Anyone with suggestions on how to remove old Poly Glow? I've tried Poly Prep and Acetone with no luck.
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try hexane
it isn't very toxic and won't damage the glass/gelcoat. It should work where acetone didn't
it isn't very toxic and won't damage the glass/gelcoat. It should work where acetone didn't
Krud Kutter
This stuff will remove poli glo, I found out the hard way last spring. I was trying to clean my Diesel smile off the boat, and thought this would do the trick, it not only removed the carbon stain but also the ploi. I couldn't leave it half stripped of so i did the entire stern. Spray it on let it set a minute and wipe it off. you can find it at Home Depot in the paint removal dept. After i used it the stern was clean so i just used wax and buffed it up, it did come out nice. you also should have a water hose to rinse it off as you go along. Good luck
This stuff will remove poli glo, I found out the hard way last spring. I was trying to clean my Diesel smile off the boat, and thought this would do the trick, it not only removed the carbon stain but also the ploi. I couldn't leave it half stripped of so i did the entire stern. Spray it on let it set a minute and wipe it off. you can find it at Home Depot in the paint removal dept. After i used it the stern was clean so i just used wax and buffed it up, it did come out nice. you also should have a water hose to rinse it off as you go along. Good luck
curious
Tom, is there something you don't like about the poli glo finish? Have you called poli glo about how to get it off?
Tom, is there something you don't like about the poli glo finish? Have you called poli glo about how to get it off?
ammonia
My boat (81 Hunter 31) had polyglow on it when we bought it. My experience has been that it works very well on the hull. I have had several oxidized boats and buffing and waxing is certainly harder then applying polyglow to the hull. But on the areas of the deck not covered by non-skid I found it impossible to keep in good condition. The sun degrades this product and it start showing through very quickly. Note that it darkens over time so every couple of years I remove most of it from the hull and reapply. I have found the polyprep works for my purposes of removing the majority of the build up. I can then reapply two coats and the hull looks very nice for a couple of years. I do not even attempt to remove all of it, but just the surface coats which seem to be what darkens. this consists of just a scrub with polyprep, dry, and then two coats of polyglow. This usually takes about 6 hours to do by myself. As for the deck....I have been working at removing the polyglow there for the last year during summer weekends. I found that it takes a very concerted effort over a small (1sq yard) area with generous amounts of ployprep and the scrub pad supplied with the product. But with several applications I have removed all but some areas near crevices and such. Note that polyprep seems to be a mix of a detergent and ammonia. Just like many floor waxes it is the ammonia that dissolves the acrylic bonding agent in polyprep. I would recommend, but have not tried, adding ammonia to the mix. Also, after removal the surface is not very glossy. In my case it is mostly caused by the oxidized gell of my old boat, but the scrubbing pad does not leave a glossy surface. So a good deal of buffing and polishing will be required to restore the surface. I have not gotten to that step yet. It took me at least 10 hours so far to remove the polyglow from all areas except the inside of the cockpit. I do this on windless summer days when there is not much else to do. I will get to the cockpit this coming spring and then start the buffing. In summary, I recommend polyglow for the hull above the waterline. I do not recommend it for the deck and certainly would never put it on the non-skid. And remember I believe ammonia is the key ingredient to the removal. IMHO
My boat (81 Hunter 31) had polyglow on it when we bought it. My experience has been that it works very well on the hull. I have had several oxidized boats and buffing and waxing is certainly harder then applying polyglow to the hull. But on the areas of the deck not covered by non-skid I found it impossible to keep in good condition. The sun degrades this product and it start showing through very quickly. Note that it darkens over time so every couple of years I remove most of it from the hull and reapply. I have found the polyprep works for my purposes of removing the majority of the build up. I can then reapply two coats and the hull looks very nice for a couple of years. I do not even attempt to remove all of it, but just the surface coats which seem to be what darkens. this consists of just a scrub with polyprep, dry, and then two coats of polyglow. This usually takes about 6 hours to do by myself. As for the deck....I have been working at removing the polyglow there for the last year during summer weekends. I found that it takes a very concerted effort over a small (1sq yard) area with generous amounts of ployprep and the scrub pad supplied with the product. But with several applications I have removed all but some areas near crevices and such. Note that polyprep seems to be a mix of a detergent and ammonia. Just like many floor waxes it is the ammonia that dissolves the acrylic bonding agent in polyprep. I would recommend, but have not tried, adding ammonia to the mix. Also, after removal the surface is not very glossy. In my case it is mostly caused by the oxidized gell of my old boat, but the scrubbing pad does not leave a glossy surface. So a good deal of buffing and polishing will be required to restore the surface. I have not gotten to that step yet. It took me at least 10 hours so far to remove the polyglow from all areas except the inside of the cockpit. I do this on windless summer days when there is not much else to do. I will get to the cockpit this coming spring and then start the buffing. In summary, I recommend polyglow for the hull above the waterline. I do not recommend it for the deck and certainly would never put it on the non-skid. And remember I believe ammonia is the key ingredient to the removal. IMHO
Acrylic Remover
I've used them all - Poliglow, Vertglas, New Glass II, ... and Poliglow is the best. Once while trying to clean diesel snot off my transom a friend sprayed BLACK STREAK REMOVER that disolved the finish. You can buy this at Worst (West) Marine, RV stores of Walmart. Was easier than wet sanding which I did the first time
I've used them all - Poliglow, Vertglas, New Glass II, ... and Poliglow is the best. Once while trying to clean diesel snot off my transom a friend sprayed BLACK STREAK REMOVER that disolved the finish. You can buy this at Worst (West) Marine, RV stores of Walmart. Was easier than wet sanding which I did the first time
Wax Stripper
I used commercial grade floor wax stripper. When we purchased our boat it looked awful because of and old coat of poly glow. The broker recommended using commerical floor wax stripper. It worked great and was very easy. I used a sponge mop to apply the stripper. Waited a few minutes and then hosed it off. The difference was like night and day. Hope this helps.
I used commercial grade floor wax stripper. When we purchased our boat it looked awful because of and old coat of poly glow. The broker recommended using commerical floor wax stripper. It worked great and was very easy. I used a sponge mop to apply the stripper. Waited a few minutes and then hosed it off. The difference was like night and day. Hope this helps.
Morning Tom:
If you put it on yourself, ignore this question. Are you sure it's polyglow? I've been a polyglow user for several years now on 1983 boat and the poly prep (blue stuff) has never failed to strip it off when I'm on one of my redo it jags. If you are sure it's polyglow and the prep won't take it off, you do need to contact the business for advice. Luck!
If you put it on yourself, ignore this question. Are you sure it's polyglow? I've been a polyglow user for several years now on 1983 boat and the poly prep (blue stuff) has never failed to strip it off when I'm on one of my redo it jags. If you are sure it's polyglow and the prep won't take it off, you do need to contact the business for advice. Luck!
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