Overview of Easy Mainsail Reefing Methods (long)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jun 5, 1997
659
Coleman scanoe Irwin (ID)
The recent discussions on mainsail furling systems create the impression that reefing the mainsail when the wind pipes up is difficult, heavy work that many of us are a little intimidated by. The worst scenario is where the vessel is brought almost completely head to wind in order to take the pressure of the mainsail. This will cause apparent wind speed to increase sharply, main and jib to flap wildly and loudly, boatspeed to drop to zero, the helm to respond no longer and the vessel to flop around in the waves. By now, every passenger and novice crew member on board is starting to get scared...... Therefore, next time the skipper decides to furl the jib first (so it can't flap itself to pieces) and to start the Yanmar. Now there is less pandemonium and some boatspeed is maintained and, thus, helm control. Then he reefs the sail, falls off, sets the jib again and stops the engine. However, this is a fair amount of work and requires getting the off-watch on deck to man the helm, unless he has a really good autopilot or windvane. Also, turning directly into wind and waves immediately increases the apparent windspeed in the cockpit and may be accompanied by fairly strong pitching and slamming. There must be an easier way, right? Sure, and buying a furling main can be one of these ways. However, it is by no means the only way to reefing heaven (plus you've got to be rich, which, according to The Book makes your chances of arriving there pretty slim to start with......). So, here are my favorite reefing techniques: (1) Reefing while "HOVE TO" (wonderful if you are singlehanding or things got a bit out of control or you want to reassure the passengers or it was getting time for lunch anyhow). Just heave to on jib and rudder and release mainsheet till nearly all of the pressure is off the mainsail. Then reef at your leisure. Meanwhile, peace and serenity (or perhaps sanity) have returned on board; passengers who were getting a bit scared are recovering their wits and you are being toasted as an accomplished old salt. But don't you need to tack through the wind in order to heave to? No, all you have to do is to come up to a broad reach, winch the clew of the jib (or, preferably, the staysail) to windward, release the mainsheet (and/or the traveler) and -- as the boat loses speed and the bow starts to blow off - fully counter the rudder. It's THAT simple; no sails to furl, no engine to start, no extra hands on deck. Then, when you are ready to go again, just pull in the mainsheet to gather some speed, slowly release the rudder so you don't tack and let the clew of the jib slip back to leeward. (2) Reefing while CLOSE-HAULED (great if conditions allow you to be really close-hauled, e.g. when already pinching and/or motorsailing). Steer as close to the wind as you can without losing too much speed while sheeting the jib (or, better, the staysail) in tightly and, if necessary, using the engine (i.e. motorsailing). Then just let go of the mainsheet (and traveler) till you see the main starting to luff (basically, you are bringing only the mainsail and the boom head to wind, without the jib and the rest of the boat having to follow suit). Then reef, pull the mainsheet back in and resume sailing. This method requires a competent helmsman, autopilot or windvane but allows you to keep making headway during the reefing procedure. (3) Reefing while PINCHING (this time-honored approach is usually the best method if "reefer" and helmsman make a good team). Come up to a broad reach only (to maintain good boat speed) while sheeting the jib in too tight (i.e. for close-hauled sailing) and the main too loose (i.e. for a beam reach). When the 'reefer' is ready to ease the main halyard the helmsman heads up sharply till the main starts to luff and reefing can start. The helmsman has to watch out for two things: (a) not to tack; and (b) not too lose too much speed (and thus helm control). If either problem occurs before the helmsman was able to bear off again the engine will generally need to be started to regain control of the bow. If reefing is not yet completed (e.g. reef line and/or main halyard still need to be tightened further) a second, or even a third pinch may be needed. (4) Reefing while RUNNING OFF (this is often the preferred method for smaller vessels with low friction running rigging or for medium-sized vessels with super-duper batcars and is likely to be your fallback method on most any vessel if you are suddenly overpowered by a violent gust). If you have high friction running rigging and mast slides, particularly with a large, fully battened mainsail, you will generally find it difficult or impossible to reef while running unless you more or less center the boom. If you are able to run DDW (dead down wind; e.g. with wing-on-wing jib and staysail) you can fully center the boom with double preventers (the mainsheet needs to remain loose enough to prevent the boom from being pulled down too far; unless you can use the topping lift to keep the boom up). If you are not DDW you can try to center the boom relative to the wind, rather than to the vessel, in order to take most of the pressure off the main. While reefing you should try to release the main halyard bit by bit while taking up on the reefline, thereby preventing the wind from getting hold of a large slab of loose mainsail. It may be advisable to keep boatspeed up (and thus apparent wind speed down) with the help of jib and/or engine. The helmsperson needs to watch out keenly for broaches, particularly as long as the main is centered and not yet reduced to the proper size for the conditions you are in. Hope this is of some use to newby sailors in this forum. Flying Dutchman
 
E

Ed Schenck

Thanks.

This is very helpful. Should test it this, the final weekend of 1999. Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
W

Winni Johnston

Now That My Hearbeat is Back to Normal...

My husband and I entered our first race last weekend, and everything in your first paragragh describes our start. We had to reef, and not having your wisdom last weekend, did it the hard way. Did I mention my eyeballs nearly popped out as I hung on for dear life? After we got everything under control, we had a great time followed with gales of laughter. We had the Best time to beat, and nobody passed us. Oh, did I mention we came in dead last? Thanks for sharing your experience. There are a few posts I print out, and this is definitely one of them. I can hear my husband now, "time to practice reefing honey" Winni s/v Island Hops H34
 
D

Dan Ulrich

Pre Blow

I might add the easiest way to reef is "Before you have to"!
 
P

Pete Burger

Reefing

Flying Dutchman, a lot of us, not merely the newcomers owe you!! The Hove to method you describe is something completely new, at least to me. I've always done the first thing you mentioned, and as you say, it's really a pain in the "you know where". Anxious to try your method. Thanks. Pete Burger KAILANI
 
W

Wynn Ferrel

Another great sailing lesson

Man, I love this site. Thanks for another great sailing lesson. I appreciate you sharing your experience and your wisdom with us so freely. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
 
J

James Marohn

Heave to while on Broad Reach?

Yep, I'm a newbie sailor! And I have a newbie question to this awesome article before I run out this weekend to practice some of these techniques!!! I am still still trying to grasp the concept of "Hove to". I've read Chapman's and several other books on this technique and all I get is that it's something I should learn and practice. As I read your article, I try to visualize what sort of position I would be step by step. (please correct me where I'm wrong...I am desperate to learn this skill :) 1) Coming to a Broad Reach (Starboard side in this example). The apparent wind is coming in at around 110 degrees from the bow of the boat, blowing strong (afterall that is why I'm trying to heave to). The boat is running, jib is trimmed onto port side and the boom is out port side as well. 2) Winch the clew of the jib to Starboard. The jib is still filled with running wind. 3) Here's where I'm a bit confused. Release the mainsheet. The boom swings further outward...almost like you're running wing-to-wing, except the wind is still coming at 110, and therefore the jib is filled in the opposite way. While in this position, wouldn't the main sail be full of strong wind air, filling from the stern? James "obviously missing something" Marohn Perelandra - Hunter Vision 32 PS How effective would heaving to be on a stayless boat such as the Vision 32? The jib is so small compared to the enormour main sail...will it actually be effective in bringing the boat to a Hove to position?
 
Jun 5, 1997
659
Coleman scanoe Irwin (ID)
Read: "close reach", not "broad reach" :-(sorry)

Thanks James; you're absolutely right! Both times that I wrote "broad reach" I really meant to write "close reach". I wrote this post during the graveyard shift. Sailing terminology has never been my strongest suit, anyhow (too much mixing up of English and Dutch sailing terms going on in my head). Glad that you caught my error before too many readers might be discovering it the hard way. :-( Also, the "heave to" shortcut I described can be quite confusing and should have been explained better (especially with Phil giving my well meant bits of advice more attention than they deserve). First of all, by all means use the standard heaving-to methods that the textbooks describe, i.e. by tacking without releasing the jib, etc. This will work well. However, sometimes the wind and waves make even tacking less than trivial. Morover, after breaking the heave-to configuration you will generally have to tack again (or jibe) to continue on your original course. Therefore, the shortcut method lets you heave to on the same tack you are on by backwinding the jib forcefully (viz. by winching the clew to the weather side). This may be the right place to say a little bit more about heaving-to and finkeelers. Some sailors maintain that finkeelers cannot be hove-to well. My own experience with a Hunter Legend 33.5 and a Legend 43 is that these Hunters actually heave-to quite well. However, it helps to have some basic understanding of the balancing forces involved. The conventional hove-to state is a fascinating battle between jib and rudder. If either one wins, the hove-to state will be broken. Since the rudder gets more powerful when the boat speeds up, you will need to make sure that the mainsheet is well released or the rudder may win all the time (i.e. the vessel tacks) since most of the forward drive comes from the main. On the other hand, if the jib tends to win (i.e. the vessel wants to run off and/or jibe) the jib should either be furled partially, or replaced with a smaller headsail, or the rudder could be powered up more by letting the main draw a little again. If anyone is interested in more detailed discussions of the mechanics involved in heaving-to you may want to search for this topic in the archives of the rec.boats.cruising newsgroup (e.g using the deja.com archives and the Power Search function). Finally, there are any number of sailing texbooks where you can find more detailed and carefully worded descriptions of reefing procedures. The only reason that I thought it worthwhile to record my own preferences is that the Hunters I am familiar with do have single-line reefing systems that let you reef from the cockpit (at least most of the time). Therefore, one can start to play with reefing methods that require the boom to be sheeted pretty far outboard, viz. in order to bring the boom into the wind rather than the entire vessel. With classical reefing systems which often require you to go forward, the boom pretty much needs to remain centered for reasons of safety and accessibility. Therefore, many textbooks appear to have been a little slow in adapting their time-honored, but sometimes cumbersome reefing techniques to this new environment. Flying Dutchman "Rivendel II"
 
Jun 5, 1997
659
Coleman scanoe Irwin (ID)
Heaving to on a small jib (e.g. Vision 32)

James, I just noticed that I missed your last question. Here is a short response (for a more detailed discussion see the above referenced rec.boats.cruising archives on deja.com). The jib/main size ratio is relatively unimportant in a conventional (jib vs. rudder) heave to situation. In fact, when the wind is very strong many sailors prefer to furl the main entirely when heaving to. Thus, the real question is whether jib and rudder balance each other. The stronger the wind, the smaller the jib can be. Have fun! Flying Dutchman
 
J

James Marohn

Two lessons in one! Thanks!

Thank you for explaining the mechanics of the hove-to state! Not to mention the reefing techniques as well. As a newbie sailor, I'm very anxious to practice these skills this weekend! Thanks! James and Tina Marohn Perelandra - Vision 32
 
J

Jay Hill

More on reefing on Hunters (Setup instructions)

Just wanted to add a note to support the Dutchman's excellent comments. The jib/rudder balance is the key, but as you are aware, rolling up a furling jib in high winds while trying to heave-to for the purpose of reefing the main is not only difficult, it consumes more crew and time to perform a function you were trying to do without losing time! The same applies to hanked jibs; if you have a 130 up (for example) it makes little sense to change the foresail for heaving to for the purpose of reefing the main. So, yes, you can winch the jib to weather, but remember, nobody said you have to winch the jib ALL THE WAY to weather. If you've winched the jib to weather and the jib seems to be winning the jib/rudder balance contest, ease the jib (keeping it backed of course) a mere inch or two. This will dump a little more wind over the jib and give the edge to the rudder. Remember also that in heave-to, only a perfectly balanced boat will settle without any heading change at all. A boat may APPEAR to be heading toward tack or jibe, but it might not; just let it settle for a few seconds before making any changes to the setup. I also agree with the Dutchman about Hunter reefing systems; they arenet bad. I've made a couple changes in my 1985, 31SF arrangment which most would consider totally ridiculous, but I do a lot of single-handing and I love the weather most would label as "horrible". Here's how you can make some changes to reef the main without leaving the cockpit. Requirements: Halyards and their winches must be accessible from the cockpit. If your halyard winches are on the mast (I don't remember if any Hunter models are configured this way) then you have a lot more work to do than the suggestion below. OK, here's how you rig it. If your mainsail has cringles (a grommet sewn/pressed into the sail that allows a line to be led THROUGH the sail) run a jiffy reef line by tying the bitter end to an appropriate point on the end of the boom. Run the line through the reef clew, back down to the boom through a cheek block which you have mounted on the boom, forward to another cheek block mounted on the same side of the boom, up through the reef tack, down to the mast step where you have mounted a swivel block, then to the cockpit through a rope clutch (if preferred) on the same side of the vessel as the main halyard. This line allows you to physically pull the sail down while easing out the main halyard at the same station. This works well, even in high winds where you ease the mainsheet just to get a little bit larger bubble in the front of the mainsail, if you have lubricated your sail slugs and track. When the reef line is secured, rewinch the main halyard. This operation can be performed by a single crewmember without heaving-to, changing course, or starting that noisy motor. Knowing that you are going to ease the mainsheet a bit and your course will change very little (on larger Hunters), lock the wheel or tiller and perform the procedure yourself. You should be back at the helm in less than a minute in winds up to about 25 knots. Of course, if its 25 knots and your just now reefing, your probably in a race or you weren't watching the horizon for weather. For those without cringles in the mainsail but rather have D-rings sewn onto the reef tack and clew, here's how you can make the same system work. It's a bit, uh, unsightly, but it works. Tie the bitter end of the reef line to the clew reef d-ring and run it down through a cheek block on the boom, forward through another cheek block on the same side of the boom, up through an ALL PLASTIC swivel block installed on the tack reef d-ring, back down to the mast step through another swivel block and to the cockpit through a rope clutch. The block insures the line travels better than directly through a d-ring and the all plastic (get the strongest made) protects the sails from chafe. The beauty of this system is it works identically on single and double reefed mainsails, just more hardware. For a double-reefed main, the cheek block on the forward end of the boom is a double so both single and double reef lines travel through the same block. On my Hunter, all mainsail controls are at the same station in the cockpit: Main Halyard, Outhaul, Single Reef, Double Reef. The Mainsheet is on a fiddle block instead of the standard winch method and is only two feet away from the reef station. The station on the port side controls the foredeck: Jib Halyard, Spinnaker Halyard, Topping Lift, Foreguy all of which use their own rope clutch and share a single winch at a station. Sorry for the detail, but I thought it might help. In case you're wondering, the cost of completely rigging a double-reefed main (d-ring style) is less than $250 not counting the rope clutches and is well worth it to be able to single hand in weather up to about 40 knots. Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong. Jay
 
Jun 5, 1997
659
Coleman scanoe Irwin (ID)
Jay knows the way!

Jay, I love your advice to fine-tune the jib vs. rudder balance (while heaving to) by controlling the position of the jib clew! That should work very well indeed and is easy to do from the safety and comfort of the cockpit. Also, I would like to rectify any impression I may have made that reefing while hove-to is our preferred method under normal circumstances. I only listed it first because it is often ignored as an option. Under most conditions we use either the second or third of the four methods listed, depending on sea state and crew availability. The common denominator of all these methods is, however: don't bring the entire vessel head to wind; just the boom! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Flying Dutchman
 
B

Bob E.

Continuous line reefing

This has been a fascinating and educational discussion. My 2 cents is an elaboration on the conversion to continuous line reefing, written by Jay Hill. My boat, a H30G, has double reefing lines internal to the boom. The aft end of the boom has sheaves where the reefing lines enter. Since I single-hand a lot, I wanted to convert to a single-line reefing arrangement while keeping the lines internal. (Internal is neater and minimizes sharp head-bangers on the boom.) The method is basically similar to Jay's, except that the internal lines must emerge from the front of the boom pointing downward, due to the arrangement of sheaves there. So to make this work, I had to put two cheek blocks on the mast, one on each side, about half way between the gooseneck and the base, to turn the lines upward (180 degrees)toward the luff D-rings. My sail has cringles through the leech and D-rings at the luff. I was able to save some money by using the old second reefing line (longer of the two) for the new first reef. I only had to buy one 75 foot 3/8" line for the new second reef, and two cheek blocks. Now, it is a snap to reef the main, as described by Jay. The only problem (minor) is that there is a *lot* of line to coil when that second reef is in! Also, when the mail is furled, there is a lot of line to deal with. If you pull both reefs all the way through, you can coil the line in the cockpit, but that can make raising the main harder (have to pull all that line back through a high-friction system as the main gos up). Better to just snuggle the extra up under the sail cover.
 
B

Bill Welsch

240 Foresail Reefing Question

When reefing our furling forsail especially in breezes over 15, there is a "bend" in the forestay. I tightened the turnbuckle under the furling drum but still am not completely satisfied. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks Bill Welsch S/V Renewal
 
J

Jay Hill

Single Line Reefing

Hey Bob, Loved your input and I agree entirely; lots of line to deal with. When the sail is flaked over the boom, I use the extra line for sail ties and with the reef lines running on the outside of the boom it gives a place to tie the line after wrapping around the sails. (I always drop sail ties, and I couldn't make the in-boom reefing system work the exact way I wanted; it required some modification of the boom I wasn't willing to do/pay for.) When it's time to hoist, I can reach up and untie the reef line/sail tie from the cockpit and I don't have any sail ties flying around. Then again, if I'd get my act together and put up my Lazy-Jays, I wouldn't have to worry about that either. Regards, Jay
 
Status
Not open for further replies.