Has anyone out there ever used the Interlux 2 part polyurethane paint Perfection to paint a deck using a roller and brush as they recommend. How did it turn out? They say it can only be sprayed with an air fed respirator so it looks like I am limited to brush and roller. I would like to hear some else's experiences before going ahead with the project. I am just concerned since I am not painting the entire deck but just some repaired areas that the painted areas will look too thick in those areas. Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks
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more pics
rardi, do you have any additional pics. I am interested in painting my deck, H28.5 and I would love to be able to see more of what you did.
rardi, do you have any additional pics. I am interested in painting my deck, H28.5 and I would love to be able to see more of what you did.
Good results with Toplac
I've had fantastic results using Interlux Toplac. It goes on easily with brush or roller, and looks sprayed on with proper application.
I've had fantastic results using Interlux Toplac. It goes on easily with brush or roller, and looks sprayed on with proper application.
Question about handrails
What is the make and year of your boat? Are the handrails original? I have a Hunter 30 1979 and have redone the non-skid. I removed the handrails which were original teak and only had less than half the original thickness. So I am looking to replace them with stainless steel. I have seen the rail fittings on your boat and wondered if you like them? If you did the installation yourself would you do it again or go with a custom one piece bent handrail? My wife wants me to use a product called Plasteak. I have a curve to the cabin top so if I go with a one piece it will need to bend to follow the cabin top. I noticed you have used three separate section is that to follow the cabin top? Sorry for all the questions. I only want to it once. Thanks, Carl S/V Moonglow
What is the make and year of your boat? Are the handrails original? I have a Hunter 30 1979 and have redone the non-skid. I removed the handrails which were original teak and only had less than half the original thickness. So I am looking to replace them with stainless steel. I have seen the rail fittings on your boat and wondered if you like them? If you did the installation yourself would you do it again or go with a custom one piece bent handrail? My wife wants me to use a product called Plasteak. I have a curve to the cabin top so if I go with a one piece it will need to bend to follow the cabin top. I noticed you have used three separate section is that to follow the cabin top? Sorry for all the questions. I only want to it once. Thanks, Carl S/V Moonglow
Stainless handrails Purchase Location
Dear LakeTravisMan: The hand rail end fittings and tubing were purchased at Svendsen's Marine in Alameda CA. Telephone number for the Sales Desk is 1-800 824 2391. The end fittings (both fore and aft of each tube) are Sea Dog Stainless Steel 60 degree for 1" O.D. tube, Svendsen's part#: 285161-1. The SS tubing was also purchased at Svendsen's. The specification is: SS Tube, 1" .065 wall type 304. Svendsen's part#: ss1065304 Svendsen's web address is Svendsensmarine.com. But these items are not listed, so you would have to call. I bought longer pieces of tubing and cut to size myself using a hacksaw. I cut the tubing at a 60 degree angle (60 degrees from the horizontal) so that it conformed to the end fitting. As I mentioned in another post, to this thread: - Similar end fittings are available in chrome plated zinc-alum, which I first looked at since the cost is less than stainless. But since my boat is out in the elements, I did read, and have seen first hand, that the chrome/zinc-alum looses its luster and can get pitted. - The bottom of the fittings are flat as they come out of the package. My cabin top had a slight curvature. So for each fitting, I needed to grind a little bit out of flat bottom into a small concave arch to match the shape of the cabin top. I discovered that stainless steel didn't grind quickly on my small bench grinder. It took several hours to achieve the arch for all 12 of the fittings I needed. Something to check on your boat before deciding. regards, Rardi
Dear LakeTravisMan: The hand rail end fittings and tubing were purchased at Svendsen's Marine in Alameda CA. Telephone number for the Sales Desk is 1-800 824 2391. The end fittings (both fore and aft of each tube) are Sea Dog Stainless Steel 60 degree for 1" O.D. tube, Svendsen's part#: 285161-1. The SS tubing was also purchased at Svendsen's. The specification is: SS Tube, 1" .065 wall type 304. Svendsen's part#: ss1065304 Svendsen's web address is Svendsensmarine.com. But these items are not listed, so you would have to call. I bought longer pieces of tubing and cut to size myself using a hacksaw. I cut the tubing at a 60 degree angle (60 degrees from the horizontal) so that it conformed to the end fitting. As I mentioned in another post, to this thread: - Similar end fittings are available in chrome plated zinc-alum, which I first looked at since the cost is less than stainless. But since my boat is out in the elements, I did read, and have seen first hand, that the chrome/zinc-alum looses its luster and can get pitted. - The bottom of the fittings are flat as they come out of the package. My cabin top had a slight curvature. So for each fitting, I needed to grind a little bit out of flat bottom into a small concave arch to match the shape of the cabin top. I discovered that stainless steel didn't grind quickly on my small bench grinder. It took several hours to achieve the arch for all 12 of the fittings I needed. Something to check on your boat before deciding. regards, Rardi
Very nice picture
Rardi, I would like more information on the installation of the rails. I think I might go this route. My wife wants me to use Plasteak but just can't get myself to do it. The cost of replacing with a solid bent hand made stainless steel rail 6 feet long also hand bent to match the curve is $207.00 a side and four weeks to fabricate. I have seen some nice knob style fittings at NewFoundMetals that would give the boat a more classic look of the era. So any help would be great. Thanks, Carl S/V Moonglow
Rardi, I would like more information on the installation of the rails. I think I might go this route. My wife wants me to use Plasteak but just can't get myself to do it. The cost of replacing with a solid bent hand made stainless steel rail 6 feet long also hand bent to match the curve is $207.00 a side and four weeks to fabricate. I have seen some nice knob style fittings at NewFoundMetals that would give the boat a more classic look of the era. So any help would be great. Thanks, Carl S/V Moonglow
Hunter 30 1978 : Life Line Stanchions - Carl
Dear Carl: Maybe they are blocked by the stays on the picture that you posted, but I just noticed that it looks like you have removed the life-line stanchions? Its probable that the stanchion to toe rail mounting method on the 1979 Hunter 30 is the same as for my 1980 Hunter 36. Upcoming is the first rain season since I purchased my boat and I strongly suspect I will find some leaking into the cabin via the stanchion through-bolts. I have observed on my boat a galvanic reaction between the SS stanchions/bolts and the aluminum toe rail. From my high school chemistry, I postulate (probably wrongly) that the pure aluminum Al atoms in the toe rail would be oxidized to Al2O3 molecules which takes up more volume than just the Al atom. The stanchion is held in place against the toe rail by the bolts, so the higher volume Al203 apparently has forced the aluminum toe rail to bend downward (rather than the stanchion rising up) and the fiberglass around a couple of the stanchions is deformed downwards as well. Perfect depressions for water to collect and leak through. If you have removed the stanchions, did you see this phenomenum on your boat? Were they difficult to remove (i.e. frozen nuts/bolts)? What will be your method of repair/rebedding? thanks in advance and regards, rardi
Dear Carl: Maybe they are blocked by the stays on the picture that you posted, but I just noticed that it looks like you have removed the life-line stanchions? Its probable that the stanchion to toe rail mounting method on the 1979 Hunter 30 is the same as for my 1980 Hunter 36. Upcoming is the first rain season since I purchased my boat and I strongly suspect I will find some leaking into the cabin via the stanchion through-bolts. I have observed on my boat a galvanic reaction between the SS stanchions/bolts and the aluminum toe rail. From my high school chemistry, I postulate (probably wrongly) that the pure aluminum Al atoms in the toe rail would be oxidized to Al2O3 molecules which takes up more volume than just the Al atom. The stanchion is held in place against the toe rail by the bolts, so the higher volume Al203 apparently has forced the aluminum toe rail to bend downward (rather than the stanchion rising up) and the fiberglass around a couple of the stanchions is deformed downwards as well. Perfect depressions for water to collect and leak through. If you have removed the stanchions, did you see this phenomenum on your boat? Were they difficult to remove (i.e. frozen nuts/bolts)? What will be your method of repair/rebedding? thanks in advance and regards, rardi
Hunter 30 1978 : Life Line Stanchions REPLY
Rardi, With regards to the stanchions on the Hunter 30 they are away from the toe rail and on a wood pad glassed into the deck, if you look closely to my picture I sent earlier. I had some rotting of the core there so used some penetrating epoxy then predrilled. I used a similar method of embedding the stanchions. The only problem is that the base for the middle stanchion is located right where a main internal brace for the standing rigging. They just notched the member so there is no room for a finger to get the nut on the bolt. There was a lot of bad language during that point. If they never leak again I will never take them off. The issue with the base of the handrail is not as a sever problem on the Hunter 30 since they ride a little higher than and not as close to the edge as the Hunter 36. Either way my marina operator likes playing with metal and has a large assortment of devices to ease the base to fit the contour of the cabin top if I need it. Did you through bolt the stanchions or just screw them to the cabin top? Regards, Carl S/V Moonglow
Rardi, With regards to the stanchions on the Hunter 30 they are away from the toe rail and on a wood pad glassed into the deck, if you look closely to my picture I sent earlier. I had some rotting of the core there so used some penetrating epoxy then predrilled. I used a similar method of embedding the stanchions. The only problem is that the base for the middle stanchion is located right where a main internal brace for the standing rigging. They just notched the member so there is no room for a finger to get the nut on the bolt. There was a lot of bad language during that point. If they never leak again I will never take them off. The issue with the base of the handrail is not as a sever problem on the Hunter 30 since they ride a little higher than and not as close to the edge as the Hunter 36. Either way my marina operator likes playing with metal and has a large assortment of devices to ease the base to fit the contour of the cabin top if I need it. Did you through bolt the stanchions or just screw them to the cabin top? Regards, Carl S/V Moonglow
SS Handrail Fittings Secured w Screws
Carl: Thanks for your description of you stanchion layout and project. Yes is seems different than mine. And yes, I expect that I also will be muttering in frustration when I try to get the bolts/nuts out. The access to them from the interior is quite confined. No need to try anymore with the picture. For the hand rails fittings, I used SS oval head phillips screws. The 1980 Hunter 36 has a solid fiberglass interior headliner so running bolts all the way through would have been unsightly. The original teak handrail was secured by the factory with much smaller diameter screws than for the new fittings. So I didn't see any reason not to use screws again. There are two screws on each fitting. They seem to be embedded into the fiberglass securely. I did cut a corner by not first routing out some of the interior wood core at each hole, filling with epoxy, and then after the epoxy set, drilling the holes for the screws. My sailboat repair book says that doing this is good practice whenever rebedding hardware. Stronger and if the caulk seal fails, water can't migrate through the expoxy into the core. This extra step wasn't done by Hunter and the seal did last 27 years until I took the hand rails off. Good chance that the boat won't be around for another 27 years and I probably won't be either), so good enough! regards, rardi
Carl: Thanks for your description of you stanchion layout and project. Yes is seems different than mine. And yes, I expect that I also will be muttering in frustration when I try to get the bolts/nuts out. The access to them from the interior is quite confined. No need to try anymore with the picture. For the hand rails fittings, I used SS oval head phillips screws. The 1980 Hunter 36 has a solid fiberglass interior headliner so running bolts all the way through would have been unsightly. The original teak handrail was secured by the factory with much smaller diameter screws than for the new fittings. So I didn't see any reason not to use screws again. There are two screws on each fitting. They seem to be embedded into the fiberglass securely. I did cut a corner by not first routing out some of the interior wood core at each hole, filling with epoxy, and then after the epoxy set, drilling the holes for the screws. My sailboat repair book says that doing this is good practice whenever rebedding hardware. Stronger and if the caulk seal fails, water can't migrate through the expoxy into the core. This extra step wasn't done by Hunter and the seal did last 27 years until I took the hand rails off. Good chance that the boat won't be around for another 27 years and I probably won't be either), so good enough! regards, rardi
Painted boat with Interlux Perfection
Over the last two years I have painted my topsides with 2 part Interlux in two colors; white on most of it and light gray on the deck skid. It looks excellent and is amazingly durable. I also painted the sides of my boat this past spring with Interlux Perfection, maritius blue. The sides look very good, also not Perfect. I used a roll and brush tip method on the topsides and because I have significant contracting experience in house remodeling and painting via various spray systems, used an HVLP spray system on the hull. I had to build a plastic enclosure over the entire boat for the hull job and I have a good ambient air system. The fumes are very dangerous. Preparation, temperature, quality equipment, and forgiving patience are the additional tools needed besides the paint and thinners. I have a 1985 Hunter 31 that looks very good, not perfect. I would brush and roll anything on the boat with Perfection, adhering to directions carefully. I would not spray again, not use any Perfection that is a dark color. A pro would and many have, but spraying is another ball of wax. There are many parts of my boat that look new and the parts that have a few brush marks in them are very acceptable. I say go do it. Its excellent boat paint and conscientious do it yourselfers can do well.
Over the last two years I have painted my topsides with 2 part Interlux in two colors; white on most of it and light gray on the deck skid. It looks excellent and is amazingly durable. I also painted the sides of my boat this past spring with Interlux Perfection, maritius blue. The sides look very good, also not Perfect. I used a roll and brush tip method on the topsides and because I have significant contracting experience in house remodeling and painting via various spray systems, used an HVLP spray system on the hull. I had to build a plastic enclosure over the entire boat for the hull job and I have a good ambient air system. The fumes are very dangerous. Preparation, temperature, quality equipment, and forgiving patience are the additional tools needed besides the paint and thinners. I have a 1985 Hunter 31 that looks very good, not perfect. I would brush and roll anything on the boat with Perfection, adhering to directions carefully. I would not spray again, not use any Perfection that is a dark color. A pro would and many have, but spraying is another ball of wax. There are many parts of my boat that look new and the parts that have a few brush marks in them are very acceptable. I say go do it. Its excellent boat paint and conscientious do it yourselfers can do well.
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