I want to repaint the inside of my sailboat. I was wondering what, if any, special paint I need to paint to the fiberglass portion. It's inside so I don't want to buy really expensive paint. Thanks
Painting the inside
- Thread starter nameaneh
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In a similar post recently someone said they used Oil based "Kilz" with very good results!
We are going to strip the old fabric type wallpapery type stuff off the walls and paint with the Kilz and sponge on some light blue in splotches.
Jack
We are going to strip the old fabric type wallpapery type stuff off the walls and paint with the Kilz and sponge on some light blue in splotches.
Jack
if you want something along the lines of Brightside without the cost, consider going to Home Depot and get Glidden Porch and Floor paint. You have color options if you like and this is the same paint as Brightside for a fraction of the cost. This is a NON linear polyurethane.
I have come to the conclusion that the Home Depot/Lowes single part urethanes are pretty good. I have been using the urethane porch and deck enamels, with good success. And you can get them in any color you like, as well as being able to match any color.
Thanks everyone... Can I use the Glidden porch and floor paint for the outside above the waterline???? That would be great if I could.
An old sailor's trick
from Lin & Larry Pardey, I think: if you paint the insides of a boat white, it'll look a heck of a lot better, and seem a little bit cooler if you pitch a small amount of blue tint into the gallon jar.
from Lin & Larry Pardey, I think: if you paint the insides of a boat white, it'll look a heck of a lot better, and seem a little bit cooler if you pitch a small amount of blue tint into the gallon jar.
Outside Paint
I recently did the hull with the same urethane porch and deck enamel. Just sanded and painted, no primer. So far so good.
I recently did the hull with the same urethane porch and deck enamel. Just sanded and painted, no primer. So far so good.
House Paint
We painted the interior of our old Cal 27-T/2 with white semi-gloss Exterior Latex house paint with a mildewcide additive in 2001 after spraying the interior with house cleaner mixed with bleach and then pressure washing (obviously, empty the boat first). We painted all interior surfaces (except the teak) and the interior of all lockers.
It looked great and the current owner has it listed for sale and is advertising the interior refurbishment...so it has held up well.
We painted the interior of our old Cal 27-T/2 with white semi-gloss Exterior Latex house paint with a mildewcide additive in 2001 after spraying the interior with house cleaner mixed with bleach and then pressure washing (obviously, empty the boat first). We painted all interior surfaces (except the teak) and the interior of all lockers.
It looked great and the current owner has it listed for sale and is advertising the interior refurbishment...so it has held up well.
I would be very cautious adding blotches. I would use a solid white and if you need blue, add a small amount of blue to tint. My opinion for what its worth.
Paints and primers
Just some advice from someone that used to run a SWP store:
If you use Kiz primer be sure to have the area very well ventilated. Kilz can make you nauseaus and light headed if not ventilated. It is a very good primer / blocker and paint adheres very well to Kilz. I have used it inside and out with excellent results. Bullseye primer is another choice. I have seen it used on glass and the paint was top coated over the Bullseye. The pain could not be peeled off the glass.
As far as exterior paints, I would try to stay away from an exterior house paint because of some of the properties that make it goos for house exteriors. It will also always be a little soft which is why it is easy to recoat after years. Oil based will give a harder finish but is more brittle that lastex.
Just some advice from someone that used to run a SWP store:
If you use Kiz primer be sure to have the area very well ventilated. Kilz can make you nauseaus and light headed if not ventilated. It is a very good primer / blocker and paint adheres very well to Kilz. I have used it inside and out with excellent results. Bullseye primer is another choice. I have seen it used on glass and the paint was top coated over the Bullseye. The pain could not be peeled off the glass.
As far as exterior paints, I would try to stay away from an exterior house paint because of some of the properties that make it goos for house exteriors. It will also always be a little soft which is why it is easy to recoat after years. Oil based will give a harder finish but is more brittle that lastex.
rgallagher, you are right about the Kilz putting off fumes, we enclosed a garge and used it and I just used it to 'lighten/whiten up a small storage building. WWHHEEWW.
Thanks for pointing that out.
Jack
Ross, good point on covering the Kilz with paint, will do when I paint the interior.
Jack
Thanks for pointing that out.
Jack
Ross, good point on covering the Kilz with paint, will do when I paint the interior.
Jack
Re: Paints and primers
The modern formulations of direct to metal machine enamels are pretty had to find fault with. The local McCormack store has used it very successfully for painting the warehouse floor in the back of the store. After 4 years it is difficult to find and wear patterns in the paint.
The modern formulations of direct to metal machine enamels are pretty had to find fault with. The local McCormack store has used it very successfully for painting the warehouse floor in the back of the store. After 4 years it is difficult to find and wear patterns in the paint.
Painting
Keep one thing in mind. With very few exceptions The best (in YOUR opinion) paint/finish product is the least expensive. It usually lasts the longest, which means less time refinishing and more time to use your boat. You have to do your own product research and decide for yourself. I took some advice in the past and was disappointed with the results. My opinion, my own fault.
I would only paint fiberglass as a last resort. There are plenty of cleaners, polishes and waxes available. I use Turtle Wax in a green squeeze bottle on the interior fiberglass. I use a 3-M cleaner/polisher on the topsides; and I buff each area within 10 minutes. In my case I would never paint the pretty woodwork (brightwork), nor fiberglass inside nor exterior. Once you start you can never stop.
I just recently used WATCO brand teak oil, (NOT Fornby's Tung oil) that I got at Lowe's on my interior woodwork. I used this on a mild, sunny and very breezy(25 Knot with 50 Knot gusts) It was dry and sunny. A clearing weather system. I opened all the hatches and ports. I turned on all the cabin fans to keep up the ventilation. I applied the finish with an old T-shirt and rubbed it into the wood grain to the point that it would saturate the dry wood, but not run. You don't want to use a brush. Too many stroke marks. The wood soaks up the teak oil and the finish dries quickly with a well ventilated cabin.
My boat, Ladybug, is a 35.5 Ft Hunter Legend. It took four hours to do the interior woodwork, including moving cushions, etc.. She shines nice and bright!
Keep one thing in mind. With very few exceptions The best (in YOUR opinion) paint/finish product is the least expensive. It usually lasts the longest, which means less time refinishing and more time to use your boat. You have to do your own product research and decide for yourself. I took some advice in the past and was disappointed with the results. My opinion, my own fault.
I would only paint fiberglass as a last resort. There are plenty of cleaners, polishes and waxes available. I use Turtle Wax in a green squeeze bottle on the interior fiberglass. I use a 3-M cleaner/polisher on the topsides; and I buff each area within 10 minutes. In my case I would never paint the pretty woodwork (brightwork), nor fiberglass inside nor exterior. Once you start you can never stop.
I just recently used WATCO brand teak oil, (NOT Fornby's Tung oil) that I got at Lowe's on my interior woodwork. I used this on a mild, sunny and very breezy(25 Knot with 50 Knot gusts) It was dry and sunny. A clearing weather system. I opened all the hatches and ports. I turned on all the cabin fans to keep up the ventilation. I applied the finish with an old T-shirt and rubbed it into the wood grain to the point that it would saturate the dry wood, but not run. You don't want to use a brush. Too many stroke marks. The wood soaks up the teak oil and the finish dries quickly with a well ventilated cabin.
My boat, Ladybug, is a 35.5 Ft Hunter Legend. It took four hours to do the interior woodwork, including moving cushions, etc.. She shines nice and bright!
you might try Pettit "Easy Poxy" great color selection, easy to apply and designed for marine environment, use the undercoater for a great finish, but I agree to only paint it if it is the last resort. $34.00 per quart
I used a bright white epoxy-based garage floor paint as bilge paint. I don't see any reason why it wouldnt work for the rest of the backside of the fiberglass!
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