Port Holes

[jorgefife]

I knew there was a vicious storm last night, so I slept at the boat and enjoyed every bit of it: the rocking, lurching
and the rain/lightning
What I did not enjoy is that I found a number of leaks that I cannot fathom where they come fronm (I suspect toe rail bolts), but I found that one of the dogs broke from the inside ring, and it leaks there: I am referring to the dog that screwd/tightens on to the inside lense: it is no longer there, it broke, and as a result it does not tighten on that corner
My question: can that ring be replaced?
Or do I have to buy the whole thing, lense included?
I hope my question came out clear

 

[Phil Herring]

Hi Jorge,

Chances are you've got Grey ports, and we offer all the various parts that are available. Go to http://shop.hunterowners.com and either call the number or click the Customer Service link. We'll get you fixed up.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

I have a 79 H33 on which I have recently replaced all the portlight lenses and many of the dogs. You should be able to tighten the nut with a pliers until you get a new dog, unless it is already tightened down to the tab. You can see this visually. If it is tightened down to the tab, you need to replace the gasket rimming the lens also. These parts are also available from Pompanette, which you can google, if this site doesn't have any of it. You will need to tell them the exact dimensions of the lens. BTW, the new dogs don't use the old nuts, as the plastic dog itself is threaded. You will remove the old nut entirely and screw the new dog directly on to the bolt.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Oh yeah, your other leaks are most likely from where the chainplates pass through the deck. It is an easy fix. Simply unscrew the four screws in the bracket on the deck. Clean out and re-caulk with 5200.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Hi Jorge, here is a direct link to this site's store where you can find the parts for the Gray portlights: http://shop.hunterowners.com/category.htm?cat=2005 . You will probably need both the rubber gaskets and the dogs.

Toerail bolts and chainplates are both leak sources. Toerail leaks just drip straight down the sides and don't travel much. Chainplate leaks can ruin the bulkheads where they are attached. And the water will travel in the coring and ruin the decks. But I have to disagree with Stephen about the 5200. I use silcone because it stays flexible and the chainplates do flex. I do them every couple of years. Mine have a cover and I have to remove the shroud to get the cover up. So I do one at a time. I dig out the old silcone and replace. 5200 is permanent but will flex away from the coring and let water in eventually. And if you ever have to replace a chainplate I don't think you will get it out if you use 5200.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

... But I have to disagree with Stephen about the 5200. I use silcone because it stays flexible and the chainplates do flex. I do them every couple of years. Mine have a cover and I have to remove the shroud to get the cover up. So I do one at a time. I dig out the old silcone and replace. 5200 is permanent but will flex away from the coring and let water in eventually. And if you ever have to replace a chainplate I don't think you will get it out if you use 5200.

Maybe you're right in general, but the last time I did it I used 5200. 5 out of 6 are still holding after four years. I just re-did the 6th which was leaking and the previous 5200 came right out.

 

[Ed Schenck]

How much are you using Stephen? I dig way deep around the chainplate and fill all around. Maybe a little 5200 around the top will come out. But if it came out that easily then it is not grabbing the stainless enough. Silicone really seals around the stainless.

 

[Blaise]

I disagree with both Stephen and Ed. I think the best material to use is Lifecaulk. Just my opinion. Also, most Hunter 37's also leak from the eyebrow fasteners because they were put on without caulk. At least the three 79's I have seen. Both the cabin top teak handrails and the teak eyebrow were replaced on my boat in 1995, which fixed the problem.

 

[jorgefife]

I disagree with both Stephen and Ed. I think the best material to use is Lifecaulk. Just my opinion. Also, most Hunter 37's also leak from the eyebrow fasteners because they were put on without caulk. At least the three 79's I have seen. Both the cabin top teak handrails and the teak eyebrow were replaced on my boat in 1995, which fixed the problem.

Still digesting all the great info , but Steve, I must pint out that the screw where the dog is attached broke clean off from the inner ring, so I have nothing to attach to the inner lense

While on the subject of leaks: my forward hatch also leaks: should I replace the gasket ( very hard and brittle), or do I shave the existing one, and then attach a foam sealer to it?

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Still digesting all the great info , but Steve, I must pint out that the screw where the dog is attached broke clean off from the inner ring, so I have nothing to attach to the inner lense...

So the question is, what broke? Was it the pin that the screw (bolt, actually) attaches to or the bolt itself, or was it the actual plastic on the portlight trim (where the bolt attaches) that broke? If it is one of the first two, those parts are available. If the latter, you need to replace the entire portlight.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

How much are you using Stephen? I dig way deep around the chainplate and fill all around. Maybe a little 5200 around the top will come out. But if it came out that easily then it is not grabbing the stainless enough. Silicone really seals around the stainless.

I only go down to the wood and didn't dig any out, which I think is no more than half an inch from the top of the deck. But it's holding up for four years and more. Should it last longer?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Jorge, there was a post not too long ago showing a fix for where the plastic stud mounting was repaired. If I recall the stud is a 'T' where the cross-bar fits into two plastic standoffs. As Stephen points out those plastic thingies break off. But you can grind both flat and replace with a metal bracket. I will try to find that post later.

Stephen, if your 5200 is doing that well for you I guess that is the answer. I also use LifeCaulk for a lot of things. But silicone has worked really well for me, both for the chainplates and for the mast seal(keel-stepped).

 

[jorgefife]

Jorge, there was a post not too long ago showing a fix for where the plastic stud mounting was repaired. If I recall the stud is a 'T' where the cross-bar fits into two plastic standoffs. As Stephen points out those plastic thingies break off. But you can grind both flat and replace with a metal bracket. I will try to find that post later.

Stephen, if your 5200 is doing that well for you I guess that is the answer. I also use LifeCaulk for a lot of things. But silicone has worked really well for me, both for the chainplates and for the mast seal(keel-stepped).

Stephen
What broke was the iner plastic trim, to which the bolt/dog was attached to
In other words, there is no bolt or dog there, so that side cannot tighten

 

[jorgefife]

Stephen
What broke was the iner plastic trim, to which the bolt/dog was attached to
In other words, there is no bolt or dog there, so that side cannot tighten

Dear Ed,
I like the idea of the silicone, because it is flexible
If I remember correctly, last year I did the plates ( or rather, under them) with 4200
Any brand of silicone you can recommend?

 

[sandpiper10471]

I would stay away from the silicone. Complete removal is really difficult in the event of paint/gelcoat/repair etc. at a later date. I suggest 4200 or one of the Sikaflex products. Or even butyl caulking will work.
My 33 also leaked under the mast base where the wires come in. Also every hatch mounting, handrails, turning blocks etc. In fact, anywhere a fitting punctured the deck, she leaked.
You can rebed all you like but if the substrate is wet then no caulking is going to adhere to it. Must dig out all the wet stuff and replace it with dry -new wood, thickened epoxy etc.

 

[rardiH36]

Jorge:

You have also mentioned that you suspect toe rail bolts as another possible leak point.

Here is the text of a post from a ways back that might be useful. There's a good chance that the toe rail bolts have never been tightened since manufacture.

I recognize this is a Cherubini 37 thread, but in case some H36 Cherubini owners are lurking as I am, its the same on the my 1980 Cherubini H36. All the bolts are accessable (except for a couple). When I bought my boat 3.5 years ago, I found some water was entering during rain and also when sailing with waves sometimes over the rail. Solution was to clamp the toe rail bolt heads from the deck side with vice grips wedged against the toe rail. Then using a deep socket, various socket extension fittings, and a universal swivel attachment, tighten the nuts from underneath. The wedged vice grips kept the bolt itself from turning and breaking the caulk seal. (Would have been easier with a second person on deck with a phillips head screw driver to prevent the bolt from turning. But I didn't have a second person that day.). Virtually all the bolts easily were cinched up at least a turn or two before feeling snug. After tightening, the water leaks have stopped completely for the past three years. Interestingly even after 30 years since construction, still pliable caulk was forced out from under the toe rail in places. I think it was probably butyl tape. Another benefit of tightening the toe rail bolts, and hence also the deck to hull joint: I no longer have various cracking noises when I cinch in the jib sheets tight. (Jib sheets are led through snap blocks on the toe rail)

 

[Ed Schenck]

Bill(Sandpiper) makes another good case for silicone. It doesn't care if you have wet core around those chainplates. And most of us do. I build it up a little under that cover and no way is water getting in. What sold me on silicone was when I replaced the old Gray portlights. The silicone sealant was still pliable after all those years. I think all the silicone sealants are the same but I use the clear BoatLife: (http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...11&familyName=Boatlife+Marine+Silicone+Rubber)