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R
Rod
winterizing
I don't winterize mine. I just store it in the basement over the winter and then change the lower unit fluid in the spring.
I don't winterize mine. I just store it in the basement over the winter and then change the lower unit fluid in the spring.
B
Bob B.
Winterizing
Vince: Change the lower leg oil at the end of the sailing season. If there is any water in the oil, best to change it sooner rather than later. Also gives you time to repair during the winter Regards, Bob B.
Vince: Change the lower leg oil at the end of the sailing season. If there is any water in the oil, best to change it sooner rather than later. Also gives you time to repair during the winter Regards, Bob B.
YES IS THE CORRECT ANSWER
The idea behind fogging the motor is to clear the gas film from the carb and coat the insides to protect the motor when storing for a long period. The gas can dry and form a laquer type coating in the carb, thats a bad thing. Fogging is to prevent that from happening. That would be the offical answer. Then there is real life. Most do, some don't.
The idea behind fogging the motor is to clear the gas film from the carb and coat the insides to protect the motor when storing for a long period. The gas can dry and form a laquer type coating in the carb, thats a bad thing. Fogging is to prevent that from happening. That would be the offical answer. Then there is real life. Most do, some don't.
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Bill
Fogging
Fogging is when you spray a winterizing spray(CRC) into the carbs with the gas supply cut off while the motor is running until the gas runs out and the motor dies. Then you pull the spark plugs, spray the fog into the cylinders crank the motor and reinstall the plugs. TaDa fogged.
Fogging is when you spray a winterizing spray(CRC) into the carbs with the gas supply cut off while the motor is running until the gas runs out and the motor dies. Then you pull the spark plugs, spray the fog into the cylinders crank the motor and reinstall the plugs. TaDa fogged.
Drain the Carb
Vince: The most important thing to do, by far, is to drain the carburetor. The gas will almost certainly dry out and gum it up. The carburetor has tiny passages that the gas must flow through. When the gas dries out over the winter and turns to powder, it really does bad things to the carb. Even if you use an additive in the gas, like Stabil, and I do so that I can keep the gas over the winter and use it next season, you should still drain the carburetor, in my opinion. There is usually a little screw with a washer gasket on it on the float bowl on the bottom of the carb to drain it. After I do that, I usually stuff a paper towel into the intake of the carb so that spiders don't make a home there. I also change the gearbox oil, either in the fall, or next spring. It's recommended to do it in the fall, then the water in the oil doesn't have all winter to do bad things to the gears and bushings. I don't fog my motor even though I do have a can of fogging oil. I figure with all the oil in the gas, there is plenty of oil coating the inside of the cylinders. (My outboards are currently 2 strokes). I have used my Johnson 6 HP motor for 24 years, and only needed to have it worked on professionally once, when it needed the plastic float in the carb. replaced. (If you have a 4 stroke motor, my comment about not fogging the cylinders may not be applicable). For our 2 HP dinghy motor, I just drain the carb and the fuel tank. Fogging a motor won't do the carb any good. The fogging oil may only gum-up the inside of the carb, and won't help the float bowl at all, which is really the problem area that needs to be addressed. I always run the motors in a double drywall bucket, (one nested inside a second one, with the bottom cut out of the top one to make it very deep). They are very clean. I put a little dish detergent in the water, and keep replacing the water with a hose as it is splashed out of the buckets. This flushes out any salt that may be in the motor. I run them for about 5 minutes, disconnecting the fuel hose so that it drains the fuel out of the hose. I also run the motors in the spring in this bucket to minimize the chance of being embarrassed by not being able to get my motor started at the marina ramp. Really those little outboards are very reliable considering the minimal amount of care that they need and the amount of work can do. I have already started mine and run it wide open for hours on a day with no wind, motoring the boat for more than 30 miles at one stretch. Aldo
Vince: The most important thing to do, by far, is to drain the carburetor. The gas will almost certainly dry out and gum it up. The carburetor has tiny passages that the gas must flow through. When the gas dries out over the winter and turns to powder, it really does bad things to the carb. Even if you use an additive in the gas, like Stabil, and I do so that I can keep the gas over the winter and use it next season, you should still drain the carburetor, in my opinion. There is usually a little screw with a washer gasket on it on the float bowl on the bottom of the carb to drain it. After I do that, I usually stuff a paper towel into the intake of the carb so that spiders don't make a home there. I also change the gearbox oil, either in the fall, or next spring. It's recommended to do it in the fall, then the water in the oil doesn't have all winter to do bad things to the gears and bushings. I don't fog my motor even though I do have a can of fogging oil. I figure with all the oil in the gas, there is plenty of oil coating the inside of the cylinders. (My outboards are currently 2 strokes). I have used my Johnson 6 HP motor for 24 years, and only needed to have it worked on professionally once, when it needed the plastic float in the carb. replaced. (If you have a 4 stroke motor, my comment about not fogging the cylinders may not be applicable). For our 2 HP dinghy motor, I just drain the carb and the fuel tank. Fogging a motor won't do the carb any good. The fogging oil may only gum-up the inside of the carb, and won't help the float bowl at all, which is really the problem area that needs to be addressed. I always run the motors in a double drywall bucket, (one nested inside a second one, with the bottom cut out of the top one to make it very deep). They are very clean. I put a little dish detergent in the water, and keep replacing the water with a hose as it is splashed out of the buckets. This flushes out any salt that may be in the motor. I run them for about 5 minutes, disconnecting the fuel hose so that it drains the fuel out of the hose. I also run the motors in the spring in this bucket to minimize the chance of being embarrassed by not being able to get my motor started at the marina ramp. Really those little outboards are very reliable considering the minimal amount of care that they need and the amount of work can do. I have already started mine and run it wide open for hours on a day with no wind, motoring the boat for more than 30 miles at one stretch. Aldo
B
Bob B.
B
Bob B.
I clean my plugs
with a wire brush. In the good old days we used to take them to the local garage & they used a spark plug sandblasting cabinet for this purpose. They could test the plug for misfiring on the same machine. This may have done some damage to the plug but they sure came out clean. To remove the spark plug wire, pull & rotate slightly the boot on the wire, not on the wire. When replacing the plugs, do not overtighten. The plugs from a 4 stroke will be dry, & gentley brushing the electrodes will remove any carbon build up. Push the wire bristles straight up in beside the center electrode porcelain & rotate the plug back & forth a bit too. Could use a knife blade to scrape off some parts too. Tap the plug on the bench & some carbon particles will fall out. Reset the electrode gap if necessary. Could blow the plug off or swish around in varsol to remove any particles. Plugs from a 2 stroke will probably be oily but the procedure is the same. If the plugs are burned at all, showing rounded off electrodes, buy new plugs. Be sure to buy the marine grade as they do work better. Some folks will not agree with cleaning plugs but will buy new every season. My OB is used for about 6 hours per season so I clean them. Keep on pluggin, Bob B.
with a wire brush. In the good old days we used to take them to the local garage & they used a spark plug sandblasting cabinet for this purpose. They could test the plug for misfiring on the same machine. This may have done some damage to the plug but they sure came out clean. To remove the spark plug wire, pull & rotate slightly the boot on the wire, not on the wire. When replacing the plugs, do not overtighten. The plugs from a 4 stroke will be dry, & gentley brushing the electrodes will remove any carbon build up. Push the wire bristles straight up in beside the center electrode porcelain & rotate the plug back & forth a bit too. Could use a knife blade to scrape off some parts too. Tap the plug on the bench & some carbon particles will fall out. Reset the electrode gap if necessary. Could blow the plug off or swish around in varsol to remove any particles. Plugs from a 2 stroke will probably be oily but the procedure is the same. If the plugs are burned at all, showing rounded off electrodes, buy new plugs. Be sure to buy the marine grade as they do work better. Some folks will not agree with cleaning plugs but will buy new every season. My OB is used for about 6 hours per season so I clean them. Keep on pluggin, Bob B.
Winterizing an outboard
I have had my local Honda dealer winterize my engine since new. I use a 5HP 4-stroke Honda on my Capri and used the same engine on my former ComPac SunCat. I am not mechanically inclined and feel it is worth the money to have them check it out every Fall. They change the plug, drain and refill the lower unit and check the water pump , all gaskets and bolts. For me, it's cheap insurance.
I have had my local Honda dealer winterize my engine since new. I use a 5HP 4-stroke Honda on my Capri and used the same engine on my former ComPac SunCat. I am not mechanically inclined and feel it is worth the money to have them check it out every Fall. They change the plug, drain and refill the lower unit and check the water pump , all gaskets and bolts. For me, it's cheap insurance.
B
Bob B.
Russ
I'm not familiar with a Honda 4 stroke. To check the water pump on my Evinrude, it would have to be taken apart. That would be overkill as the water pump will last longer than me as long as it is not run dry! Regards, Bob B.
I'm not familiar with a Honda 4 stroke. To check the water pump on my Evinrude, it would have to be taken apart. That would be overkill as the water pump will last longer than me as long as it is not run dry! Regards, Bob B.
Outboard winterization
I lost a 6HP Yamaha to overheating and seizure of moving parts several years ago. Cause....a worn out impeller in the water pump. This was on a engine which was run about 20 hours a year. The wear was helped along by sand and mud in the lake water in Lake St Clair in Michigan. My current lake is worse in hat regard. I don't want to fry another engine, therefor, have the pump checked every year.
I lost a 6HP Yamaha to overheating and seizure of moving parts several years ago. Cause....a worn out impeller in the water pump. This was on a engine which was run about 20 hours a year. The wear was helped along by sand and mud in the lake water in Lake St Clair in Michigan. My current lake is worse in hat regard. I don't want to fry another engine, therefor, have the pump checked every year.
Winterization
As far as winterization is concerned, if you do what the owner's manual says, you will be okay. As for burning up the engine, as soon as it starts, the first thing you should check is to see if it is discharging water out the back. If so, the impeller and water pump are working and cooling the engine.
As far as winterization is concerned, if you do what the owner's manual says, you will be okay. As for burning up the engine, as soon as it starts, the first thing you should check is to see if it is discharging water out the back. If so, the impeller and water pump are working and cooling the engine.
Winterizing
I learned the hard way! I have a Honda 9.9 four stroke XL shaft. Last fall I drained the carb, but didn't fog it. This year about half way throught the season my motor started to cough and choke. I took it to the local dealer to have it looked at and after describing the problem he knew it was the carb. He attempted to clean It but with no sucess. I bought a new carb for $94.00 and the motor ran fine. the proper way to stor for the winter shoul be to run a gas stabilizer through the carb, then spray fogging oil in to the carb as it is running untill it chokes out. Then remove the plugs and spray into the cylinders and reinstall the plugs. You should also change the oil in the lower unit in the fall before you store it.
I learned the hard way! I have a Honda 9.9 four stroke XL shaft. Last fall I drained the carb, but didn't fog it. This year about half way throught the season my motor started to cough and choke. I took it to the local dealer to have it looked at and after describing the problem he knew it was the carb. He attempted to clean It but with no sucess. I bought a new carb for $94.00 and the motor ran fine. the proper way to stor for the winter shoul be to run a gas stabilizer through the carb, then spray fogging oil in to the carb as it is running untill it chokes out. Then remove the plugs and spray into the cylinders and reinstall the plugs. You should also change the oil in the lower unit in the fall before you store it.
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