I just purchased a 1980 27' Hunter with a Renault diesel. On our maden voyage, the exhaust manifold cracked. Can any one give me some advice where I might buy a replacement part? I am in irons until I can get this resolved. Thanks...
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Ed Schenck
Archives?
I would suggest the "Forum Archives" but it has been unavailable. But there you should find lots of discussion about Renault parts. Someone posted the number/address of a Texas company I think. Have you tried "renault diesel" in one of the Internet search engines like Google? Found it, kinda' old but worth a try: http://www.adminet.com/mail/marine.25Mar99.txt
I would suggest the "Forum Archives" but it has been unavailable. But there you should find lots of discussion about Renault parts. Someone posted the number/address of a Texas company I think. Have you tried "renault diesel" in one of the Internet search engines like Google? Found it, kinda' old but worth a try: http://www.adminet.com/mail/marine.25Mar99.txt
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Dan Grosz
Repair Possible?
Depending on how bad the crack is you may be able to repair with a metal epoxy like J.B. Weld (can buy at Home Depot)
Depending on how bad the crack is you may be able to repair with a metal epoxy like J.B. Weld (can buy at Home Depot)
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Dan Bryant
weld it!
I had the same manifold fail on the Renault on my 1980 H27. If you want to order one you can contact the folks at either of the places below: http://www.renaultcouach.com/ and http://www.nannidiesel.com/eintro.htm Better, quicker and cheaper way to go: I got impatient and just brought in the pieces to an auto weld shop along with a steel pipe section and a cast iron plumbing elbow. I had the guy weld the flange (the part with the bolt holes that connects to the engine)onto the threaded pipe and then weld that onto the the water/exhaust mixing portion of the manifold. It took 5 minutes, cost me $50 and I was good to go. Much stronger than the original.
I had the same manifold fail on the Renault on my 1980 H27. If you want to order one you can contact the folks at either of the places below: http://www.renaultcouach.com/ and http://www.nannidiesel.com/eintro.htm Better, quicker and cheaper way to go: I got impatient and just brought in the pieces to an auto weld shop along with a steel pipe section and a cast iron plumbing elbow. I had the guy weld the flange (the part with the bolt holes that connects to the engine)onto the threaded pipe and then weld that onto the the water/exhaust mixing portion of the manifold. It took 5 minutes, cost me $50 and I was good to go. Much stronger than the original.
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D. Megonigal
Number in Texas
Ed, Thanks for the tip on the number in Texas. I had seen the posting you noted as well. I called the number and the fax number of that establishment, but those numbers have been disconnected (they did get a new area code down that, and I modified the number accordingly. I think it was a 281 339 number.) Anyway, I did find a place in the UK that may be able to help. The internet is a wonderful thing. But, I am a bit concerned about trying to find parts for a 22 year old engine. I can only hope that there are parts across the pond... As far as fixing the part, our marina has a shop and I spoke to the mechanic today. He said he may be able to cut out the bad metal and weld a new elbow on to repair it. Thanks again. It is great to know that there are folks out there listening...
Ed, Thanks for the tip on the number in Texas. I had seen the posting you noted as well. I called the number and the fax number of that establishment, but those numbers have been disconnected (they did get a new area code down that, and I modified the number accordingly. I think it was a 281 339 number.) Anyway, I did find a place in the UK that may be able to help. The internet is a wonderful thing. But, I am a bit concerned about trying to find parts for a 22 year old engine. I can only hope that there are parts across the pond... As far as fixing the part, our marina has a shop and I spoke to the mechanic today. He said he may be able to cut out the bad metal and weld a new elbow on to repair it. Thanks again. It is great to know that there are folks out there listening...
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D. Megonigal
Good point, Dan
Dan I took my part to our marina's shop yesterday, and my mechanic recommended the same idea. I am glad to hear that this solution is stronger. How long ago did you do this and how well did it last. Also, when I removed the part, I found that the flexible hose leading back to the muffler was rotted and ripped as well. I was thinking about replacing it with aluminum flexible hose. Do you have any insights on this. Also, the muffler itself, can you use an auto part for this, or is there a special marine muffler. Well, I am new to this, so one issue leads to many questions. Thanks D. Megonigal
Dan I took my part to our marina's shop yesterday, and my mechanic recommended the same idea. I am glad to hear that this solution is stronger. How long ago did you do this and how well did it last. Also, when I removed the part, I found that the flexible hose leading back to the muffler was rotted and ripped as well. I was thinking about replacing it with aluminum flexible hose. Do you have any insights on this. Also, the muffler itself, can you use an auto part for this, or is there a special marine muffler. Well, I am new to this, so one issue leads to many questions. Thanks D. Megonigal
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Dan Bryant
Weld Still in Service
In response to your note: I had that piece welded about 4 years ago, and its still going strong. I would caution you, though, on the muffler and the aluminum flexible hose. If the whole hose is rotted, just replace it with a comparable one; its a 10 minute job. If just the end is degraded, cut it off and if you have enough "loop" in it, just move it forward onto the manifold. The exhaust hose carries both water and exhaust (the engine cooling raw water gets injected right before the hose clamp on the manifold). As a result, its wet and a prime site for gavanic corrosion if you place two dissimilar metals together (i.e. steel and aluminum). That repaired manifold will be rusted out in no time flat if you connect an Al hose to it (hey, occasionally having a PhD in Metallurgy comes in handy!). The steel wire reinforced rubber exhaust hose will last you 20 years. Same holds for the "muffler", which is really more of a can where that exhaust cooling raw water accumulates before its burped out with the exhaust. Don't replace it unless its leaking. If it is, then buy a new one. I wouldn't mess with automotive mild steel on that; its most likely stainless steel. Remember that the exhaust system on a marine diesel has two functions - get rid of the exhaust but also cool it down so it doesn't melt anything (diesel exhaust can be upwards of 1000 F). Hint for avoiding corrosion: flush the engine with fresh water before you leave - use the T junction at your raw water inlet. If you don't have one, put one in; you'll need it to antifreeze the engine this winter anyway. Good luck with it. Remember that you should change the engine zinc and the secondary fuel filter about once a year, and for those you WILL need genuine Renault parts. As Renault Marine got bought out by Nanni in the '80s, that second web site I sent is the one to check out. The Texas folks went out of business a year or two ago - the other folks (Lauderdale Marine, I think) are in Miami.
In response to your note: I had that piece welded about 4 years ago, and its still going strong. I would caution you, though, on the muffler and the aluminum flexible hose. If the whole hose is rotted, just replace it with a comparable one; its a 10 minute job. If just the end is degraded, cut it off and if you have enough "loop" in it, just move it forward onto the manifold. The exhaust hose carries both water and exhaust (the engine cooling raw water gets injected right before the hose clamp on the manifold). As a result, its wet and a prime site for gavanic corrosion if you place two dissimilar metals together (i.e. steel and aluminum). That repaired manifold will be rusted out in no time flat if you connect an Al hose to it (hey, occasionally having a PhD in Metallurgy comes in handy!). The steel wire reinforced rubber exhaust hose will last you 20 years. Same holds for the "muffler", which is really more of a can where that exhaust cooling raw water accumulates before its burped out with the exhaust. Don't replace it unless its leaking. If it is, then buy a new one. I wouldn't mess with automotive mild steel on that; its most likely stainless steel. Remember that the exhaust system on a marine diesel has two functions - get rid of the exhaust but also cool it down so it doesn't melt anything (diesel exhaust can be upwards of 1000 F). Hint for avoiding corrosion: flush the engine with fresh water before you leave - use the T junction at your raw water inlet. If you don't have one, put one in; you'll need it to antifreeze the engine this winter anyway. Good luck with it. Remember that you should change the engine zinc and the secondary fuel filter about once a year, and for those you WILL need genuine Renault parts. As Renault Marine got bought out by Nanni in the '80s, that second web site I sent is the one to check out. The Texas folks went out of business a year or two ago - the other folks (Lauderdale Marine, I think) are in Miami.
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D. Megonigal
Type of metal used to replace the angle
Dan I have another question to ask you. What type of metal did you use for the replacement? As you say having two differing metal welded together could be an issue. So, what type of metal did you use, and where did you get it. I was thinking about the Home Depot, but I wasn't sure if the make-up of the metal would hold up. The flange appears to be in good shape, as does the end that connects to the hose. Thanks dpm
Dan I have another question to ask you. What type of metal did you use for the replacement? As you say having two differing metal welded together could be an issue. So, what type of metal did you use, and where did you get it. I was thinking about the Home Depot, but I wasn't sure if the make-up of the metal would hold up. The flange appears to be in good shape, as does the end that connects to the hose. Thanks dpm
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Dan Bryant
mild steel
The incompatability I was referring to was more in relation to different metal classes TOUCHING each other (like an Al hose on a steel manifold) than welding them together (you couldn't weld them together even if you wanted to). All your welding here will be between different steels, and they all are similar in galvanic potential. The pipe section I had welded to the flange was just standard mild steel pipe. I bought it (it was a four inch section, as I recall) at a plumbing supply shop, along with a cast iron elbow. Another short pipe section (2"?) threaded into the other side of the elbow, and that was welded into the manifold at the other end (I believe this is right, I'm going on memory here). In terms of galvanic corrosion, all the steels will have a similar potential (other than stainless steel, which has 13% chromium and is in a class by itself, and your engine doesn't have any of this) so setting up a galvanic circuit is not an issue. The weld rod likewise is of a similar grade of steel. It should be quick job. Proof of corrosion resistance can be seen in Chesapeake Bay's waterman boats - its all plumbing supplies! Good Luck - Dan
The incompatability I was referring to was more in relation to different metal classes TOUCHING each other (like an Al hose on a steel manifold) than welding them together (you couldn't weld them together even if you wanted to). All your welding here will be between different steels, and they all are similar in galvanic potential. The pipe section I had welded to the flange was just standard mild steel pipe. I bought it (it was a four inch section, as I recall) at a plumbing supply shop, along with a cast iron elbow. Another short pipe section (2"?) threaded into the other side of the elbow, and that was welded into the manifold at the other end (I believe this is right, I'm going on memory here). In terms of galvanic corrosion, all the steels will have a similar potential (other than stainless steel, which has 13% chromium and is in a class by itself, and your engine doesn't have any of this) so setting up a galvanic circuit is not an issue. The weld rod likewise is of a similar grade of steel. It should be quick job. Proof of corrosion resistance can be seen in Chesapeake Bay's waterman boats - its all plumbing supplies! Good Luck - Dan
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