Hi I port windows that open in on my boat that are getting old have crack plastic and need to be replaced.Does any one have any suggestions on what windows would be best to use in this model.We would really like to keep them so they wouod be able to open they are made of plastic and after 20 years the material is startinfg to crumble. Thanks Sam
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Couple of sources.
You could call or write Thrifty Mariner for replacements(www.thriftymariner.com). Pompanette has the exact replacements or pieces/parts for a little more $$$(Link below, then click on Gray). In the stores I like the looks of the Beckson "Rain-Drain" models(www.beckson.com), but exact fit might be a problem. Or you could do what some of us have done and replace with bronze or stainless(www.newfoundmetals.com). Good luck.
You could call or write Thrifty Mariner for replacements(www.thriftymariner.com). Pompanette has the exact replacements or pieces/parts for a little more $$$(Link below, then click on Gray). In the stores I like the looks of the Beckson "Rain-Drain" models(www.beckson.com), but exact fit might be a problem. Or you could do what some of us have done and replace with bronze or stainless(www.newfoundmetals.com). Good luck.
We've replaced some of our opening ports
We called Hunter service to find the original manufacturer about five years ago when we needed to replace our ports. The cost was about $20 less then a local discount chandler. They were identical to the original port lights, and were delivered within 3 days. I can't remember the manufacturer's name at the moment, but I would recomend this approach as a first try.
We called Hunter service to find the original manufacturer about five years ago when we needed to replace our ports. The cost was about $20 less then a local discount chandler. They were identical to the original port lights, and were delivered within 3 days. I can't remember the manufacturer's name at the moment, but I would recomend this approach as a first try.
Install Tip
Try to optomize the sealant around the port rough-in. Suggest filing the outside edge of the rough-in at, say, a 45 degree angle (outside surface of coach roof) to provide more sealant contact area and a larger bead. This is very important as it's this area that keeps water out of the cabin. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the boat as the coach roof liner doesn't do anything to keep water out. Hunter also sells sealant - the same kind they use on the assembly line. Its made by Dow and is not sold in marine stores. It's also the same sealant that Bayliner uses! New ports will make the boat look much better.
Try to optomize the sealant around the port rough-in. Suggest filing the outside edge of the rough-in at, say, a 45 degree angle (outside surface of coach roof) to provide more sealant contact area and a larger bead. This is very important as it's this area that keeps water out of the cabin. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the boat as the coach roof liner doesn't do anything to keep water out. Hunter also sells sealant - the same kind they use on the assembly line. Its made by Dow and is not sold in marine stores. It's also the same sealant that Bayliner uses! New ports will make the boat look much better.
Agree with John
I just removed my ports on my 1984 31 and re-caulked them. As John Nantz suggested, get the sealant between the cabin and the port on the outside of the boat. It is the most important. Do not put any sealant on the inside as it will only hide a leak. I did not put the trim ring back on the windows, as the window holes were a tight fit. The sealant covered the fit nicely and it looked better that way. also without the trim you can readily see the condition of the sealant. I used 3M 4200.
I just removed my ports on my 1984 31 and re-caulked them. As John Nantz suggested, get the sealant between the cabin and the port on the outside of the boat. It is the most important. Do not put any sealant on the inside as it will only hide a leak. I did not put the trim ring back on the windows, as the window holes were a tight fit. The sealant covered the fit nicely and it looked better that way. also without the trim you can readily see the condition of the sealant. I used 3M 4200.
REPLACEMENT PORTS
Last fall I replaced four of the eight ports on my '84 Hunter 34 with Beckson "Rain Drain" opening ports. The first two were installed with silicone sealer alone. On the second pair I used a 1/4" foam gasket between the outside of the cabin and the port frame in addition to silicone sealer. All four of the ports were through bolted with S/S mechine screws and self-locking nuts on the inside. The gaskets were cut from bulk gasket material and make a more seaworthy installation. Good luck.
Last fall I replaced four of the eight ports on my '84 Hunter 34 with Beckson "Rain Drain" opening ports. The first two were installed with silicone sealer alone. On the second pair I used a 1/4" foam gasket between the outside of the cabin and the port frame in addition to silicone sealer. All four of the ports were through bolted with S/S mechine screws and self-locking nuts on the inside. The gaskets were cut from bulk gasket material and make a more seaworthy installation. Good luck.
Cracking port lights
Same problem here, Sam. Two things; Gray Enterprises in Tampa, (813) 885-2182 made the original ports and they are still in business. So, you might be able to buy new ones, yank the old ones and replace them. Or, if you have a little extra to spend and think your boat is worth it, New Found Metals offers a series of metal ports as replacements. They are pretty nice and priced competitively. I'm going to sooner or later face same problem as you and I am seriously thinking about upgrading to the metal ones; made of brass or chrome-plated brass and I think NFM just started offering ones in stainless. If you are anywhere near the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show next week, Gray/Pompanette have a booth.
Same problem here, Sam. Two things; Gray Enterprises in Tampa, (813) 885-2182 made the original ports and they are still in business. So, you might be able to buy new ones, yank the old ones and replace them. Or, if you have a little extra to spend and think your boat is worth it, New Found Metals offers a series of metal ports as replacements. They are pretty nice and priced competitively. I'm going to sooner or later face same problem as you and I am seriously thinking about upgrading to the metal ones; made of brass or chrome-plated brass and I think NFM just started offering ones in stainless. If you are anywhere near the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show next week, Gray/Pompanette have a booth.
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