I've posted this quiz a couple of times before but since new mates are frequently joining the fold I thought I'd post it again. In a couple of days, I'll post the answers. I give this quiz to seminar participant at the beginning of my lecture. Most don't do very well with it, and that includes the guys that have been sailing for many years, but at the end of the lecture they can easily answer all the questions. In fact, at the end of the session,I can give them any wind speed and point of sail and they can give me the settings for all the controls on the main and the jib!! Here's the scenario, which is very common one. What setting would you use for the mainsail controls going to windward in 1 to 3 knots of wind? Let's make it realistic. Assume your on your boat in those condition. You have 2 minutes to issue sail trim adjustment command to your crew. 1) Traveler - where is it placed on the track? 2) Mainsheet - how much tension and why? 3) Halyard - how much tension and why? 4) Outhaul - how much tension and why? 5) Cunningham - how much tension? 6) Vang - how much tension and what else could you do to help shape your sail? 7) Draft depth - what %? 8) Draft Position - what position on the boom? (range is 30% to 60%) 9) Telltails - what are the leech and center telltails suppose to be doing? 10) Mast bend - how much? 11) Batten - where should the top batten be pointing? 12) Leechline - how much tension? 13) Crew position - what side and where on the boat? 14) Twist - how much? Again, the whole idea of this exercise is to see where you stand and what you have to concentrate on. Also, I could have thrown in the jib but let's keep it simple.
- Status
Now for a serious shot
Well in 1-3 kts going to windward I would carry the main very flat with no twist and the boom low of center pointing the top batten at the breeze. Have the crew tiptoe to leeward so as not to make any motion to the boat and hike out. Ease the genny sheets not to choke it and trim in very gently by hand as the boat speed builds. Also steering a course 8 to 10 degrees lower than usual.
Well in 1-3 kts going to windward I would carry the main very flat with no twist and the boom low of center pointing the top batten at the breeze. Have the crew tiptoe to leeward so as not to make any motion to the boat and hike out. Ease the genny sheets not to choke it and trim in very gently by hand as the boat speed builds. Also steering a course 8 to 10 degrees lower than usual.
Don, to make it realistic and avoid
Darylisms, you have to add another assumption being: you are following another similarly configured boat 100 yards off your bow, that is 10 feet longer and cost $100,000 more than your boat. Now, get cracking. I'll give this some thought on my commute now and be back tonight. No one should "peek" at replies until you have posted, except Daryl. Fred, have you been braving the weather and getting out on Puget Sound, it been two weeks for me.
Darylisms, you have to add another assumption being: you are following another similarly configured boat 100 yards off your bow, that is 10 feet longer and cost $100,000 more than your boat. Now, get cracking. I'll give this some thought on my commute now and be back tonight. No one should "peek" at replies until you have posted, except Daryl. Fred, have you been braving the weather and getting out on Puget Sound, it been two weeks for me.
OK, suppose the engine wasn't working and you were trying to fight your way off a lee shore. In other words, everything turned to crap on you and the only means of propulsion you have at your disposal is the sails (isn't that why we bought a sail boat and that was to sail it?). You could drop anchor and call the tow company but before you do that you could attempt to get out of the situation on your own. The point I'm trying to make is you have all these controls for the main and jib at your finger tips and you can get some forward motion from the boat even in these light conditions. If your a racer in these conditions, I can can move you up about 3 positions with the answers I'm about to provide shortly. This very situation happened to me off Huntington Beach, Ca a number of years ago with a Catalina 25. The motor swamped and I was singled handed (actually my wife was with me but she was not much help. All she was doing was yelling at me to get us out of there - like what do you think I'm trying to do!!). Anchoring was my last resort. After my rear end stopped puckering and I got my mind together I merely sailed it out to open water. Actually, it was easier said than done but I did get out of the situation. If you own a sail boat you should know how to sail out of every situation. The alternative is a twin screw power boat. Chances are, no matter what happens, you might have at least one engine to get you home.
Other Options
1) lower the zodiac off the davits, start the motor and tow it to an anchorage. Then have a blender party and listen to Jimmy Buffett until the wind builds. break out the sun screen and get naked. 2) dial 1 800 4SEATOW 3) see if your flair gun works 4) flag down a Bayray for a tow 5) good time to do some fishing
1) lower the zodiac off the davits, start the motor and tow it to an anchorage. Then have a blender party and listen to Jimmy Buffett until the wind builds. break out the sun screen and get naked. 2) dial 1 800 4SEATOW 3) see if your flair gun works 4) flag down a Bayray for a tow 5) good time to do some fishing
Light air sail trim
*!I was taught that sailing to windward in light air that anything that tends to flatten the main sail, minimize twist and maintain the center of moment amidships will help increase power in the sail and boat speed. So that being said I would place the traveler in the center of the track or just slightly to windward of center. Mainsheet would be set slightly loose to minimize twist. Main Halyard would be eased until draft position is just slightly aft of boom center. This is done to decrease (camber) resistance to air flow on the leeward side of the sail and lower stall point. Outhaul tightened until draft depth is minimal. Vang loose to keep draft position aft. Cunningham, I would guess should also be loose too although I have never actually sailed a boat that had one. Draft Depth should be minimal (1-2"). Draft position should be slightly aft of boom center (50-55%). The center telltales should both be flowing back smoothly as an indicator of good air flow (max power) across windward and leeward faces of the sail since this is what is generating the power. Ease or pinch helm gently to maintain air flow (lift). Minimal mast bend because this will minimize sail depth. Battens should lie parallel along plane of the boom as an indication of a flat sheet. Leechline should be as tight as you can get it. Crew should move slowly to leeward to counterbalance any tendency to shift the center of moment windward. Twist should be as minimal as can be achieved. If wind begins to increase dramatically then increase twist to reduce power and spill air. I find that a slow and gentle touch at the helm is also very important to not disturbing delicate balance.
*!I was taught that sailing to windward in light air that anything that tends to flatten the main sail, minimize twist and maintain the center of moment amidships will help increase power in the sail and boat speed. So that being said I would place the traveler in the center of the track or just slightly to windward of center. Mainsheet would be set slightly loose to minimize twist. Main Halyard would be eased until draft position is just slightly aft of boom center. This is done to decrease (camber) resistance to air flow on the leeward side of the sail and lower stall point. Outhaul tightened until draft depth is minimal. Vang loose to keep draft position aft. Cunningham, I would guess should also be loose too although I have never actually sailed a boat that had one. Draft Depth should be minimal (1-2"). Draft position should be slightly aft of boom center (50-55%). The center telltales should both be flowing back smoothly as an indicator of good air flow (max power) across windward and leeward faces of the sail since this is what is generating the power. Ease or pinch helm gently to maintain air flow (lift). Minimal mast bend because this will minimize sail depth. Battens should lie parallel along plane of the boom as an indication of a flat sheet. Leechline should be as tight as you can get it. Crew should move slowly to leeward to counterbalance any tendency to shift the center of moment windward. Twist should be as minimal as can be achieved. If wind begins to increase dramatically then increase twist to reduce power and spill air. I find that a slow and gentle touch at the helm is also very important to not disturbing delicate balance.
Jerry: Excellent! You go to the head of the group. You have an excellant grasp of WHAT to do and, more importantly, WHY you are making a particular sail trim adjustemnt. My goal is that everyone knows WHY they are making a particular sail trim adjustment. I've been on so many boats where the skipper says "adjust the outhaul". He doesn't say which way or how much and more importantly says nothing about the other controls that are involved. It like adjusting one barrell on a 4 barrell carb and wondering why the engine doesn't run right!!
Pop Answers
1. Traveler:I'm going to go all the way to leward, no wait hmmmmmmmmm OK I'm going to go to windward to get the boom to rise a little. This is a total guess. 2. Mainsheet; not much tension, light air light trim is my creed. Again I think I want a little twist at the top. 3,4,5: Halyard, outhaul cunningham: halyard and outhaul slacked and cunningham tensioned, to make a full or "fat" sail shape with a big pocket down low. Gut says I don't want a flat sail in light air. 6. Vang: slack, unless there is vessel traffic that would bounce the boom around, then some tension just to stabilize. 7 and 8: Draft depth/postion: I fess up to my ignorance. Big wind you want this thing forward, so I am going to go with aft postion and I want a big draft % ? 9. Telltails: center flutters and leech streams ( a total guess) 10; Mast bend, I'll go with a yes, because will "pooch " out the sail at the leech with little tension on the sheet/vang. 11 Top batten pointing into apparent wind because I think this will look right. 12 Leech line; a little tension to make slight pocket shape in sail. 13 Crew postion, aft and to lee side to get a little heel. 14 Twist: I would twist and shout if the above trim now has the boat stopped. I think we want some twist. OK, thats my story and I am sticking to it . . . for five minutes
1. Traveler:I'm going to go all the way to leward, no wait hmmmmmmmmm OK I'm going to go to windward to get the boom to rise a little. This is a total guess. 2. Mainsheet; not much tension, light air light trim is my creed. Again I think I want a little twist at the top. 3,4,5: Halyard, outhaul cunningham: halyard and outhaul slacked and cunningham tensioned, to make a full or "fat" sail shape with a big pocket down low. Gut says I don't want a flat sail in light air. 6. Vang: slack, unless there is vessel traffic that would bounce the boom around, then some tension just to stabilize. 7 and 8: Draft depth/postion: I fess up to my ignorance. Big wind you want this thing forward, so I am going to go with aft postion and I want a big draft % ? 9. Telltails: center flutters and leech streams ( a total guess) 10; Mast bend, I'll go with a yes, because will "pooch " out the sail at the leech with little tension on the sheet/vang. 11 Top batten pointing into apparent wind because I think this will look right. 12 Leech line; a little tension to make slight pocket shape in sail. 13 Crew postion, aft and to lee side to get a little heel. 14 Twist: I would twist and shout if the above trim now has the boat stopped. I think we want some twist. OK, thats my story and I am sticking to it . . . for five minutes
I should have cheated
or gotten some notes from Jerry, but hey I am educatable, but for now I just going below and hide for the week end. Don, are there any extra credit assignments, such as sanding hand rails?
or gotten some notes from Jerry, but hey I am educatable, but for now I just going below and hide for the week end. Don, are there any extra credit assignments, such as sanding hand rails?
Scott: Just a couple of comments before I post the answers, which collectively came from Dennis Conners, Gary Jobson, Steve Colgate, North Sails and over 50 various writer in sailing magazines. As you can see I don't make this stuff up. On mast bend - when you bend the mast your actually taking the fullnes out of the sail. To demonstate what is happening just bend your finger and notice how the knuckle goes back. That action is taking the fullness out of the center of the sail and making it flat. In lite winds you actually want a relativley flat sail sail (in very lite wind wind you want it as flat as you can get it)and the reason is that the wind does not have enough power to get a round the sail so if you induce draft depth (belly) your making matters worse. Twist is a power robber so you want as little as possable. The wind does not have much power so you want to conserve as much of it as you can in lite conditions. Telltails - I'm going to do a session on reading them. I devote 7 pages in my book to reading them. There is no better non electronic sail trim devise on the boat to determine when and how much of an adjustment need to be made. Sadly, a lot of mates don't even have them. I can't trim without them.
Answers
1. Traveler to windward. 2. Mainsheet should not be too tight but use the traveler to get the boom close to center line. 3. Halyard - Tighten till you just get a crease in the sail behind the mast. When you start to sail the crease should disappear. Wrinkles - a few would be OK in this situation. 4.Outhaul - Not too tight so as to add some belly at the foot of the sail. 5. Draft Pos - Don't know about 60% back from luff. Pretty full 6. Telltails- I'd be happy if I got a little bit of stream out of the uppermost teltail. Don't know if the center would be moving in this air. 7. Not much mast bend if it is bendable. 8. Top batten parallel to the boom- maybe a little off for light air. 9. Leechline - tighten until leech just stops flutter. Should not be tight at all. 10. Crew position to leeward to help heel the boat. 11. Not much twist up high.
1. Traveler to windward. 2. Mainsheet should not be too tight but use the traveler to get the boom close to center line. 3. Halyard - Tighten till you just get a crease in the sail behind the mast. When you start to sail the crease should disappear. Wrinkles - a few would be OK in this situation. 4.Outhaul - Not too tight so as to add some belly at the foot of the sail. 5. Draft Pos - Don't know about 60% back from luff. Pretty full 6. Telltails- I'd be happy if I got a little bit of stream out of the uppermost teltail. Don't know if the center would be moving in this air. 7. Not much mast bend if it is bendable. 8. Top batten parallel to the boom- maybe a little off for light air. 9. Leechline - tighten until leech just stops flutter. Should not be tight at all. 10. Crew position to leeward to help heel the boat. 11. Not much twist up high.
Mates: Here's the answers. As I mentioned, they came collectively from Dennis Conners, Steve Colgate, Gary Jobson, North Sails and over 50 various authors in sailing magazines. I've just condensed their views. 1) Traveler slightly windward of center. 2) Mainsheet should be eased slightly to provide minum twist. 3)Halyard should be eased slightly. The draft position should be aft - 55%. 4)Outhaul should be eased slightly because you need a fuller bottom. 5)The cunnigham should have zero tension. You've controlled the luff with the halyard. 6)The vang should have zero tension. In fact, use the topping lift to hold the boom up slightly. 7)Draft depth should be about 15%. 8)Draft position should be about 55%. 9)Top leech telltails should just begin to flow. If the top disappears then the sheet is too tight. The mainsail center telltails, which are both located in the center of the main, should both be streaming. 10)Mast should be straight with no bend. 11)The top batten should be parallel to the boom but can point slightly to weather. 12)The leechline should be tight. 13)The crew position should be to leeward and forward. 14)Twist should be minimum. Next time you out in these conditions, try these settings and see how they do for you.
Pop Quiz -
David: Nice job mate. You hit it pretty well right on. Try some of the suggestions I mentioned and see how they work for you. In your case you might have to wait til next year!!
David: Nice job mate. You hit it pretty well right on. Try some of the suggestions I mentioned and see how they work for you. In your case you might have to wait til next year!!
- Status