I know their is a wealth of knowledge on this forum, but i am hoping the answers to this, leave me less confussed than i am just now. I am re painting my boat, decided to re spray gel coat on the blue band that goes round the water line, (just to see how the gel coat looks) the line is about five inches wide, and blue, i also intend to paint barrier coat bellow that, above it, i want to spray paint, with primer, and top coat, i am in the process of sanding the old paint off, and hope to have it ready to paint by 9 april, which is the time that for this area, hummidity is at its lowest. I intend to spray paint above the water line, dont want to use awlgrip, want to use a two part epoxy, what paint should I choose, also its a hobby, and my wife hates me spending money on it, so i want a cheap two pack paint, that i can spray, what paint do i need.
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I'm planning on using Interlux for our project, I'm leaning towards the 2 part product.
I hear that it is a more durable paint & will last longer when compared to the single part products, but jury's still out on that one for me. I'm not going to spray,don't feel qualified for that, going to brush & roll it out. Paint itself is pretty cheap, it's the labor that goes into the prep that tears up your time.
I hear that it is a more durable paint & will last longer when compared to the single part products, but jury's still out on that one for me. I'm not going to spray,don't feel qualified for that, going to brush & roll it out. Paint itself is pretty cheap, it's the labor that goes into the prep that tears up your time.
i have been haveing this debate in my mind for about two years now.......as said in the post above ....prep is 90% of the process.....as for the paint above the water line i am useing a single stage urathaine paint with a hardner that is likened to Emron by dupont...as for the primer i am useing a epoxey base primer in order to not have birth marks bleed through the new color ...i will be hand sanding it for color coats with 320 grit .....when spraying be sure you use a good resprator...not just a dust mask.....and when through spraying make sure you get the equiptment clean up fast or you will wish you had in the long run......if you have a ppg automotive/industrial supplier in your area check with them for the paint products...again prep is 90% of the paint job...... so go slow ....hope this helps...
regards
woody
regards
woody
You really have to match the respirator cartridge/filter/absorber to the paint you are using. The worst and most dangerous paints to spray are the 2 part Polyurethanes, in which the micro aerosols are easily carried 'through' such absorber/filters and should require either a self contained breathing system (SCBA) or respirator system that has an added very high quality 'coalescer' to trap the 'liquids'. Such 2 part paints contain chemicals similar to (isocyanates) that killed many hundreds in Bhopal, India in the 1980s and the extremely fine LIQUID aerosolized particles are not readily captured by 'respirators'.
For any topside, etc. paint you intend to spray, be sure to get the paint's 'technical manual / data sheets' ... and dont 'just read the label on the can'. The risk is permanent lung damage.
For any topside, etc. paint you intend to spray, be sure to get the paint's 'technical manual / data sheets' ... and dont 'just read the label on the can'. The risk is permanent lung damage.
the equipment to spray two part anythings....is quite elaborate, expensive and without the safety gear a hazard in MANY ways to both your health and your project.
Whilst PPG is a good automotive paint supplier..their marine stuff is pretty limited ...you would be better served with a marine paint by one of Akzo Nobel brands like Interlux
Spraying and mixing are as much "art" as science and are very difficult to get proper results without temp and humidity control, in addition to positive air, no bugs, etc...
of course, your project....YMMV, etc...
Whilst PPG is a good automotive paint supplier..their marine stuff is pretty limited ...you would be better served with a marine paint by one of Akzo Nobel brands like Interlux
Spraying and mixing are as much "art" as science and are very difficult to get proper results without temp and humidity control, in addition to positive air, no bugs, etc...
of course, your project....YMMV, etc...
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What is your real location as despite the 50 degree claim 70 is a more realistic minium temperature IF you want the paint to dry in a reasonable amount of time and work as intended 
Cheep and two part does not exist
I am a fairly talented fabricator and painter, and i build and paint pretty nice steel bicycles and once you step up to a boat size project your equipment and knowable is pretty useless as your going from 100 ML of paint shot in 10 minutes to a gallon shot over hours
Even if you start with reasonable gelcoat the amount of time just to get primer ready is mind boggling
While the 545 primer is some dangerous stuff it is EASY to spray and the danger can be controlled with good common scene KEEP IN MIND for example that the plastic tarps make CRAZY AMOUNTS OF STATIC SPARKS if you rub against them
Then you gotta wet sand a massive amount of primed area
Then if you value your health your gonna ROLL & TIP and SAVE A TON OF MONEY because you can do a coat of Awlgrip on a 29' hull with 24 oz of base color mixed to 2:1:1 ratio which yields 48 oz of material which is NOT gonna happen with spray
And then you enjoy your nice looking boat with paint that will LAST
and go sailing like you supposed to
Cheep and two part does not exist
I am a fairly talented fabricator and painter, and i build and paint pretty nice steel bicycles and once you step up to a boat size project your equipment and knowable is pretty useless as your going from 100 ML of paint shot in 10 minutes to a gallon shot over hours
Even if you start with reasonable gelcoat the amount of time just to get primer ready is mind boggling
While the 545 primer is some dangerous stuff it is EASY to spray and the danger can be controlled with good common scene KEEP IN MIND for example that the plastic tarps make CRAZY AMOUNTS OF STATIC SPARKS if you rub against them
Then you gotta wet sand a massive amount of primed area
Then if you value your health your gonna ROLL & TIP and SAVE A TON OF MONEY because you can do a coat of Awlgrip on a 29' hull with 24 oz of base color mixed to 2:1:1 ratio which yields 48 oz of material which is NOT gonna happen with spray
And then you enjoy your nice looking boat with paint that will LAST
and go sailing like you supposed to
Not only is the ambient temperature and humidity important to consider, so too is the actual temperature of the surface you plan to paint.
and you are really in for some fun when one or the other changes more than you planned for .....
You look like you know what you are talking about, so give me your advice, i have done loads of painting, by roller and brush on ships, used two pack paint, i know the dangers or paint, as my first summer job when i was in high school was washing boats, but my second summer job was in a paint and body shop, where they had five gallon cans of celulose thinners, and one day i sat on one, the cans had a hole punched for air to get in, but the lid on them, when they poured the stuff out, it would clean pour, due the the air hole, the guy in charge told me not to sit there, as he had known a guy that always sat on the cans to eat his lunch, and he died of cancer, his whole insides, were cancer ridden, dont know if it was just a story, but i can believe it. I have a mask, and a spray gun, but, dont know that my mask is up to any great type of contaminent, i preped cars, for a couple of years during high school days, so i know about prep, and i do know what will show through the paint, I know the smallest blemish, willl show throgh spray paint, I have done quite a bit of spray work, i worked mainly industrial, i worked in israel spraying the inside of pipes, while i was in there, and that wasnt good, because as soon as you pulled the trigger, you couldnt see anything, or breath. Thing is, i paint all the time, i have rental properties, i am always painting, and i painted on ships for years, used all types of paint, i sprayed two cars, and a motor scooter, but, to brush paint a sail boat, suerly i would need to do it in sections, and i can only see it diveded into three sections, and the stren is easy, but the other two sections are huge, so how do you do it.What is your real location as despite the 50 degree claim 70 is a more realistic minium temperature IF you want the paint to dry in a reasonable amount of time and work as intended
Cheep and two part does not exist
I am a fairly talented fabricator and painter, and i build and paint pretty nice steel bicycles and once you step up to a boat size project your equipment and knowable is pretty useless as your going from 100 ML of paint shot in 10 minutes to a gallon shot over hours
Even if you start with reasonable gelcoat the amount of time just to get primer ready is mind boggling
While the 545 primer is some dangerous stuff it is EASY to spray and the danger can be controlled with good common scene KEEP IN MIND for example that the plastic tarps make CRAZY AMOUNTS OF STATIC SPARKS if you rub against them
Then you gotta wet sand a massive amount of primed area
Then if you value your health your gonna ROLL & TIP and SAVE A TON OF MONEY because you can do a coat of Awlgrip on a 29' hull with 24 oz of base color mixed to 2:1:1 ratio which yields 48 oz of material which is NOT gonna happen with spray
And then you enjoy your nice looking boat with paint that will LAST
and go sailing like you supposed to
Al
I have to go out right now but i will link to the guides i used and point you in the right direction as best as i can with a keyboard
When does it get warm there as i would think it still kind of cold April 4 to shoot but you could do all the prep i had to wait till May out here to finish ?
I have to go out right now but i will link to the guides i used and point you in the right direction as best as i can with a keyboard
When does it get warm there as i would think it still kind of cold April 4 to shoot but you could do all the prep i had to wait till May out here to finish ?
Al: I am just curious about gel coat and paint! Why would you spray gelcoat for the boot stripe and paint about that? Why not just spray gelcoat for the entire hull?
I wanted to spray gel coat on the entire hull, but everyone advised me it was such a work up, that it wasnt worth doing, as it had to be sanded afterwards, with wet and dry, gradually getting finer, then an abrasive polish, followed by coating it with polish, it was just too much work, but i decieded i would spray the blue band with gelcoat, and see how that turned out, before i made my decission, so i bought the blue gel coat to do it with, but then decided, after i did that, i was just going to paint above it. I would prefer to spray gel coat on the whole hull, as it lasts longer, but its just way too much work.
Hey Tommays nice job
I would like to have done my boat but , Im 74 and I just had back surgery in Jan. So my boat is now at a good local reconditioning shop Should be done by May.
I would like to have done my boat but , Im 74 and I just had back surgery in Jan. So my boat is now at a good local reconditioning shop Should be done by May.
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