Has anyone found replacement port lights posibly made of aluminum? Pat McCartin 1979 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
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Why?
Pat: Why do you want to do that now on a 20 year old boat. The Bomar/Gray ports are inexpensive and easily replaced. They have lasted this long. If you really want a high quality replacment look at New Found Metals in Washington state. www.newfoundmetals.com They are cast brass/bronze and can be had with chrome plating. PS: I am thinking about doing the same thing on our H'31.
Pat: Why do you want to do that now on a 20 year old boat. The Bomar/Gray ports are inexpensive and easily replaced. They have lasted this long. If you really want a high quality replacment look at New Found Metals in Washington state. www.newfoundmetals.com They are cast brass/bronze and can be had with chrome plating. PS: I am thinking about doing the same thing on our H'31.
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Bill Boyke
Just did an installation.
I just had all the ports and the main hatch replaced on my 1975 H30 with New Found Metal Ports. My wife wanted the main ports replaced also to increase ventilation. So we now have 4 5X12 bronze ports in the front and 6 6X20s in the main cabin. Not cheap but it made a major difference in appearance. Word of warning, the 1975 Hunter's wall is thin, so a beauty ring/shim had to be made to allow full clamping. I will post pictures when we have a chance. Second Caution, the ports are not light. If you race or worried about weight, these are not for you.
I just had all the ports and the main hatch replaced on my 1975 H30 with New Found Metal Ports. My wife wanted the main ports replaced also to increase ventilation. So we now have 4 5X12 bronze ports in the front and 6 6X20s in the main cabin. Not cheap but it made a major difference in appearance. Word of warning, the 1975 Hunter's wall is thin, so a beauty ring/shim had to be made to allow full clamping. I will post pictures when we have a chance. Second Caution, the ports are not light. If you race or worried about weight, these are not for you.
Yes Bill, post those pictures.
Bill: We would love to see the pictures of your Hunter with the NFM ports. This is a subject that comes up regularly. The sooner the better. Very easy to do once you have the digital images. Just make sure that you pictures follow the rules with the names, no spaces and special characters and away you go.
Bill: We would love to see the pictures of your Hunter with the NFM ports. This is a subject that comes up regularly. The sooner the better. Very easy to do once you have the digital images. Just make sure that you pictures follow the rules with the names, no spaces and special characters and away you go.
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Ed Schenck
Why the Why, Steve?
Then did I understand you are replacing yours? With what? And Bill is right, the NFM's are heavy suckers. I have two 7x14's in my basement and can barely lift the two together. I'm not carrying them out to the boat, it will wait until the fall. Besides the weight I do not like three other features. One, you need a hook and chain to keep open. Two, unless varnished or otherwise coated they turn color rapidly. Three, they won't drain on a Cherubini cabin. But they seal well, use two cams for fast closure, are safety-glass, and not affected by people stepping on the spigots. And they look great when polished! I checked Mike Alge's installation, all ten new NFM's on his H37C. Makes the boat look like an rich. Caution from Mike. There are two spigot lengths(depths?) available. The forward cabin trunk thickness is less than the main salon. Two inch spigots for 7x14's and one and one-half inch for 5x12's. He said the 5x12's fit the original hole. The 7x14's are a little short and he filled with plywood and epoxy. But the frame covers it.
Then did I understand you are replacing yours? With what? And Bill is right, the NFM's are heavy suckers. I have two 7x14's in my basement and can barely lift the two together. I'm not carrying them out to the boat, it will wait until the fall. Besides the weight I do not like three other features. One, you need a hook and chain to keep open. Two, unless varnished or otherwise coated they turn color rapidly. Three, they won't drain on a Cherubini cabin. But they seal well, use two cams for fast closure, are safety-glass, and not affected by people stepping on the spigots. And they look great when polished! I checked Mike Alge's installation, all ten new NFM's on his H37C. Makes the boat look like an rich. Caution from Mike. There are two spigot lengths(depths?) available. The forward cabin trunk thickness is less than the main salon. Two inch spigots for 7x14's and one and one-half inch for 5x12's. He said the 5x12's fit the original hole. The 7x14's are a little short and he filled with plywood and epoxy. But the frame covers it.
Why the why, is why!
Ed: Just trying to stir up some S--T. It is a big investment too. The small ones are about $120 + screens. Add to that the price of chrome (about $20-25) and we have a few bucks. I think the Gray ports are only about $80-90 each and probably less with discounts. The wife squeaked when I bought the Garhauer Vang, how loud is she going to be when I spend $1000 on ports? The bottom line on the Gray ports is about 1/2 the cost, but look what you have when you are done! They have chromed ones too. On the later boats ('85) we only need 5 x 12's. I think that they would make the boat look quite nice. They also make a fixed version for someone that has a port that they DO NOT want to open (I've got one just opposite the head). As far as the spigot length, I think that they will customize these if needed. My Gray ports do not drain very well either. We just have a rag ready when we open a wet port. On some of the older Hunters the Gray ports stuck out way too far and are basically ankle biter's. The Gray port needed to be trimmed. If you kick one of these NFM ports you are going to break your ankle, so be sure that they do not protrude too far. I would like to see the end results on any Hunter that has installed these ports. If we could also get a disertation from the owner on the installation pitfalls, it would be good too. Have you installed any of yours yet?
Ed: Just trying to stir up some S--T. It is a big investment too. The small ones are about $120 + screens. Add to that the price of chrome (about $20-25) and we have a few bucks. I think the Gray ports are only about $80-90 each and probably less with discounts. The wife squeaked when I bought the Garhauer Vang, how loud is she going to be when I spend $1000 on ports? The bottom line on the Gray ports is about 1/2 the cost, but look what you have when you are done! They have chromed ones too. On the later boats ('85) we only need 5 x 12's. I think that they would make the boat look quite nice. They also make a fixed version for someone that has a port that they DO NOT want to open (I've got one just opposite the head). As far as the spigot length, I think that they will customize these if needed. My Gray ports do not drain very well either. We just have a rag ready when we open a wet port. On some of the older Hunters the Gray ports stuck out way too far and are basically ankle biter's. The Gray port needed to be trimmed. If you kick one of these NFM ports you are going to break your ankle, so be sure that they do not protrude too far. I would like to see the end results on any Hunter that has installed these ports. If we could also get a disertation from the owner on the installation pitfalls, it would be good too. Have you installed any of yours yet?
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Ed Schenck
Mike, where are you?
Mike not only installed ten but made a special drill bit(which I now have). And he told me where to buy the bolts, just a local shop near our boats. So he's the expert and could really add to this post. I do recall that he did not correctly seal them the first time. BTW, the NFM web-site has printable instructions for the installation. See - www.newfoundmetals.com/index.htm
Mike not only installed ten but made a special drill bit(which I now have). And he told me where to buy the bolts, just a local shop near our boats. So he's the expert and could really add to this post. I do recall that he did not correctly seal them the first time. BTW, the NFM web-site has printable instructions for the installation. See - www.newfoundmetals.com/index.htm
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Pat McCartin
Thanks!!!!!
Thanks for all the info everyone. I've found 5 Bowmar Alum. Ports used, off a friends Rhodes Bounty (5x12). Now I need to find the other large ports in the main salon. Thanks again. Pat
Thanks for all the info everyone. I've found 5 Bowmar Alum. Ports used, off a friends Rhodes Bounty (5x12). Now I need to find the other large ports in the main salon. Thanks again. Pat
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Gene Gruender
NFM doesn't adjust well
I've had NFM ports in Rainbow Chaser now for going on 4 years. They do have some problems: the needed chain, which you get used to quickly, the lack of complete draining on our boats and the tarnishing. However, you need to add sealing to the list of problems. First, the cams don't stay adjusted. The screws that hold them in turn on their own and change in adjustment quickly. Also, they seep water between the rubber and glass. All in all, I wish I'd saved a bit longer and paid more for some stainless ones. Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
I've had NFM ports in Rainbow Chaser now for going on 4 years. They do have some problems: the needed chain, which you get used to quickly, the lack of complete draining on our boats and the tarnishing. However, you need to add sealing to the list of problems. First, the cams don't stay adjusted. The screws that hold them in turn on their own and change in adjustment quickly. Also, they seep water between the rubber and glass. All in all, I wish I'd saved a bit longer and paid more for some stainless ones. Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
Gene G - Rainbow Chaser
Gene: Have you contacted NFM about these problems? I have considered these portlights for my boat and would like to know what they say about your problems.
Gene: Have you contacted NFM about these problems? I have considered these portlights for my boat and would like to know what they say about your problems.
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Mike Alge
I agree with Gene on the use of the stainless steel version of NFM ports. Yes they do not stay in adjustment very well . Yes thet do catch a lot of water. Yes thet do tarnish very quickly. And yes they can be hard to seal up well. I have found that if I put enough sealant in to get squeeze out all the way around the outside of the trim ring and also around the space between the ring and the port , I can get the port to seal up without leaks. This requires a lot of sealant . I used almost two tubes per port @ $13 per tube and could have used more as two of the ports had to be resealed again. The spigots stick out beyond the trim rings approx. 1/2 inch . This winter ,I will use my die grinder and cut them back and round over the edges so they are not ankle biters. I am going to try to polish the tarnish off and put clear coat varnish on them in an effort to keep them looking nice but I don't know how successful I will be. There Is another H37c in the next marina over from mine and he replaced his Bomars with Beekson Rain Drains . He does not have the problem of water drainage so that may be a viable alternative . They drain at a 45 degree angle One might concider those ports also. They are also alot cheaper, about the same as Bomars.
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Richard Walcome
New Found Port lights adjustments etc
I would like to respond to a few points made in this recent forum concerning our ports lights. Our ports (New Found Metals) are now installed on nearly 1500 boats of all types. We regularly make improvments and change things as we spot problems or problems are pointed out by our customers. Let me first address the issue of the cam closer. We use removable loctite in the threads of the adjuster to keep it from acting with the cam closer This is effective in keeping the adjuster in place. A few ports have gone out without the loctite. This is an easy fix as just a few drops of blue loctite fixes the problem. We have also since added space internally in the cam. This now gives our port the most rapid to close and easiest to adjust dog in the business. b. We did have a problem with the 7x14 with water weeping around the gasket (between the glass) (Our epdm gasket surrounds the glass). All other sizes do not have this problem. We solved the problem by putting sealer within the gasket and moving the cams slightly closer together. We think that with both the cam adjustment and the upper hinge adjustment that we have the best gasket seal on the market. We have no control over the amount of gap in the cutout or what kind of sealant is used (there are several good industrial sealants that do not cost $13.00 per tube). If you have a large gap between the spigot and the cutout then there are several effective ways of filling the gap besides using soft sealant. US Paint has an filled epoxy that is sandable. We also can special order the spigot to any size the customer desires. The port can be installed with a totally flush spigot or as much rain brow as you like. We will soon be offering hardwood spacers with a nice molding for those cabin sides that are under 1/2" thick. Several owners have made them themselves and the installation looks great. Our 5x12 port weighs only 10.5 lbs and the 7x14 is just 16lb which is light for a cast port. I suggest a trip to the gym if two feel heavy. I do not know of a bronze that does not tarnish in salt water atmosphere but there are now several good and long lasting clear coats on the market that can be self applied. Finally, we welcome any critique. That is how we can continue to improve our product. One last thing to the guy who says that going to a "more expensive but better stainless port". All of the stainless ports on the market have some serious down sides and indeed they are more expensive. All stainless ports on the market that I am aware of are screwed and glued (ours our bolt through. The fabricated stainless port has a very sharp sealing edge which rapidly removes the elasticity in the gasket. Our firt port from 1979 still seals. This forum was pointed out to me by an owner who suggested that I respond. I hope that I have not offended Rgds Richard Walcome
I would like to respond to a few points made in this recent forum concerning our ports lights. Our ports (New Found Metals) are now installed on nearly 1500 boats of all types. We regularly make improvments and change things as we spot problems or problems are pointed out by our customers. Let me first address the issue of the cam closer. We use removable loctite in the threads of the adjuster to keep it from acting with the cam closer This is effective in keeping the adjuster in place. A few ports have gone out without the loctite. This is an easy fix as just a few drops of blue loctite fixes the problem. We have also since added space internally in the cam. This now gives our port the most rapid to close and easiest to adjust dog in the business. b. We did have a problem with the 7x14 with water weeping around the gasket (between the glass) (Our epdm gasket surrounds the glass). All other sizes do not have this problem. We solved the problem by putting sealer within the gasket and moving the cams slightly closer together. We think that with both the cam adjustment and the upper hinge adjustment that we have the best gasket seal on the market. We have no control over the amount of gap in the cutout or what kind of sealant is used (there are several good industrial sealants that do not cost $13.00 per tube). If you have a large gap between the spigot and the cutout then there are several effective ways of filling the gap besides using soft sealant. US Paint has an filled epoxy that is sandable. We also can special order the spigot to any size the customer desires. The port can be installed with a totally flush spigot or as much rain brow as you like. We will soon be offering hardwood spacers with a nice molding for those cabin sides that are under 1/2" thick. Several owners have made them themselves and the installation looks great. Our 5x12 port weighs only 10.5 lbs and the 7x14 is just 16lb which is light for a cast port. I suggest a trip to the gym if two feel heavy. I do not know of a bronze that does not tarnish in salt water atmosphere but there are now several good and long lasting clear coats on the market that can be self applied. Finally, we welcome any critique. That is how we can continue to improve our product. One last thing to the guy who says that going to a "more expensive but better stainless port". All of the stainless ports on the market have some serious down sides and indeed they are more expensive. All stainless ports on the market that I am aware of are screwed and glued (ours our bolt through. The fabricated stainless port has a very sharp sealing edge which rapidly removes the elasticity in the gasket. Our firt port from 1979 still seals. This forum was pointed out to me by an owner who suggested that I respond. I hope that I have not offended Rgds Richard Walcome
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Capt Jeff
Surplus Bomar Ports and Hatches at Wholesale Price
Check out the Thrifty Mariner in Tampa FL, He carries all Surplus BOMAR and Gray Portlights and Hatches at Wholesale Prices!!! He also carries Older parts(knobs,screens,trim rings) for the Older Gray Industries Items. 813-625-8466 or www.thriftymariner.com
Check out the Thrifty Mariner in Tampa FL, He carries all Surplus BOMAR and Gray Portlights and Hatches at Wholesale Prices!!! He also carries Older parts(knobs,screens,trim rings) for the Older Gray Industries Items. 813-625-8466 or www.thriftymariner.com
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