Outboard Mounts

[Stu Timm]

Greetings!Well, I guess by now we are all high and dry, at least in the chilly northeast. I finished my first summer with my 1979 22 O'Day centerboard sloop and had a great one, weather not-withstanding! The boat came with a delapidated outboard bracket with a broken spring that was attached to a fiberglass fairing (block really) that was through bolted to the hull. The fiberglass block gave the bracket a nearly vertical mounting surface due to the reverse counter on the 22's transom. When I removed the outboard bracket to replace it, the fiberglass fairing block came off also. It was filled with (wet) plywood blocking pieces set in resin. The resin cracked off in my hands and was not in good shape.Since I plan to replace the outboard bracket in any instance, I saw a bracket (Gareleck - Aux. Motor Bracket #17039) that can adapt to the O'Day's reverse transom WITHOUT the need of using the fiberglass block. I doubt if the bolt holes for the old mount will match the bolt holes for the new one. My question is should I keep the fiberglass block that O'Day put on the boat in the first place, or try something new? Has anyone else ever did something like this? Your kind advice is greatly appreciated.Regards,Stu Timm22' O'Day

 

[Justin - O'day Owners' Web]

I see no reason for the block but . . .

make sure that the travel on the new mount is sufficient. It seems to me that tilting the mount to fit the reverse transom will reduce the effective travel. Make sure that I'm either wrong, or that it won't matter. I installed a new mount on my boat this spring and had a hell of a time with it because the prop was too near the surface of the water to get a decent bite.Also, regardless of which mount you use, make sure you back it really well. There is a Catalina in the yard I use with transom damage from catching the engine on a mooring.Good luck,Justin - O'day Owners' Web

 

[R.W.Landau]

How about some wood?

Stu,Most of the motor brackets are made to be mounted to a vertical surface. I suppose that you could mount directly the hull, if you outboard has enough pin to bring the motor back to vertical.How about a new block made from wood or two wedges one under either side.I would suggest a solid block. There are many options to the type of wood in case you cannot find a given species. You could use Teak (approx. $20.00 per board foot and blocks are hard to find), cypress, mahogany, white oak (red oak rots quickly!! that's why wine barrels are made from white oak),and even Douglas fir ( might be abit soft for this application.)I am not sure of this, but, I believe that the wedge shaped O'Day block was about 4" at the bottom. I would think that if you could narrow that to 2" it may help with the clearance that the prop has with the rudder.Just some Ideas.r.w.landau

 

[Pat Shanklin]

Rebuild the Original

Hi Stu, I've done quite a bit of boat repair and restoration both wood and glass. When it comes to glass parts I would usually repair the old if at all possible. I have a 22 also and know the mount you're talking about but have never seen one removed. From your discription I guess it is hollow with plywood to strengthen. Whenever I ran into something like this I would study the parts and make some measurements and sketches befor removing the bad wood then try to remove the wood carefully to possibly use as a pattern. R.Ws recomendation of wood species is right on the money. With simple tools, even a circular or hand saw you could cut individual wedges to fit the space from white oak or redwood 3/4inch planks. Stack them together and glue with epoxy or polyester. An old car battery as weight would be enough pressure while curing. Clean up the mount and epoxy in place. If the fit is not real tight bed the block in the resin with glass filler. I use any woven or mat glass cut into 1/2 inch squares then well stirred into the resin to thicken. You can also use this to fill the old bolt holes but cut much finer 1/4 inch or less pieces. To do any faring I would use a belt sander or my favorite an angle grinder (with much caution). Sounds like an enteresting project hope I've been of some help feel free to e-mail with any further questions...pshanklin@aol.com

 

[Pat Shanklin]

I might be wrong...

I just looked up some Garelick motor mounts and read that they are adjustable as you mentioned. Concidering all that work I was rambling on about to rebuild your Oday glass mount, maybe trying to mount direct to the transome is the way to go. Depends on if you are a puriist or not. Have fun crawling up in that lazzerett...Pat