My boat is only three years old..H36. I added a second pump/float switch this weekend only to find out the wire on the original float switch corroted making it useless. If I had a leak...the boat would have been under water. I check my pump with the bypass switch, and check to see the float switch is clean...didn't occur to lift the switch at the same time to see if it works. My bilge is usually dry and so the system has not been tested for a long time. The corrosion on the wire to the switch was barely visible. I will be a little more careful next time in checking things out. abe
PLEASE CHECK YOUR BILGE PUMP/FLOAT SWITCH!!!
- Thread starter abe
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Internal switch
When my pump went (I thought, at least), I replaced it with the Rule-Mate, which has the internal float switch. After a while with it installed, I realized how much I don't like it. I used to test my pump on ocassion just by lifting the old switch. Now I have to put water in my bilge to test it. I am probably going to put the old one back in as a 2nd pump.
When my pump went (I thought, at least), I replaced it with the Rule-Mate, which has the internal float switch. After a while with it installed, I realized how much I don't like it. I used to test my pump on ocassion just by lifting the old switch. Now I have to put water in my bilge to test it. I am probably going to put the old one back in as a 2nd pump.
us too!
Hi Abe, I regularly check our pump-the switch failed after just 2 years on our '02 356. I've installed a second, larger pump (rule 2000) with it's own switch and alarm on the step above the deep sump.
Hi Abe, I regularly check our pump-the switch failed after just 2 years on our '02 356. I've installed a second, larger pump (rule 2000) with it's own switch and alarm on the step above the deep sump.
Peace of mind
About every month or so, just before locking our boat up for the week, we lift the float switch and watch it turn on the bilge pump. A few months ago, nothing happened when I did that. We checked and isolated a simple failure of the float switch itself. A quick trip to West Marine and the replacement switch was installed before we left for home. I think that very simple test provides a very satisfying reassurance that the circuit, float switch, and bilge pump are all fully functional. Gary Kunkel
About every month or so, just before locking our boat up for the week, we lift the float switch and watch it turn on the bilge pump. A few months ago, nothing happened when I did that. We checked and isolated a simple failure of the float switch itself. A quick trip to West Marine and the replacement switch was installed before we left for home. I think that very simple test provides a very satisfying reassurance that the circuit, float switch, and bilge pump are all fully functional. Gary Kunkel
2nd pump
for those that have installed a second bilge pump, I understand to locate this pump higher so that in the event the first fails, this one kicks in....sounds like a great somewhat inexpensive insurance policy....what I was wondering was how to wire and plumb the 2nd pump in. Do you tee into the existing above water discharge?, do seperate exit altogther?. What about wiring, just properlty splice into the existing wiring or run an entire new circuit? I would think that if the goal was full redundancy, than seperate discharge and wiring would be required.
for those that have installed a second bilge pump, I understand to locate this pump higher so that in the event the first fails, this one kicks in....sounds like a great somewhat inexpensive insurance policy....what I was wondering was how to wire and plumb the 2nd pump in. Do you tee into the existing above water discharge?, do seperate exit altogther?. What about wiring, just properlty splice into the existing wiring or run an entire new circuit? I would think that if the goal was full redundancy, than seperate discharge and wiring would be required.
Redundancy Rules!
If you had a common power source that failed, both pumps would out of circuit. If the discharge through hull is at capacity, the two pumps would not put out their max flow. How big is it? Bilge pumps usually have fairly small discharge through hulls.
If you had a common power source that failed, both pumps would out of circuit. If the discharge through hull is at capacity, the two pumps would not put out their max flow. How big is it? Bilge pumps usually have fairly small discharge through hulls.
Be careful
If you use a t-conncector to tie in a 2nd pump, watch where you do it and how it lays in the line. I tought my pump was broke and after several (many) (a whole helluva lot) of hours scratching my head and soliciting advice from this forum, I realized that the hose from my manual pump, which was a larger diameter hose, would take any water that was being pumped out by the automatic pump and return it to the bilge. After replacing the pump and 1/8" hose, I realized this and separated the manual from the auto. Now the automatic one works fine and if I ever need to use the manual pump, I just toss the hose over the side and pump away. I am proabably going to reinstall the old pump down flow from the new one at a point that is just past the discharge from the new one. That way the water will not follow the path of least resistance and backflow on me. If anyone thinks this won't work, please tell me now before I start cutting!! Jack Manning s/v/ Victim of Fate Atlantic City, NJ
If you use a t-conncector to tie in a 2nd pump, watch where you do it and how it lays in the line. I tought my pump was broke and after several (many) (a whole helluva lot) of hours scratching my head and soliciting advice from this forum, I realized that the hose from my manual pump, which was a larger diameter hose, would take any water that was being pumped out by the automatic pump and return it to the bilge. After replacing the pump and 1/8" hose, I realized this and separated the manual from the auto. Now the automatic one works fine and if I ever need to use the manual pump, I just toss the hose over the side and pump away. I am proabably going to reinstall the old pump down flow from the new one at a point that is just past the discharge from the new one. That way the water will not follow the path of least resistance and backflow on me. If anyone thinks this won't work, please tell me now before I start cutting!! Jack Manning s/v/ Victim of Fate Atlantic City, NJ
Second Pump
We added a second pump and mounted its switch higher in the bilge, but the pump itself sits down at the same level as the primary pump. Each pump has a separate "on" light so while we're aboard if we see the second light on we can look for the problem. Is there any special reason to mount the second pump higher than the first instead of what we have done?
We added a second pump and mounted its switch higher in the bilge, but the pump itself sits down at the same level as the primary pump. Each pump has a separate "on" light so while we're aboard if we see the second light on we can look for the problem. Is there any special reason to mount the second pump higher than the first instead of what we have done?
Same type of problem
I installed a new pump and flaot switch on the boat, while bringing it home. Didn't have a soldering iron on board when installing, so just did a twist splice, taped and then liquid taped the connection. No heat shrink. And put it on the to do list for when I got home. Well, surprise, in just a couple of months, the wires from the Rule float switch, and the Rule bilge pump are corroded. Not enough yet to cause a failure, but corroded. I would not recommend anyone use Rule pumps and switches after this. If they are too cheap to use a good grade of marine wire, I don't want their crap on my boat. You can be sure I will check out my next purchase much better.
I installed a new pump and flaot switch on the boat, while bringing it home. Didn't have a soldering iron on board when installing, so just did a twist splice, taped and then liquid taped the connection. No heat shrink. And put it on the to do list for when I got home. Well, surprise, in just a couple of months, the wires from the Rule float switch, and the Rule bilge pump are corroded. Not enough yet to cause a failure, but corroded. I would not recommend anyone use Rule pumps and switches after this. If they are too cheap to use a good grade of marine wire, I don't want their crap on my boat. You can be sure I will check out my next purchase much better.
Funny, Rule pump is suppose to be one of the best.
..yet the cheap wiring on my Rule switch makes me wonder. It appears that for few xtra pennies they could invest in better wires. abe
..yet the cheap wiring on my Rule switch makes me wonder. It appears that for few xtra pennies they could invest in better wires. abe
Rule
I think they make one of the best submerible pumps for the size but I think they make the worst float switches. Maybe that is why they started putting the switches inside the pump. I keep the connectors out of the water so mine don't corrode...at least not yet.
I think they make one of the best submerible pumps for the size but I think they make the worst float switches. Maybe that is why they started putting the switches inside the pump. I keep the connectors out of the water so mine don't corrode...at least not yet.
now for the best upgrade
I find a great comfort with a bilge pump cycle counter. It advances one digit every time the the pump comes on. A quick glance lets you know whats going on with the pumps. If you look at it and it says 20, Damn i got a leak somewhere. you can reset it eveytime you leave the boat on when travling everyday. With motor noise, wind noise etc. you often dont know how often the pump is actually working. so this tells you whats really going on. Maybe a bad leak is running the pump all the time... nice securtity device/
I find a great comfort with a bilge pump cycle counter. It advances one digit every time the the pump comes on. A quick glance lets you know whats going on with the pumps. If you look at it and it says 20, Damn i got a leak somewhere. you can reset it eveytime you leave the boat on when travling everyday. With motor noise, wind noise etc. you often dont know how often the pump is actually working. so this tells you whats really going on. Maybe a bad leak is running the pump all the time... nice securtity device/
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