I'm the proud owner of a newly purchased '79 H33. I've spent numerous hours reworking virtually all the systems. Now I'm on to the running/anchor lights so I can finally get underway for a few weekend trips on the Chesapeake. I shimmied myself up the mast 2 times now, once with replacement bulbs for the masthead light and anchor light hoping for the easy fix. No lights. The second time with amp meter and replacement lights. The amp meter showed only 8 volts are making it up the mast in each location. I tested the wires in the bilge before they shoot-up the mast and they test at 12 volts. I really, really, do not want to take the mast down for a complete rewiring until the end of the season. I've read the archives and everything ends with this as the only possibility. Any suggestions for quick fixes or temporary solutions to get me through the summer?
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new wires
Would it be possible to use one of the existing wires, that you're going to abandon, as a pulling wire to pull new wires up the mast? You could possibly tie/tape the new wires to an old one and use that to pull the new ones up (or down) the mast. Morrie
Would it be possible to use one of the existing wires, that you're going to abandon, as a pulling wire to pull new wires up the mast? You could possibly tie/tape the new wires to an old one and use that to pull the new ones up (or down) the mast. Morrie
Check for corrosion
Marvin, if you can measure 12V at the base and 8V at the top, there are only a few possible reasons: Broken strands would limit the amount of current flow and show a reduction of voltage at the end of the line (same problem as under sizing the wire size for the lenght of the run.) The other possibility ( I don't know if you measured on the wires or light contacts at the top) is corrosion. The light fixture contacts and/or wire connections of the light assemblies to their respective wire runs may be corrode thus limiting the voltage available for the light. Any corrosion area is resistance and any resistance results in voltage drop. I had the same problem on my steaming light and ended up changing the complete fixture. You should remove the fixtures, check for corrosion and measure at the end of the wires at the top to see if you have a drop. Corrosion in the interconnection at the bottom of the mast could also be a suspect. Hope this helps, Richard 79 H37C Rhapsodie
Marvin, if you can measure 12V at the base and 8V at the top, there are only a few possible reasons: Broken strands would limit the amount of current flow and show a reduction of voltage at the end of the line (same problem as under sizing the wire size for the lenght of the run.) The other possibility ( I don't know if you measured on the wires or light contacts at the top) is corrosion. The light fixture contacts and/or wire connections of the light assemblies to their respective wire runs may be corrode thus limiting the voltage available for the light. Any corrosion area is resistance and any resistance results in voltage drop. I had the same problem on my steaming light and ended up changing the complete fixture. You should remove the fixtures, check for corrosion and measure at the end of the wires at the top to see if you have a drop. Corrosion in the interconnection at the bottom of the mast could also be a suspect. Hope this helps, Richard 79 H37C Rhapsodie
Richard
Thanks for the thoughts and input. As a matter of fact, I did measure the voltage of the mast light through the existing fixture which is definitely corroded. That would definitely explain that one. However, I completely removed the anchor light and checked the voltage on fresh wire there, and it was still 8v. Is it possible that the the voltage reduction at the mast head light is also the cause of the reduction at the anchor light? I'm not certain, but I thought they were on separate switches. If so, I guess they don't share wire and one wouldn't affect the other. Also, I'm not getting a read from the wind transducer at the top of the mast. Might this be a sign of a larger problem with wires such as a wiring harness? Thanks much.
Thanks for the thoughts and input. As a matter of fact, I did measure the voltage of the mast light through the existing fixture which is definitely corroded. That would definitely explain that one. However, I completely removed the anchor light and checked the voltage on fresh wire there, and it was still 8v. Is it possible that the the voltage reduction at the mast head light is also the cause of the reduction at the anchor light? I'm not certain, but I thought they were on separate switches. If so, I guess they don't share wire and one wouldn't affect the other. Also, I'm not getting a read from the wind transducer at the top of the mast. Might this be a sign of a larger problem with wires such as a wiring harness? Thanks much.
Marvin
I am not familiar with your specific mast mounting and wiring, mine is keel stepped and I have a interconnection strip mounted in the upper bilge area that allows me to discounnect everything going up the mast when I need to pull the stick. My 1979 H37C had been sitting in dry dock for 6 years when I bought it last September, I found corrosion in all of the outside electrical connections, fixtures and mast wiring. After dismounting everything, cleaning and replacing 2 fixtures (tri-color mast lite with a combine anchor light and the steaming light), I did get everything else to work fine. Concerning your voltage drop, it is possible that both lights are sharing the same ground wire. As far as the wind transducer, there is probably an interconnection wiring strip at the base of the mast that needs attention. Eventhough you said that you measured on fresh wires, don't assume that there is not another splice somewhere else in the line with a corroded connection. In my case, I did find that my steaming light had 2 in series just before the light fixture. Richard
I am not familiar with your specific mast mounting and wiring, mine is keel stepped and I have a interconnection strip mounted in the upper bilge area that allows me to discounnect everything going up the mast when I need to pull the stick. My 1979 H37C had been sitting in dry dock for 6 years when I bought it last September, I found corrosion in all of the outside electrical connections, fixtures and mast wiring. After dismounting everything, cleaning and replacing 2 fixtures (tri-color mast lite with a combine anchor light and the steaming light), I did get everything else to work fine. Concerning your voltage drop, it is possible that both lights are sharing the same ground wire. As far as the wind transducer, there is probably an interconnection wiring strip at the base of the mast that needs attention. Eventhough you said that you measured on fresh wires, don't assume that there is not another splice somewhere else in the line with a corroded connection. In my case, I did find that my steaming light had 2 in series just before the light fixture. Richard
Lights
Not sure what you mean by a masthead light but if you will use them infrequently, I think I would go with temporary lights. The anchor light needs to be seen 2 nautical miles. Many people have been using the mega light for an anchor light eventhough it is not CG approved. I use kerosene lanterns on the end of my boom and also up front on a halyard. These give off IMO enough light at a better height than a top mounted anchor light. Also, I try and anchor in an area where other boats are anchored since I believe it to be safer than being alone where a powerboat can speed up on you. If it is the steaming light, I would spend the money and mount a new one temporarily on the mast, preferably an Aqua Signal, and run the wire down to one of those portable battery starters. At the end of the season when the mast is down, place the aqua signal where you want it, replace the wires and you have a nice backup starting battery. Those things work really well. You will also have two kersoene laterns you can use for emergencies on the boat and at home.
Not sure what you mean by a masthead light but if you will use them infrequently, I think I would go with temporary lights. The anchor light needs to be seen 2 nautical miles. Many people have been using the mega light for an anchor light eventhough it is not CG approved. I use kerosene lanterns on the end of my boom and also up front on a halyard. These give off IMO enough light at a better height than a top mounted anchor light. Also, I try and anchor in an area where other boats are anchored since I believe it to be safer than being alone where a powerboat can speed up on you. If it is the steaming light, I would spend the money and mount a new one temporarily on the mast, preferably an Aqua Signal, and run the wire down to one of those portable battery starters. At the end of the season when the mast is down, place the aqua signal where you want it, replace the wires and you have a nice backup starting battery. Those things work really well. You will also have two kersoene laterns you can use for emergencies on the boat and at home.
I have the same problem
on my 1980 33. I bought a mega light for the anchor and rigged a steaming light to the front of the mast. If you have a spinnaker lift on the front of the mast you can do as i did. I purchased a set of small fog lights for a car that have a bracket on them. Connected one of the lights to new wires and ran the light as far up the mast as possible. Then ran the wires down the front of the mast along the spinnaker lift rope to the deck then to the rail to the front hatch and down to the upper inside of the forward berth. then through the closet, under the seat and gally to the electric pannel. Where they are connected to the steaming switch. This made a workable steaming light with the additional benefit of good light on the forward deck. This will see you through until the fall take out. best of luck. The Hunter 33's mast is stepped on the deck and although I have't taken it down, it likely has a connection inside the mast to the wires at the deck step. This connection is likely bad. Something to fix next winter.
on my 1980 33. I bought a mega light for the anchor and rigged a steaming light to the front of the mast. If you have a spinnaker lift on the front of the mast you can do as i did. I purchased a set of small fog lights for a car that have a bracket on them. Connected one of the lights to new wires and ran the light as far up the mast as possible. Then ran the wires down the front of the mast along the spinnaker lift rope to the deck then to the rail to the front hatch and down to the upper inside of the forward berth. then through the closet, under the seat and gally to the electric pannel. Where they are connected to the steaming switch. This made a workable steaming light with the additional benefit of good light on the forward deck. This will see you through until the fall take out. best of luck. The Hunter 33's mast is stepped on the deck and although I have't taken it down, it likely has a connection inside the mast to the wires at the deck step. This connection is likely bad. Something to fix next winter.
Thanks all
I'm going to recheck the wiring in the forward bilge and probably go with temp lights until early winter dry dock. Thanks again.
I'm going to recheck the wiring in the forward bilge and probably go with temp lights until early winter dry dock. Thanks again.
Marvin, I have a '79 h33...
...and would like to share info with you. Email me at bartellmike@aol.com. We bought ours last year and are slowly tackling projects as we enjoy our boat. Talk to you soon.
...and would like to share info with you. Email me at bartellmike@aol.com. We bought ours last year and are slowly tackling projects as we enjoy our boat. Talk to you soon.
79 H33 mast wiring connectors
marvin, I have a 79 H33 and have recently redone all of the mast wiring. The photo below are the male sides of the connectors on my boat. Single is the anchor light, double is the steaming and deck light. They are connected and taped when the mast is stepped. Since you have voltage in the bilge, these connectors which were pretty oxidized on my boat when taken apart, seem a good possibility as a voltage loss culprit since loss is possible in the connector itself and in the wire connection to the connector. You have a great boat. I like mine more all the time.
marvin, I have a 79 H33 and have recently redone all of the mast wiring. The photo below are the male sides of the connectors on my boat. Single is the anchor light, double is the steaming and deck light. They are connected and taped when the mast is stepped. Since you have voltage in the bilge, these connectors which were pretty oxidized on my boat when taken apart, seem a good possibility as a voltage loss culprit since loss is possible in the connector itself and in the wire connection to the connector. You have a great boat. I like mine more all the time.
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