Paint or Gel Coat

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James Marohn

Absolute newbie here, so please bare with me... Recently I've had the unfortunate task of chiseling concrete off the deck of our 89 Hunter Vision 32. We moore across from a concrete factory, when the wind blows, dust settle on our boat, add moistures and it cements onto our white deck. Needless to say, it's aweful and we'll be moving shortly. In the mean time, my efforts in removing the cement and some of the finer particles has resulted in a slight mar to the normally polished white surface. I had to use Scotch Bright in conjunction with a Soft Scrub. In short, I had to 'sand' off the cement. My questions are: Did I sand off white paint or gel coat? Any recommendation as to how to restore the original gloss and polished look? And lastly, any recommendation as to how to remove the cement from the textured non-skid areas? Any input is greatly appreciated... Thanks! Tina & James Marohn Perelandra - Seattle, WA
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,187
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Check with the cement factory..

..I know they get damage claims and they may even have a firm to do it for you. You SHOULD NOT have residue from operations on your boat. Having said that, the gell coat will have to be restored by probably compounding and rewaxing. I would recommend no further removal without first getting recommendations from someone familiar in the area with the problem, like a boat detailer. Also, be very careful with the plexiglass. You may need some professional assistance. Good luck, RD
 
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Dave Viglierchio

Muriatic Acid

For many years in the construction industry the trick the people in the cement and masonry trades used to clean splatter off our trucks was a solution of muriatic acid. You could probably have save the scratching effects by dissoving the cement spots. Naturally you would want to start with a weak solution and work up to the right strength. A pool contractor or pool supply house may be able to advise you. How to fix the problem now I'll leave to those who know what your finish is. A lot of polishing I suspect will be the answer.
 
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Dan Ulrich

Poli Glow

James: Re: restoring shine & finish, check out Paradigm-Products.com website.
 
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Dave Viglierchio

Newglass2

This just came in an e-mail and seems to answeryour question of repair after scrubbing. www.newglass2.com we make it shine we are the leader in fiberglass maintenance and restoration RATED # 1 April 2000 HI ALL The Jan and Feb. Boat Shows were the best ever Here are some ideas we got from some of you Question of the month ?????? What do I do to reapply Newglass? Simple just do a good wash down and remove any brown water stain with Newglass Stain Remover and then go over area with 1000 or 1200 ultra fine wet and dry sandpaper with water. This does a leveling job where you may have rubbed Newglass off and cleans surface. I also sometimes just scrub with Soft Scrub and a green scrub pad this does the same but seems to same that washing step. I am going to use Newglass for the first time I'm scared DON'T BE, thousands have used it and it works, just keep it simple. !. Wash down boat and remove brown water stains with acid and a trick for black streaks is wipe off with acetone and on a white boat you are ready. On a colored surface red, blue black etc. you may want go scrub with Soft Scrub to remove any oxidation or even use 1000 or 1200 ultra fine wet dry sandpaper with water. THIS IS NOT NECESSARY ON WHITE OR CREAM COLORS. NO RUBBING COMPOUNDS REQUIRED
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Re New Glass: Don't!

You got spammed by Kurt too, huh? He's been banned from several websites (including this one, I think) for using directories to e-mailed registered users. You will LOVE New Glass for the first season...maybe even two...until sun, salt, foot traffic and UV take their toll and it has to be redone. It ALL has to come off, and removing it is the job from hell. It doesn't scrub off, it doesn't sand off, the only thing that WILL take it off is New Glass' own remover or Ace Hardware brand acrylic floor finish remover (which is the same thing for half the price) and more elbow grease than it takes to compound your entire boat 3 times. I made the mistake of using it on my boat a few years ago...finally had to call a detailer to get it off. She told me that if I wanted to put it back on, I'd have to call another dealer next time. I went back to wax.
 
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Mike

Really Works

This works for me. 600-800 grit sandpaper (VERY FINE) wet it and sand out area. Wash clean fresh water!! Follow up by applying 3-M Micro finnish ( available at West Marine, about 19.00 a qt)place this on a wool buffing wheel and buff for a minute or so. A variable speed buffer(is a must)Try and keep 3k rpm or less. Apply your favoriter carnuba or Marine wax and buff. No joke it will lookl nearly new!I learned this from a fiberglass guy at my yard. It does take time but thershine is well worth the time. Good luck.
 
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Larry Stewart

Mike is right!

Use the Wet/Dry sandpaper 800 or 1000 grits. It's called wet sanding...just make sure that water is dripping on the area the whole time you are sanding to keep the area wet and use back and forth stokes. I use this method to redo my 63 corvette to take the years of road grime off the car and the concept works just as good on a sailboat. Buffing it afterward with a polish will make it look better than new. So enjoy but ensure that water is on the area the whole time while sanding...that's the secret. ...Larry...
 
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Trevor

Ah, Harbor Island...

... that must be where your boat is located (I think I've seena Vision there - must be your's?). I used to live aboard at that marina. Couldn't STAND the grime! It used to be worth it since moorage was cheap, but since the Port of Seattle took over, moorage is almost as much as Shilshole! Even if the drive is further (we live in West Seattle), you don't deserve that kind of grime if you're paying the big bucks!
 
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