Port light/windows 1979 Hunter 27

Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
This post is to document the removal and reinstallation of port windows and answer some questions along the way. I started replacing the leaky Port windows this week. I read a few posts about the great replacements out there ie new found metals and the ones sold on the site ectera, however went with the "cheap" windows on amazon at $34 a piece with no screens. 4 windows is basically the price of one window. I feel they can't leak worse than the ones I have now but time will tell and I couldnt rationalize installing 4 windows that cost more than what I paid for my 40 year old boat.

The old windows came out very easy with a stiff puddy knife and a sheetrock knife. I used a gasket scraper on the silicon. I did have to widen the existing hole by 3/4inch with a multitool. I have only dry fitted them so far. What type of silicon is recommended I bought 5200 but I saw others recommend other products.
The core was surprisingly not mushy but it was damp and has since dried on the surface at least. Should I epoxy the opening and reinstall or can i just use tyvek tape to make a seal around the opening. I plan on working on the windows more this weekend and updating the post. If anyone can provide recommendation on silicon or thoughts on tyvek tape or rubberized tape over the core I would appreciate it vs epoxying with 610
thanks
chris
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Nov 8, 2007
1,523
Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio
I epoxied the wood when my windows were out, and thickened it to fill larger gaps.

If you use 5200, you will never get the windows out again, regardless of any issues you ma have. I used silicone, and the repair has now lasted 8 years. By the way, I was able to remove and reuse the original plastic windows.
 
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Likes: ggrizzard
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
I epoxied the wood when my windows were out, and thickened it to fill larger gaps.

If you use 5200, you will never get the windows out again, regardless of any issues you ma have. I used silicone, and the repair has now lasted 8 years. By the way, I was able to remove and reuse the original plastic windows.
thanks for the response silicone it is. my windows were unusable broken tabs cracked flanges ectera.
 

Db421

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Jun 7, 2004
88
Hunter 34 1986 Lake Lanier, GA
Do not use silicone. Butyl tape isuch better option.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,023
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
I did this project five or six years ago with the like for like port lites sold on this site. The sealant recommended by the manufacturer of those port lites is Dow 795 Structural Silicon. You probably won’t find it at Home Depot. I ordered mine on-line from a company called Mudd Supply. That said, do the installation instructions for the port lites you bought recommend a sealant? Do NOT use 3m 5200. It’s “the devil’s glue” and should never be used on something you will ever need to remove or re-bed in the future.
I sealed my plywood core edges with epoxy. I actually removed the old port lites in November under the shrink wrap, let the core dry out through a cold dry Chicago winter, then sealed the core edges and installed the new portlites in April after six months of dry out time. I wish you had more time to let the core dry out, but I think I would still go ahead and seal the edges with epoxy now.