Ive got a 32 year old Pearson 26 that spent the first 26 years of its life in fresh water. Its been in the ocean on MA bay for the past 6 seasons. When I bought the boat the yard that hauled it said the aluminum rudder post was a litte sloppy and they repaired it. They said it was ok. That was 6 seasons ago. Ive had no problems with it. Most of the P26`s in my area have had their rudders replaced. The new rudder comes with a stainless steel rudder post. These boats have been in salt water over 25 years. Heres my Question. Should I wait for the salt to do its work and corrode the post out or should I replace the rudder now and get a new one with a Stainless steel rudder post. Are there any signs to look for that would tell me if the post is corroding out. Any comments and opinions would be welcome Bob Fox 1975 P26W Whitecap Marblehead MA
Pearson 26 Rudder Question
- Thread starter bffatcat
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Rudder Post
I would suspect that the rudder post really is stainless steel & not aluminum. Why don't you simply drop the rudder when the boat is hauled for the winter & have a look at it? If the rudder post is badly worn you'll easily see it. Most likely the greatest wear will be at the bottom so you won't even have to remove the rudder all the way if it proves too difficult.
I would suspect that the rudder post really is stainless steel & not aluminum. Why don't you simply drop the rudder when the boat is hauled for the winter & have a look at it? If the rudder post is badly worn you'll easily see it. Most likely the greatest wear will be at the bottom so you won't even have to remove the rudder all the way if it proves too difficult.
P26
Bob- My sailing buddy has a 75 Pearson 26. He had the exact same problem of a sloppy tiller/rudder. All it turned out to be was the bushings were worn. I think he bought them off the Pearson site, $90 ish, problem solved. I think that you will find this to be the problem. Rob Hessenius
Bob- My sailing buddy has a 75 Pearson 26. He had the exact same problem of a sloppy tiller/rudder. All it turned out to be was the bushings were worn. I think he bought them off the Pearson site, $90 ish, problem solved. I think that you will find this to be the problem. Rob Hessenius
Pearson Rudder info ......
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/rudder.htm ............ dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/rudder.htm A 1975 P26 probably has the aluminum rudder shaft, especially if its lifetime has been in fresh water. Dont expect it to last very long in salt water. The above URL will get you into many of the links of conversions/repairs/rebuilds of the infamous P26 (aluminum shaft) rudder. Also applicable to pre-1972 P30s. Also take note of the 'bearing repair' on the above URL as the WEST SYSTEM repair works out better than simple replacement of the OEM Delrin bushings. For BEST bearing replacement/rebuild, put a high mirror polish on the shaft before you rebuild/replace the bearings .... the Acteal plastic in the bearings 'transfers' to the shaft by abrasion. The 'smoother' you make the rudder shaft surface where the bearing rides, the longer it takes wear out. Its probably time to dig a large pit under your boat's stern, drop the rudder into the pit and do a careful inspection of the rudder stock. At least by now you'll need to repair/replace the bearings. Take it 'easy' when removing the tiller head on the rudder shaft ... you dont want to crack it when removing it (although is 'weldable'). good luck at ya.
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/rudder.htm ............ dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/rudder.htm A 1975 P26 probably has the aluminum rudder shaft, especially if its lifetime has been in fresh water. Dont expect it to last very long in salt water. The above URL will get you into many of the links of conversions/repairs/rebuilds of the infamous P26 (aluminum shaft) rudder. Also applicable to pre-1972 P30s. Also take note of the 'bearing repair' on the above URL as the WEST SYSTEM repair works out better than simple replacement of the OEM Delrin bushings. For BEST bearing replacement/rebuild, put a high mirror polish on the shaft before you rebuild/replace the bearings .... the Acteal plastic in the bearings 'transfers' to the shaft by abrasion. The 'smoother' you make the rudder shaft surface where the bearing rides, the longer it takes wear out. Its probably time to dig a large pit under your boat's stern, drop the rudder into the pit and do a careful inspection of the rudder stock. At least by now you'll need to repair/replace the bearings. Take it 'easy' when removing the tiller head on the rudder shaft ... you dont want to crack it when removing it (although is 'weldable'). good luck at ya.
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