Hello Again. This time I am looking for help in identifying and adjusting the subject item. My Cat. 27 with the Atomic 4 late model engine has a rubber boot that looks like an auto (straight) radiator hose with a hose clamp on each end, just prior to where the shaft goes thru the hull. Do I just tighten up the hose clamps with a screwdriver? It seems too easy. I know not to tighten "whatever" too much. The gland leaks too much, and quickly can fill the bilge with the engine operating. Please help, as usual. Fair WX and good winds. Jim Huhta
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Stuffing Box
Jim What you are describing is the hose that leads the prop shaft back through the stern tube (the hole in the boat). That black hose should have four hose clamps on it, two aft and two forward. It's not leaking, the stuffing box is. The description of how to adjust the stuffing box is in the link below. You should also do an Archive Search on stuffing box, and you'll find hundreds of posts. Good luck, Stu PS Since I wrote that article, a newer dripless material has come on the market, it's Gore tex by e-marine, you should be able to find it through the archive search.
Jim What you are describing is the hose that leads the prop shaft back through the stern tube (the hole in the boat). That black hose should have four hose clamps on it, two aft and two forward. It's not leaking, the stuffing box is. The description of how to adjust the stuffing box is in the link below. You should also do an Archive Search on stuffing box, and you'll find hundreds of posts. Good luck, Stu PS Since I wrote that article, a newer dripless material has come on the market, it's Gore tex by e-marine, you should be able to find it through the archive search.
A pictures is...
worth a thousand words... Let me add to Stu's information,as it is how I learn to adjust mine. Took this picture when I did it...see attached The #1 nut, is the one where the actual stuffing material is inserted into...(See Stu's link) and the #2 nut is the locking nut that you use to secure the assembly once your satisfied with the dripping rate. WM sells special adjustable wrenches to work on this (10-12$) although you can do this without these. Cheers, Ghislain
worth a thousand words... Let me add to Stu's information,as it is how I learn to adjust mine. Took this picture when I did it...see attached The #1 nut, is the one where the actual stuffing material is inserted into...(See Stu's link) and the #2 nut is the locking nut that you use to secure the assembly once your satisfied with the dripping rate. WM sells special adjustable wrenches to work on this (10-12$) although you can do this without these. Cheers, Ghislain
To Ghislan Gaumond of Toronto:
Thanx for the info, men. But Ghislan, I did not get the picture. Can you re-transmit please? Regards Jim
Thanx for the info, men. But Ghislan, I did not get the picture. Can you re-transmit please? Regards Jim
Link
Try this link out so that you can visualize exactly what's going on. http://catalog.com/bobpone/diyPackingGland.htm
Try this link out so that you can visualize exactly what's going on. http://catalog.com/bobpone/diyPackingGland.htm
Water Entry on Stuffing Box Service in Water
Great link, good pictures, thanks. The related link states: "It is preferable to replace the packing material when your vessel is out of the water, but if you can no longer control the leakage and don't want to haul your boat out, you can stop the water from entering by putting Play-Doh or putty into some kitchen plastic wrap and rolling it into a cigar shape. Dive under the boat and jam the plastic plug around the shaft, forcing it up the shaft tube. This will slow the leakage while you replace the packing. Don't forget to remove the plastic plug, without water for lubrication the new packing material will burn up." You don't have to do that. The water is only coming in around the shaft, like 3/16 of an inch around the cricumference of the 1 inch shaft. Either let it come in, it's not very much and your bilge pump will have no trouble handling it, or just tie or duct tape a plastic bag around the stern tube INSIDE the boat, aft of the stuffing box ahead of the stern tube. Way easier. Not a problem to do in the water. You can also check the archives, been discussed before. Stu
Great link, good pictures, thanks. The related link states: "It is preferable to replace the packing material when your vessel is out of the water, but if you can no longer control the leakage and don't want to haul your boat out, you can stop the water from entering by putting Play-Doh or putty into some kitchen plastic wrap and rolling it into a cigar shape. Dive under the boat and jam the plastic plug around the shaft, forcing it up the shaft tube. This will slow the leakage while you replace the packing. Don't forget to remove the plastic plug, without water for lubrication the new packing material will burn up." You don't have to do that. The water is only coming in around the shaft, like 3/16 of an inch around the cricumference of the 1 inch shaft. Either let it come in, it's not very much and your bilge pump will have no trouble handling it, or just tie or duct tape a plastic bag around the stern tube INSIDE the boat, aft of the stuffing box ahead of the stern tube. Way easier. Not a problem to do in the water. You can also check the archives, been discussed before. Stu
Water Entry
I agree you can change the packing while in the water and without having to dive and plug up anything. Very little water comes in. I used a drywall screw to get the old packing out. Screw it in a few threads and then pull it out (you might need pliers). If you start to worry and feel like you need a break just tighten up the packing nut by hand (no need to tighten lock nut) and take a 5 min break (although, you could probably change the packing in under 5)min.
I agree you can change the packing while in the water and without having to dive and plug up anything. Very little water comes in. I used a drywall screw to get the old packing out. Screw it in a few threads and then pull it out (you might need pliers). If you start to worry and feel like you need a break just tighten up the packing nut by hand (no need to tighten lock nut) and take a 5 min break (although, you could probably change the packing in under 5)min.
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