So ive read a hundred ways to repaint the cockpit but I cant decide what would be best. My cockpit is faded and oxidized from the Texas sun. So what would be best, sanding then painting using the roll and tip method or just a acetone cleaning and then painting using the same roll and tip. the non-skid areas are still good and I would just like to paint over those areas while preserving the existing non-skid, is that possible. Has anyone done this? any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Painting the cockpit?
- Thread starter Astrozombie
- Start date
Get some comet and clean the topsides with that first and then wash off with a dish wash detergent. Then look at what is there and test patch with a cleaner wax. If no go, then compound and I suggest Finese It by 3M in the gallon as the liquid version stinks.
Unless the gelcoat is gouged or scratched all the way through, or you want to change the color, you're better off wet sanding and polishing. Save paint as a last resort. No matter what quality paint you use, it will not be as durable as gelcoat.
On my 1969 Columbia, the gelcoat had been sanded through on a few places, so i had to paint. And now it needs doing again.
On my 1969 Columbia, the gelcoat had been sanded through on a few places, so i had to paint. And now it needs doing again.
if the gelcoat is damaged or wore off beyond reconditioning and you actually do need to paint, use a stainless wire brush on the nonskid and sand the rest of it... an acetone wash wont allow the new paint to adhere like you need it to.
and remember that the quality and longevity of the finished project is not so much in how the paint is applied, but more so in how well the prep work was done and the quality of the paint that you use...
perfectly applied, low quality paint on an improperly prepped surface, can look good when its finished, but will look like he*l within a year or two.
if you do a good prep job and use good paint, the runs and brush marks you paint into it will invariably stay shiny and last for years and years
and remember that the quality and longevity of the finished project is not so much in how the paint is applied, but more so in how well the prep work was done and the quality of the paint that you use...
perfectly applied, low quality paint on an improperly prepped surface, can look good when its finished, but will look like he*l within a year or two.
if you do a good prep job and use good paint, the runs and brush marks you paint into it will invariably stay shiny and last for years and years
I'd have to say that the only problem is chalky oxadation. So I'll do the wet sand route which I'm really familiar with. I did it after refinishing my cabinet doors and companion way hatches, the finish turned out like a mirror. Thanks for the advice.
AStorzombie;
I use to be a Hunter dealer and the way described is what I did for my customers. Once done, apply Melges pure wax as a final layer. Remember, You need to wax topsides at least twice during the season and hull once. Topsides may required more waxing depending on the area if the sun is harsher. I used Finese it by 3 M in the paste form but remember slow speed no more than 1000 rpm and go over quickly or you can burn the gel coat with any compound.
I use to be a Hunter dealer and the way described is what I did for my customers. Once done, apply Melges pure wax as a final layer. Remember, You need to wax topsides at least twice during the season and hull once. Topsides may required more waxing depending on the area if the sun is harsher. I used Finese it by 3 M in the paste form but remember slow speed no more than 1000 rpm and go over quickly or you can burn the gel coat with any compound.
I agree with saving the gel coat. Painting is not a good option if all you have is oxidation. I'd even take it a little slower. You might try Soft Scrub. I've had a lot of luck with it. My thought is take off as little gel coat as possible. If Soft Scrub, or maybe even Bar Keepers doesn't work well enough, then go the light sanding route. Whatever you do apply wax after, as Crazy Dave suggests.