Picking up new boat, need de-mast, trailer advice

J Hunter · Apr 14, 2012

In the old days, many marinas had hinged A frames laying around outside that people used to step and un-step their own masts. Two long 2x6s with holes at one end to lash to the toe rails and a hinge made out of two 2x6s and some bolts at the other ends, with a way to hitch a block in the center. In about 1985 I was in a hurry to get going on a weekend sail when the yard hadn't stepped my mast and I used one, with no previous experience for my '76 h30, I had many very fit 20 something year olds helping, my rig was probably half again as heavy as your 26.5, and I got it up no problem. Down would have been easier.

A drill motor a couple of bits and a trip to lowes or home depot with 50 bucks is all you'd need to make your own mast un-stepping A frame out of 2x6s, you could re deploy the boats running rigging and winch to lower it, you'd need a way to get up to a little more than half the height of your mast to tie off the pick.

But at my age now, and if I didn't have that previous experience and at least two maybe 3 able bodied helpers, I'd probably spring for the extra $ for the crane and pro help, if only for the outside chance that they'd be better at dealing with the unexpected than you would be on a tight schedule and coming in from out of town.

Benny17441 · Apr 14, 2012

It looks like you have most things covered. Take a power washer with you and clean the bottom of the boat at haulout.

Crazy Dave Condon · Apr 15, 2012

dknape;

Congratualtions on your purchase.

Carolyn and Ken at Norton's is one of the oldest and reputable Hunter dealers in the country. They have sold those boats and to be blunt, I would trust them as to demast and putting on the trailer. Tell them Crazy Dave said hi. Forget taking the power washer and get them to do that for you.

When lashing the mast to the bow and rear stanchions, put them on carperted boards and secure tight. You may want to leave the rigging attached to mast but if not, mark them 1-10 etc.. as to placement. If you leave them on the mast, secure all of them. If using duck tape, start with a little and then roll it backwards so the sticky stuff is on the outside.

You will need a minumum of three straps if the trailer does not have a front bow support/winch stand. two forward and one rear. On the two forward, have one strap going forward and the other going backwards to make sure the boat will not slide. the third strap on the back should have a slight angle going toward the front. Also twist the straps so they will not slap in the wind.

I assume you are taking a tandem axle. If not and it is a single axle, stop right there because you will blow tires and could have an accident.

On the trailer, make sure bearings are greased. CARRY A SPARE TIRE, TWO BLOCKS OF WOOD, A TIE ROD TO UNLOOSEN LUG NUTS IF NECESSARY BUT ALSO CHECK FOR TIGHTNESS. iNSURE BUNK BOARD IF THAT STYLE THE RETAINING BOLTS ARE TIGHT. Insure lights working as well as brakes. Cross chaing the safety chains and if too long, twist them so they will not drag. You may wnat to put a bolt thru the lever when down on the trailer hitch.

Accelerate and brake as if on ice and suggest that you do not go over 55-60. Take time going home and please do not tailgate but give enough room behind vehicles.

The width of the boat is 9 feet. Wide load permits are required over 8 1/2 feet except in North Carolina as wide load permit is required over 10 feet day and 9.5 feet at night. Many at 9 feet do not get permits as the sillouwette of the boat is not 9 feet but that will be up to you. I never did. If you are transporting on a private trailer, I never went thru scales but that is your choice.

When you go 20 miles, pull over sir and check all tie downs and put your hand on the axles which should be warm but if super hot, you have an issue. Take a ladder with you to get on top of the boat to check lashings.

If outboard motor, remove it from transom but if you cannot, leave it in the up position and secure a line around it or to the handle to the boat to keep it from bouncing which will help a whole lot my friend.

I know this is alot but for one who trailered small boats over 2 million miles, just some good information to know.

Crazy Dave Condon

RMadewell · Apr 16, 2012

Your going to love your 26.5. IMHO you couldn't have picked a better boat for your first one.
I've trailered mine for a number of years. To add a couple of things to Dave's excellent advice:
Since the mast does not have a hinge pin at the base it's a little more complicated to work with when using an A-frame as you must secure it from slipping off the base. Not an easy thing to do as the mast wants to sway when you are raising or lowering.
Definitely suggest you have the yard remove and raise the mast with you watching the process and then determine if you want to attemp the A-frame method. I've used an a-frame to demast and raise with my 26.5 on the trailer and in the water. Just takes time and help. I like to use 4 people. Two on the mast, one on winch and one to watch every thing and chase rigging which always hangs up.
Since its a rented trailer make sure the yard takes the time to adjust the bunks and/or pads properly.
Make sure the yard positions the boat on the trailer to give you adequate tongue weight while providing a good rest for the keel.
To add stress to Dave's recommendation: Make sure the lights and the trailer brakes are operational. No brakes, get another trailer.
Hopefully you can get a trailer with, or have, a load leveling hitch with sway control. You can tow without, provided proper tongue weight, but much safer with.
Remove the outboard. From my experience you simply cannot get the motor tied tight enough to stop the thin Hunter bulkhead from oil canning, at least on the roads out here. If the motor is a 4-stroke make sure you lay it down on the correct side.
Make sure the battery is tied down and secured. (This from experience)
Watch out for the rudder if you run into a dip or steep rise going into service stations, or when launching.
I've traveled up and down Calif, to Wash and Utah and back. I've never bothered with permits. Knock on wood.
I always stop every 75 or 100 miles to check things over after initially stopping to inspect at around 10 miles. This means that in addition to walking around the trailer pull out the ladder and climb on board to make sure everything is still secure.
Enjoy your trip and get ready to answer questions about the boat when you stop. It looks really big and high on the trailer.