PHII wet in closed mode

[Jim Divan]

My older PHII is pulling liquid from the bowl and it's coming back around though the top of the bowl as it is pumped out when in the closed position. Is this a seal problem? Do I need to rebuild it again? I did a kit over the winter have I messed that up?
Thanks

 

[Head Master18695]

Couple possibilities: 1) the intake valve wasn't put back in properly and it isn't really in the Dry position, even though the knob may say so. Check the range of travel of the selector knob. It must be 1/4 turn-only. If you can turn it more than 1/4 turn, remove the knob from the top and turn the stem somewhat with pliers, then put the knob back on and try it again. When you have it so that it can only turn 1/4 turn, then it's oriented correctly, and you can screw it back down.

2) The piston "O" ring has popped off, or isn't sealing properly. This allows the water to go from one side of the piston to the other side, and recirculate it.

My money is on #1...

 

[kloudie1]

If the .. uuhhhh.. juice is returning to the bowl from the fresh water inlets around the top rim, then the piston o-ring/seal is leaking (1232MS in your parts diagram) .. sounds like ya need to clear it with fresh water then pull the pump and correct the piston seal. If the stuff is coming back in from the bottom, then it is the flapper valve at the base of the pump (#1228 CW in the diagram). Good Luck with it, Jim..

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I think I'd go with Head Master's advice...

He's the tech services manager at Raritan, has been there 36 (or is it 37 now?) years...he's MY guru! Which is why I emailed him to ask him to answer this one...:dance:

 

[Head Master18695]

Re: I think I'd go with Head Master's advice...

Peg, come October it'll be 39 years. Kloudie1 is correct, too - but if the water is clean, and the head has recently been taken apart and rebuilt, its' a very common error to get the selector valve in wrong - and it only takes a few minutes to corrrect it, without even getting dirty! That's the first thing to check. On the underside of the selector knob are two stops, which straddle a tab that sticks up on the actual pump housing, limiting the travel of the selector knob to 1/4 turn when you turn it. If the knob was put back on without paying particular attention to the orientation of the valve stem - then Bingo!

 

[Jim Divan]

Thank you for such a fast reply! I replaced the flapper and "O" ring tonight and it seems much better, there was some type of hard stuff (hmm) stuck to the inside lower level of the pump which I had to crack (chip) off that was making it very hard and noisy to pump. Also I had corrected the open/closed orientation yesterday.

 

[PKFK]

Which side is "up" on the flapper valve ?

I recall that the flapper valve has a metal disk on one side of the "flap".....figure 2 in the owner's manual is quite clear in showing the orientation of the valve (the solid part is on the left, not the bottom - so it should look like a "D")....but what is not clear is which side is "up".......does the valve go in with the weighted part of the flapper on top, or bottom ?

 

[Head Master18695]

Re: Which side is "up" on the flapper valve ?

The weight on the flapper faces up; it can't seal, and as such, it won't work if the weight is facing down.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Thank you for such a fast reply! I replaced the flapper and "O" ring tonight and it seems much better, there was some type of hard stuff (hmm) stuck to the inside lower level of the pump which I had to crack (chip) off that was making it very hard and noisy to pump.

That "hard stuff" is sea water calcium carbonate...and if you have build up in the toilet, you also have buildup in your hoses that, if not removed, can reduce the diameter enough to create a blockage (see photo). And sea water mineral buildup isn't limited only to head discharge hoses...it's also a problem in engine intake and exhaust hoses....ANY hoses that carry sea water.

However, before you start to panic over HOW to remove buildup...it's actually pretty easy: a 12% solution of muriatic acid left in the toilet and hoses for an hour. Or...Raritan has a new product that's supposed to do the job even better: C.H. Cleans Hoses http://www.raritaneng.com/store/page8.html It's expensive though...but worth it if you have a serious buildup in a bunch of sea water system hoses.

Prevention in the sanitation system is easy and very INexpensive: a cupful of undiluted distilled white vinegar (NOT cider!) flushed all the way through the system once a week when it can stand at least overnight. Do NOT leave vinegar sitting in the bowl...it doesn't prevent buildup in a hose when it's in the bowl, but will destroy your joker valve.