin opening.
Mr. Underwood and Mr. Timmons have the right idea. The attached picture is of a portlight replaced by a previous owner. The drains were in a different location and he did not bother to fill the old notches. The frame, either glued or screwed around the portlight, does nothing to keep out water. Some water gets in around the rubber seal. The seal is easily replaced. But water also gets in between the spigot and the cabin plywood. Many have removed the portlight to find the plywood completely gone. I had only some dampness. After letting the wood dry I epoxied the entire cabin opening. The final secret is using the proper sealant so no water can get in around the spigot and cabin opening.
Attachments
Leaking portlights.
Mr. Underwood and Mr. Timmons have the right idea. The attached picture is of a portlight replaced by a previous owner. The drains were in a different location and he did not bother to fill the old notches. The frame, either glued or screwed around the portlight, does nothing to keep out water. Some water gets in around the rubber seal. The seal is easily replaced. But water also gets in between the spigot and the cabin plywood. Many have removed the portlight to find the plywood completely gone. I had only some dampness. After letting the wood dry I epoxied the entire cabin opening. The final secret is using the proper sealant so no water can get in around the spigot and cabin opening.
Mr. Underwood and Mr. Timmons have the right idea. The attached picture is of a portlight replaced by a previous owner. The drains were in a different location and he did not bother to fill the old notches. The frame, either glued or screwed around the portlight, does nothing to keep out water. Some water gets in around the rubber seal. The seal is easily replaced. But water also gets in between the spigot and the cabin plywood. Many have removed the portlight to find the plywood completely gone. I had only some dampness. After letting the wood dry I epoxied the entire cabin opening. The final secret is using the proper sealant so no water can get in around the spigot and cabin opening.
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