I have a bronze propeller shaft on my 1992 H28 that has a slight bend in it. This is causing an unacceptable amount of vibration at any engine RPM (while in gear). I have sent the propeller off to be reconditioned and still need to remove the shaft and cutlass bearing. It appears that I will need to drop the rudder in order to get the shaft out. The aluminum steering quadrant has 4 main bolts, 2 bolts on the rim, and one big bolt through the rudder post. I can't seem to get the bolts to break free. I'm afraid that I'll break the heads off the bolts. Does anyone have any idea of how to get the quadrant off without damaging it? I really really need advice on how to get the propeller shaft out! Any suggestions on what else I should do (maintenance wise) while I have the quadrant off and the rudder dropped? Thanks.
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Pull the Strut
Hello Steve, I had the same project going on my 33.5 a few years ago. I needed to replace my shaft. Instead of droping the rudder, we removed the strut. Then the shaft just barely made it by the rudder. This was much eaiser then pulling the rudder. Phil
Hello Steve, I had the same project going on my 33.5 a few years ago. I needed to replace my shaft. Instead of droping the rudder, we removed the strut. Then the shaft just barely made it by the rudder. This was much eaiser then pulling the rudder. Phil
Yep,
And before you loosen the strut bolts, try sliding the shaft past the rudder. After the shaft is clear of the log, slop in the cutlass bearing might give you the needed movement to get past the rudder. Works on my H34.
And before you loosen the strut bolts, try sliding the shaft past the rudder. After the shaft is clear of the log, slop in the cutlass bearing might give you the needed movement to get past the rudder. Works on my H34.
WD-40
I had the same situation with the bent prop shaft. WD-40 on those bolts should help loosen them, let them soak for a couple of days. Besure the Wd-40 is coating all the threads in every area you can access. The next thing is what to do with that shaft.. I opted for a new one, ordered it from a company in Florida, in Brandonton I think. The cost was not that bad, measured the old one, they shipped me a brand new one made from S.S. for not too much more than the cost to recondition the old one. Seems like I paid about 180 but would need to check my records on that. If you drop your rudder, its an excellent time to recondition it. I resealed mine after it dried out for 2 months using epoxy. Smoothed and faired and repainted. Looked and performs as new now. Happy boat work and fair winds after you splash!
I had the same situation with the bent prop shaft. WD-40 on those bolts should help loosen them, let them soak for a couple of days. Besure the Wd-40 is coating all the threads in every area you can access. The next thing is what to do with that shaft.. I opted for a new one, ordered it from a company in Florida, in Brandonton I think. The cost was not that bad, measured the old one, they shipped me a brand new one made from S.S. for not too much more than the cost to recondition the old one. Seems like I paid about 180 but would need to check my records on that. If you drop your rudder, its an excellent time to recondition it. I resealed mine after it dried out for 2 months using epoxy. Smoothed and faired and repainted. Looked and performs as new now. Happy boat work and fair winds after you splash!
Take out the cutlass bearing
This should give enough side to side movement to slide the shaft past the rudder. This is what had to be done on my 37. Also the new shaft went in the same way.
This should give enough side to side movement to slide the shaft past the rudder. This is what had to be done on my 37. Also the new shaft went in the same way.
Remove cutlass bearing before shaft?
How did you get the cutlass bearing out without removing the shaft? Did you have a special tool or were you lucky enough to have the bearing come out easily? I wonder why Hunter doesn't offset their shafts like some other manufacturers?
How did you get the cutlass bearing out without removing the shaft? Did you have a special tool or were you lucky enough to have the bearing come out easily? I wonder why Hunter doesn't offset their shafts like some other manufacturers?
Steve, boat yards have them.
Saves having to pull the shaft. That reduces cost of course. Or you can make your own by cutting a piece of pipe lenght wise and using it as a slide hammer. There's other ways I've heard about too. Or just take off the strut.
Saves having to pull the shaft. That reduces cost of course. Or you can make your own by cutting a piece of pipe lenght wise and using it as a slide hammer. There's other ways I've heard about too. Or just take off the strut.
rudder quadrant
I dropped my rudder last fall, mine is a 91' 28. I did as Dave said, wd40 at the bolt heads and the part of the quadrant that they screw into. They should loosen up, and the center bolt is for rudder suport. I dug out the ground below the rudder, about 18" or so and was able to drop it out. As for the prop shaft the information supplied from Hunter says my shaft is stainless, even though it looks like bronze until I cleaned it up to put on the zinc.
I dropped my rudder last fall, mine is a 91' 28. I did as Dave said, wd40 at the bolt heads and the part of the quadrant that they screw into. They should loosen up, and the center bolt is for rudder suport. I dug out the ground below the rudder, about 18" or so and was able to drop it out. As for the prop shaft the information supplied from Hunter says my shaft is stainless, even though it looks like bronze until I cleaned it up to put on the zinc.
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