Peggie- I have your book and I've read a lot but don't think I have ever seen this particular issue come up before. Since it is highly undersirable to let waste sit in a hose, how do you prevent waste from sitting in the hose that goes from the holding tank to the macerator pump. On our boat that hose runs vertically from the bottom of the tank to the macerator pump close to the top of the holding tank. As the tank fills with waste so does the hose. Don't see how this can be avoided.
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Doesn't look like you can, Charles
unless you put a T valve right at the tank. Since you probably have a deck pump-out in addition to the macerator, there should be either a Y fitting or valve between the tank and the macerator. If you are re-fitting, just make it a valve and put it right at the tank. Some tanks have the exit hole in the top or at the top of the side of the holding tank. I'm starting to really like that idea, since it avoids most of the leak problems. Of course, as in a recent thread, this position requires a piece of pipe inside the tank, and has its own difficulties, too. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
unless you put a T valve right at the tank. Since you probably have a deck pump-out in addition to the macerator, there should be either a Y fitting or valve between the tank and the macerator. If you are re-fitting, just make it a valve and put it right at the tank. Some tanks have the exit hole in the top or at the top of the side of the holding tank. I'm starting to really like that idea, since it avoids most of the leak problems. Of course, as in a recent thread, this position requires a piece of pipe inside the tank, and has its own difficulties, too. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
If the discharge is at the bottom of the tank
It can't be prevented..waste is gonna rise in the discharge line to the level in the tank. If there's only a tee or wye in the line, waste will rise in the lines coming out of both sides of it. A y-valve will only keep it from rising in the line that's closed off...it'll still rise in the line that's open. The only way to prevent it is by putting all the fittings on the top of the tank, with a PVC tube inside the tank on the discharge. When it's done right, there should't be any problems.
It can't be prevented..waste is gonna rise in the discharge line to the level in the tank. If there's only a tee or wye in the line, waste will rise in the lines coming out of both sides of it. A y-valve will only keep it from rising in the line that's closed off...it'll still rise in the line that's open. The only way to prevent it is by putting all the fittings on the top of the tank, with a PVC tube inside the tank on the discharge. When it's done right, there should't be any problems.
PVC
I put the macerator directly in the bottom port of the waste tank form maximum efficiency, and becaue it can't be run dry. I used three inches total of flex waste tubing to connect the macerator outlet to the pvc delivery system. Only one inch of tubing is exposed constantly for flex and possible future disassembly purposes. No odor, no problems so far. Probably because it is such a small surface area exposed. I plan to replace that bit of tubing every three or four years just for safety sake.
I put the macerator directly in the bottom port of the waste tank form maximum efficiency, and becaue it can't be run dry. I used three inches total of flex waste tubing to connect the macerator outlet to the pvc delivery system. Only one inch of tubing is exposed constantly for flex and possible future disassembly purposes. No odor, no problems so far. Probably because it is such a small surface area exposed. I plan to replace that bit of tubing every three or four years just for safety sake.
If the macerator is in the tank discharge port...
How do you pump out? The macerator would block the pumpout suction unless there's a tee or y-valve between it and the tank. If you're on inland waters, dumping a tank is illegal and can cost you BIG bucks in fines...in fact, in some states it's illegal even to have macerator or any means of dumping a tank installed. But even in coastal waters that allow immediate access to open sea beyond the 3 mile limit, if you don't have a line to a deck pumpout fitting, you could have a real problem if your macerator fails. So the only way that connecting the macerator directly to tank can work is is you have two separate discharge ports...one directly to the macerator, the other directly to the deck pumpout.
How do you pump out? The macerator would block the pumpout suction unless there's a tee or y-valve between it and the tank. If you're on inland waters, dumping a tank is illegal and can cost you BIG bucks in fines...in fact, in some states it's illegal even to have macerator or any means of dumping a tank installed. But even in coastal waters that allow immediate access to open sea beyond the 3 mile limit, if you don't have a line to a deck pumpout fitting, you could have a real problem if your macerator fails. So the only way that connecting the macerator directly to tank can work is is you have two separate discharge ports...one directly to the macerator, the other directly to the deck pumpout.
we pump out legally at pumpout stations
We have a seperate pumpout hose from the holding tank to the deck. Now I know that the hose to my macerator is the most likely one causing odors
We have a seperate pumpout hose from the holding tank to the deck. Now I know that the hose to my macerator is the most likely one causing odors
dumb idea?
Peggie- I'm not inclined to rearrange my plumbing so if I need to I'll replace the Sealand Odorsafe 14" hose every other year, which seems to be how long it lasts. However, what if I painted epoxy on it? Might it last longer before needing replacement? Charles
Peggie- I'm not inclined to rearrange my plumbing so if I need to I'll replace the Sealand Odorsafe 14" hose every other year, which seems to be how long it lasts. However, what if I painted epoxy on it? Might it last longer before needing replacement? Charles
NO hose should need replacement in only 2 yrs.
The SeaLand OdorSafePlus hose isn't nearly as good as the original OdorSafe...but even it shouldn't permeate that fast unless you're flushing something that's damaging to hoses. What are you using to clean your toilet? Do you have one of those inline devices in the intake? Are you allowing to waste to sit in the hoses? I need to know everything about how your system is plumbed and what goes through it. Meanwhile, to answer your question: yes, it's dumb idea.
The SeaLand OdorSafePlus hose isn't nearly as good as the original OdorSafe...but even it shouldn't permeate that fast unless you're flushing something that's damaging to hoses. What are you using to clean your toilet? Do you have one of those inline devices in the intake? Are you allowing to waste to sit in the hoses? I need to know everything about how your system is plumbed and what goes through it. Meanwhile, to answer your question: yes, it's dumb idea.
more info
Peggie- The 14" hose goes from the bottom of the holding tank to the macerator located around the top of the holding tank. There is a seperate hose for the deck pumpout. We always pumpout and don't use the macerator but I don't want to remove it. The head is a Jabsco fresh water electric. We don't add anything and there is nothing inline. We do have a filter on the vent. Yes, sewage sits in this line since it fills as the holding tank fills. The hose that permeated in less than two seasons is the top of the line OdorSafe that WM sells. Rather than replumbing things or replacing the hose every other season I'm looking to extend its life without too much work. Why wouldn't epoxy help?
Peggie- The 14" hose goes from the bottom of the holding tank to the macerator located around the top of the holding tank. There is a seperate hose for the deck pumpout. We always pumpout and don't use the macerator but I don't want to remove it. The head is a Jabsco fresh water electric. We don't add anything and there is nothing inline. We do have a filter on the vent. Yes, sewage sits in this line since it fills as the holding tank fills. The hose that permeated in less than two seasons is the top of the line OdorSafe that WM sells. Rather than replumbing things or replacing the hose every other season I'm looking to extend its life without too much work. Why wouldn't epoxy help?
Painting the hose would only be a band aid.
You'd accomplish just as much by wrapping the hose in Saran Wrap. If you want to solve your odor problem for good: 1. Get rid of the macerator and plumbing to it. If you don't use it, it'll be worthless, unuseable, after a couple of years 'cuz all the seals will dry and out and crack (if they haven't already) and all the lubrication in the motor will settle, ceasing to provide any protection against corrosion. Lack of use is far more destructive to equipment than continuous heavy use. 2. Get rid of the vent filter. Filters actually help to create the problem they're sold to solve by blocking the free exchange of air into the tank needed to keep the tank aerobic...they only last a year, and are "toast" immediately if they get wet--which is likely to happen when you're heeled. And when they get wet, they can block the vent altogether, causing REAL problems. At $50+ each, they're an unnecessary expense. If you use Odorlos in the tank according to directions you won't have any odor out the vent without a filter. 3. Replace the pumpout hose with AVS96 made by Australian Global Services http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose on the planet INCLUDING OdorSafe, and is only $5.50/ft. It'll be the last time you'll have to replace a hose. You said you have my book...you might want to read the chapters on holding tank odors and tank maintenance.
You'd accomplish just as much by wrapping the hose in Saran Wrap. If you want to solve your odor problem for good: 1. Get rid of the macerator and plumbing to it. If you don't use it, it'll be worthless, unuseable, after a couple of years 'cuz all the seals will dry and out and crack (if they haven't already) and all the lubrication in the motor will settle, ceasing to provide any protection against corrosion. Lack of use is far more destructive to equipment than continuous heavy use. 2. Get rid of the vent filter. Filters actually help to create the problem they're sold to solve by blocking the free exchange of air into the tank needed to keep the tank aerobic...they only last a year, and are "toast" immediately if they get wet--which is likely to happen when you're heeled. And when they get wet, they can block the vent altogether, causing REAL problems. At $50+ each, they're an unnecessary expense. If you use Odorlos in the tank according to directions you won't have any odor out the vent without a filter. 3. Replace the pumpout hose with AVS96 made by Australian Global Services http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose on the planet INCLUDING OdorSafe, and is only $5.50/ft. It'll be the last time you'll have to replace a hose. You said you have my book...you might want to read the chapters on holding tank odors and tank maintenance.
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