Paint Quanities for a 26 S or D Bottom....

[Sumner]

This spring I'm going to put a barrier coat on the bottom and then an anti-fouling paint over that.

It looks like the bottom is somewhere around 175 sq. ft., but that is a rough estimate. It looks like the epoxy barrier coats cover about 200 square feet and the bottom paints about 400 square feet.

For the Barrier Paint I'm looking at either....

Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff High-Build Epoxy Primer

http://bottompaintstore.com/Tuff-Stuff-High-Build-Epoxy-Primer-2GL-KIT-1284-2GL-KIT.htm

I like the 2 coat aspect and cost of the above and the application time windows.

or use............

Pettit 4700 Protect Barrier Coat

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|296162|11453|311507&id=105646

They want you to use 3 coats of this stuff.

========================================

For the bottom paint I thinking of using either ....

Pettit Ultima SR-40 Dual Biocide Ablative

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp...11000|311497|368327&id=1125440&cartId=1588213

or.....

West Marine PCA Gold Antifouling Paint with Irgarol

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=44&subdeptNum=229&classNum=229

From what I read they are suppose to be the same paint and Pettit packages the PCA for West Marine.

I'd like to get the bottom paint in black and blue. I'd put 2 coats of black all the way up to the top of the waterline and then a third coat in that area. Then come up to the bottom of the water line with the blue. This would use the black for the waterline (I want it a little higer than the present one--guess why ). Then when the blue wears through to the black re-coat with more blue.

===========================

So the question is how many gallons of barrier paint did you use and how many coats and the brand for your S or D?

How many gallons did you use for a bottom paint and how many coats and what brand?

Thanks and throw out any other thoughts you might have,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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[Justin_NSA]

I did mine last spring. I wet-sanded down to the barrier coat and rolled on 2 ablative coats of Pettit Vivid in black. It only took 1 gallon including the centerboard on my 26S. I slip my boat all season. When I hauled Cuivienen out in the fall I had zero zebra mussels and they are bad on our lake!
I bought my paint at Defender. Pettit was offering a $50 rebate at the time. I took the new can to Lowe's to get it shaken on the way out to the boatyard. They were surprised how heavy it was!

 

[Sumner]

I did mine last spring. I wet-sanded down to the barrier coat and rolled on 2 ablative coats of Pettit Vivid in black. It only took 1 gallon including the centerboard on my 26S. I slip my boat all season. When I hauled Cuivienen out in the fall I had zero zebra mussels and they are bad on our lake!
I bought my paint at Defender. Pettit was offering a $50 rebate at the time. I took the new can to Lowe's to get it shaken on the way out to the boatyard. They were surprised how heavy it was!

Justin thanks. Sounds like 2 gallons of ablative would give me 3 coats and 1 coat later. Did you put the barrier coat on? If so do you remember how far a gallon went? Looks like they usually say about 1/2 as far as the ablative, so I'm hoping one gallon per coat. If that is so then the 2 gallon package of the "Tuff Stuff" would do it. I'll take a look at the Vivid also. I hadn't seen it in the past. I wonder how it works in salt water (Florida)?

Anyone else have some suggestions as to what worked for them?

Thanks,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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[Justin_NSA]

I can't help you on the barrier coat Sum. A PO or the dealer must have done it. Good luck!

 

[walt]

When I got my boat, the ablative paint surface had been neglected for a few years and was pretty rough. All Ive done is to sand down the rough spots but its probably time for maintenance.

Since Ive already got the ablative paint on, I'm also going to touch it up with ablative paint when it warms up a little.

Just wondering if ablative paint goes on nice and smooth? Can it be a relatively "fast" surface or do you just give that up? My surface was probably a combo of old ablative paint and plant growth but it must have slowed the boat down.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Pettit Vivid is what they call "self polishing" so it is supposed to get smooth. The reason I sanded off the old ablative was for adhesion compatibility. Pettit lists what their products work with but since I didn't know what I had I removed it.

 

[Sumner]

........Just wondering if ablative paint goes on nice and smooth? Can it be a relatively "fast" surface or do you just give that up? My surface was probably a combo of old ablative paint and plant growth but it must have slowed the boat down.

Well................

Pettit Vivid is what they call "self polishing" so it is supposed to get smooth. The reason I sanded off the old ablative was for adhesion compatibility. Pettit lists what their products work with but since I didn't know what I had I removed it.

Walt I would look at the Vivid. I wasn't aware of it until Justin brought it to my attention. The reviews I've read either hated it or loved it and since we are concerned with the Zebra's it sounds like it did good there.

It is also a biocide, so it works on slime growth. The big thing is that it is a new hybrid that combines the hard and ablative. It can come out of the water for extended periods and still work like an ablative, but it is kind of like a hard in that they really recommend it for racing and they also really recommend it for trailering since it won't rub off on the bunks like the other softer ablatives. That has a lot of appeal to me as if we do what we want to do this next year the boat might be on the trailer for about 6000 miles. It also comes in brighter and more colors. Not real cheap at about $174 a gallon, but only about $15 more than the other paint I was going to use.

Since we will be in Florida hopefully for a while I'm going to see if anyone down there has been using it and how they like it. Personally I think it would be ideal for your needs and probably ours.

c ya,

Sum

 

[MrBill_FLL]

sorry, I have no help to offer here... but,

have you tried searching sailing anarchy? (just don't say you own a Mac...)

that site is mostly racers.. lots of practical experience.

(key west RW, was last week, so it should be pretty active)




http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/in...sts&result_type=topics&highlite=+pettit+vivid

 

[beamreach]

I have really liked Pettit Vivid, although I don't leave our boat in the water over a week at a time. The thing I like most is that it stays on the boat, not my hands and not my trailer bunks. We are in our 4th year and still looking good. One gallon did the job.

 

[MSN-Travelers]

I put on barrier and bottom paint last spring. I started with a fresh hull. I have an "M" & I think you may have slightly less area to paint.

I used Interlux 2000E for the barrier coat. I bought two 1-gallon kits, one grey and one white. I was able to get two complete coats of paint with each gallon. I alternated grey, white, grey with the final coat of white. This allowed me to see and ensure complete coverage with each coat.

I used Pettit Vivid for the bottom paint because it is a non-ablative, hard finish with multi-season effectiveness. It stays on the boat and doesn't transfer to the trailer bunks when I pull the boat. One gallon provided two coats with a little left over.

I keep my boat in a slip on Lake Michigan. There was a little fuzz on the bottom when I hauled the boat at the end of the season. It came off easily with a whimpy pressure washer. :dance:

 

[Sumner]

Thanks guys, I ordered the paint the other day. I ended up ordering the 2 gallon kit of Seahawk's Tuff Stuff for the barrier coat........................

http://www.bottompaintstore.com/Tuff-Stuff-High-Build-Epoxy-Primer-2GL-KIT-1284-2GL-KIT.htm

I ordered 1 gallon of black and 1 gallon of Seahawk's Dark Blue Cukote Biocide Plus Self-Polishing Bottom Paint ............

http://www.bottompaintstore.com/Cukote-Biocide-Plus-Self-Polishing-Bottom-Paint-GL-3500-GL.htm

The bottom paint is a little harder than the Pettit Ultima SR 40 and softer than the Pettit Vivid. I almost went with the Vivid, but read mixed reviews about it for southern Florida if the boat was in the water for any length of time. Inland lakes and in and out of coastal waters I think it is probably the best trailer-able paint I found research wise. I just wanted something that had a little better record for longer term in the water.

I'm going to put on 2 coats of the Tuff Stuff and then 2 coats of Black bottom paint with one coat of the Dark Blue over that. Should then end up with enough of the dark blue to re-coat latter.

I appreciate everyone's input on here and the other forum. There are lots of products out there that would probably give us the same or better results, we just decided to use these.

I called Seahawk with a couple questions and the person that answered the phone was quite helpful. That was nice. The Bottom Paint Store where we ordered was also real helpful and they had free shipping which helped with the increased cost of the bottom paint over some of the others we were considering.

c ya,

Sum

 

[caguy]

Sum, how long do you plan on being on the water? Do you really need a bottom paint? Would a good waxing of the bottom allow you to clean the algae off with just an pressure wash or light scrubbing?
I plan on having mine in sa;t water for 2-3 weeks at a time and am not sure if I even need bottom paint.

 

[Sumner]

If things go right we will be in the northeast in fresh and salt water for 1 1/2 to 2 months early summer and then hopefully for 2 to 3 months in the fall in Florida.

Our bottom is about perfect now with no blisters and I want to keep it that way and not take a chance. This is going to be work, but a lot less than repairing blisters. If I'm going to put the barrier coat on then I probably have no choice, but to put the bottom coat on and we wanted it anyway, so we didn't have to keep cleaning the bottom. We want to have as good a time as we can with as little upkeep on the trips as possible.

I realize that we might never get blisters, but I just don't want to take the chance and hopefully our health will hold and we will be taking some more long trips in the future.

If we were only going to be in the water 2-3 weeks we wouldn't do the bottom paint. We've been in that long already twice with no problems, but that is in fresh water that you can see the bottom 20-30 feet deep. We also don't want to get any zebra mussels on the boat period if we can help it.

Which boat are you talking about, you will have a whole fleet soon .

c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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[Nik]

One thing that us water ballast folks do that keep our boats in the water, is to add a gallon of bleach through the vent hole after we close the fill valve. Keeps the water from turning nasty and kills the critters. After 6 months of sitting there and in the fall pull out, you can smell chlorine when drained. I've peeked inside mine with a scope and it looks good.

 

[Sumner]

...........add a gallon of bleach through the vent hole.......

I've read that, now I just have to remember to do it :cry:. Keep reminding me ,

Sum

 

[walt]

I just ordered a gallon of Petit Vivid - thanks for all the advice given here. Seems will work good for my boat which spends a lot of time on the trailer and about 5 weeks in fresh water at 5100 feet el and another 6 weeks at 8600 feet. Compatibility chart also called it a littler more racing oriented I guess because of the harder finish.

There is some real chalky ablative paint on the boat already. I talked to the dealer where I bought the boat a few years ago (Anchorage) and they thought the existing paint probably was either Trinidad Petit or "CSC Interlux" I cant find CSC interlux on the Petit compatibility chart, only Micron CSC. If its either of these, I would just need to sand "a bit" but would not need to completely remove it.

However, if the old paint is VC17 or bottomkote (and some others I have not heard of), it needs to be removed..

Is there any way at all to tell what the old paint is? Its definitely very chalky - a brush of your hand and you got a nice blue chalk to deal with.

I may have to do the same as Justin did - sand it all off.. Sounds like a really FUN job.

Interesting also.. I understand a lot of times, bottom paint was applied but without an epoxy barrier coat. I have no idea if I have a barrier coat or not and also am not going to worry about it - just put the Petit Vivid on.. I dont have any blisters and I think the boat has spent a lot of time in a slip in the past.

 

[Justin_NSA]

" I may have to do the same as Justin did - sand it all off.. Sounds like a really FUN job."

You'll love it Walt - NOT! I looked like a Smurf after a day of wet sandng. I recommend disposable coveralls, gloves and a mask. It will still find your skin though. The stuff is toxic so be careful. Wet sanding minimizes dust.

 

[Sumner]

.........Is there any way at all to tell what the old paint is? ........................ I have no idea if I have a barrier coat or not............

Sand a small area when the weather works and try painting a test spot. If nothing funny happened going on and a week or so later it looked to have a good bond I wouldn't worry about it.

Also while sanding if you sand through the bottom paint and don't get to another paint before you get to the gel coat then I wouldn't think you have a barrier coat.

If you don't have blisters now then maybe you won't ever get them. Since ours has just been in the water about 24 days on the Canada trip and 18 on the Lake Powell and I have no idea what happened with the previous owner I figured I wouldn't take a chance. $120 for the barrier coat is not bad and I sure hate to have to take all of the bottom paint off and fix blisters in the future it that happened. $120 would look pretty cheap at that point. Also I don't like the idea of sanding the gel coat and then just putting the bottom paint on. That possibly could open voids that aren't there now which might promote blisters. You don't have to do that, just sand the current bottom paint and go. You shouldn't get into the gel coat. Someone probably did though to apply the bottom paint that is on there now, but it hasn't presented a problem.

c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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[walt]

try painting a test spot

Sumner, good idea, Ill do this. Justin, thanks a LOT for getting me fired up for this job.

Over the last three years, Ive been sanding the bottom to make it smoother so I already know what a wonderful pleasurable job this is. One picture is from when I first bought the boat (almost didn't because of how bad the bottom looked), second picture is from last week. So the sanding job is already over 50% done. I don't expect to get all the paint off - so will do the test Sumner suggested.

 

[beamreach]

Interesting to read all this discussion. When I bought my 26c, it had spent some of its life in salt and some in fresh and some on a trailer. There were signs of barnacles at the water line. It had an old black, soft bottom paint on it that came off on my hand. I pressure washed most of it off. EASY! I found some areas that looked more like small gouges than blisters and filled them with marinetex and sanded those areas. I did not sand the whole bottom and put no barrier coat on. I painted 2 coats of pettit vivid. That was 4 years ago and no problems. I do not leave my boat in the water over a week at a time and it lives on its trailer. The pettit has stuck to unsanded areas all this time. I'm not promoting you guys take the easy way out but it has sure worked for me. Hey, I admit it. I'm lazy especially when iit comes to lying on my back filling the air from a power sander with dust that'd kill half the wildlife around here much less old me.