I just purchased a 1980 O'Day 19, and want to mount a 5-6 HP 4-stroke outboard. It came with the lightest duty Garelick outboard bracket mounted on a small transom adaptor. The boat was used in salt water, in Florida, and then towed to North Idaho, where it has been in storage ever since. As a result, the outboard bracket is badly corroded, and falling apart. Due to the corrosion of the outboard bracket, I would like to check the integrity of the mounts for the transom adaptor for salt corrosion and/or install a larger adaptor. But I am baffled by how to reach the nuts that secure the transom adaptor, inside of the transom. Has anyone else had experience with this? Also, none of the outboard brackets that will fit the existing adaptor are recommended for use with 4-stroke motors. Fulton rates some of their brackets for both 2 and 4-stroke motors, but then they say specifically that the brackets are not to be used with 4-stroke motors. Can a 5-6 HP 4-stroke, weighing 57 pounds, really be that much more stressful on a mounting bracket than a 20 HP 2-stroke? I am curious about what solutions other day sailer owners may have come up with for this. I could install a larger bracket, rated for a 4-stroke, if I could find a larger transom adaptor. Does anyone know of a source for something like that? Any help or advice that you can offer will be appreciated.
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Mike
2 cents
I guess it is possible that Oday made the boat with no access to the mounting bolts, but it is unlikely. The access for the bolts on my Oday 23 is through the storage locker, accessible from underneath the cockpit seat. Assuming you have exhausted that and all other possibilities, you can always perform minor surgery on the boat and cut an access port. For your other questions, it was explained to me that the dead weight of the engine is only a small part of the issue: a four stroke generates significantly more low-end torque than a two stroke; this will put additional strain on whatever mounting bracket you use. Is a 5hp four "equivalent" to a 20hp two? Who knows, and I for one wouldn't want to find out by having my engine crack a new bracket or my transom while out in the bay. My 2 cents: follow the manufacturers' guidance on how to use their products. They test them and rate them accordingly. As to finding a new spacer block (that angled piece of fiberglass between the bracket and transom): good luck. Oday is long out of business. Rudy at D&R Marine (his website is in the links section of this site) may have the mold to make you a new one for your model, but it would be a duplicate of the original. I bet you could find someone to make you a custom new one, but be prepared for sticker shock. Several people on this site have reported making new spacer blocks out of various materials in order to deal with replacement brackets that don't fit the original blocks. Hard woods and Star Board-type products seem to be the materials of choice. Why not see if Rudy has a replacement bracket rated to hold a four stroke that will fit the original bracket?
I guess it is possible that Oday made the boat with no access to the mounting bolts, but it is unlikely. The access for the bolts on my Oday 23 is through the storage locker, accessible from underneath the cockpit seat. Assuming you have exhausted that and all other possibilities, you can always perform minor surgery on the boat and cut an access port. For your other questions, it was explained to me that the dead weight of the engine is only a small part of the issue: a four stroke generates significantly more low-end torque than a two stroke; this will put additional strain on whatever mounting bracket you use. Is a 5hp four "equivalent" to a 20hp two? Who knows, and I for one wouldn't want to find out by having my engine crack a new bracket or my transom while out in the bay. My 2 cents: follow the manufacturers' guidance on how to use their products. They test them and rate them accordingly. As to finding a new spacer block (that angled piece of fiberglass between the bracket and transom): good luck. Oday is long out of business. Rudy at D&R Marine (his website is in the links section of this site) may have the mold to make you a new one for your model, but it would be a duplicate of the original. I bet you could find someone to make you a custom new one, but be prepared for sticker shock. Several people on this site have reported making new spacer blocks out of various materials in order to deal with replacement brackets that don't fit the original blocks. Hard woods and Star Board-type products seem to be the materials of choice. Why not see if Rudy has a replacement bracket rated to hold a four stroke that will fit the original bracket?
D
Dave K.
Motor mount retrofit
I have a 1986 O'day 192, the model built just after yours, so there may be some similarity. The motor mount on my boat was changed to a beefier one to accomodate the motor used by the previous owner. An access port was added to the aft side of the fuel tank locker under the starboard seat to gain access to the bolts. It's a pretty large, round, access port maybe 10" in diameter. I think it had to be big enough to fit a larger backing plate through since the base on this new mount is much wider than the original. The new wedge on my boat was made from a chunk of teak. I'm glad I didn't have to pay for that....... If it's any help, I think a 5 to 6 hp engine on the 19 is overkill. I've been using Honda 2 hp four-stroke that I bought for my Potter 15 and I've been surprised by how well it works on the 192. Something around 3 to 4 hp is probably an ideal compromise between power and weight. One other thing to keep in mind when you look at motor mounts is the adjustment range. The heavier duty mounts often have limited up-and-down motions relative to the original mount and you might then be restricted to a long shaft motor. Best of luck on your project.
I have a 1986 O'day 192, the model built just after yours, so there may be some similarity. The motor mount on my boat was changed to a beefier one to accomodate the motor used by the previous owner. An access port was added to the aft side of the fuel tank locker under the starboard seat to gain access to the bolts. It's a pretty large, round, access port maybe 10" in diameter. I think it had to be big enough to fit a larger backing plate through since the base on this new mount is much wider than the original. The new wedge on my boat was made from a chunk of teak. I'm glad I didn't have to pay for that....... If it's any help, I think a 5 to 6 hp engine on the 19 is overkill. I've been using Honda 2 hp four-stroke that I bought for my Potter 15 and I've been surprised by how well it works on the 192. Something around 3 to 4 hp is probably an ideal compromise between power and weight. One other thing to keep in mind when you look at motor mounts is the adjustment range. The heavier duty mounts often have limited up-and-down motions relative to the original mount and you might then be restricted to a long shaft motor. Best of luck on your project.
Thanks for the 2 cents
Thanks for your input, Mike. My outboard bracket is mounted on the starboard side of the transom. The lid for the storage locker is quite a ways forward, on the starboard side, and there is a gigantic block of foam that runs from the rear of the locker opening to the rear of the boat, almost filling that space. There is not enough room for me to squeeze around it, and my arms are not long enough to reach around it, though I could probably cut it out of there, and replace it with bags of styrofoam packing peanuts, as I read that one other 19 owner has done. There is an access port in the center of the back wall of the cockpit, but only about 4" diameter, so too small. I hate to butcher a hole in the cockpit, so perhaps at least partially removing the foam is the best option. Even if I simply end up using the existing adaptor, I want to check its integrity before hanging any outboards on it. I agree with you 100% about not wanting to destroy an outboard bracket, or my transom, and following the manufacturer's recommendations. But that is difficult when the manufacturer states that their bracket is rated for a 5 HP 4-stroke, and then states that their brackets are not to be used for ANY 4-strokes, on the same page. Which is the REAL recommendation? Your idea about inquiring with Rudy is a good one. I ordered some other items from him last week, but didn't think about him possibly having a mold for a larger transom adaptor. Or, I could probably hire a welding fabricator to build one out of aluminum for about the same cost. These were all good ideas and input, Mike. Thanks.
Thanks for your input, Mike. My outboard bracket is mounted on the starboard side of the transom. The lid for the storage locker is quite a ways forward, on the starboard side, and there is a gigantic block of foam that runs from the rear of the locker opening to the rear of the boat, almost filling that space. There is not enough room for me to squeeze around it, and my arms are not long enough to reach around it, though I could probably cut it out of there, and replace it with bags of styrofoam packing peanuts, as I read that one other 19 owner has done. There is an access port in the center of the back wall of the cockpit, but only about 4" diameter, so too small. I hate to butcher a hole in the cockpit, so perhaps at least partially removing the foam is the best option. Even if I simply end up using the existing adaptor, I want to check its integrity before hanging any outboards on it. I agree with you 100% about not wanting to destroy an outboard bracket, or my transom, and following the manufacturer's recommendations. But that is difficult when the manufacturer states that their bracket is rated for a 5 HP 4-stroke, and then states that their brackets are not to be used for ANY 4-strokes, on the same page. Which is the REAL recommendation? Your idea about inquiring with Rudy is a good one. I ordered some other items from him last week, but didn't think about him possibly having a mold for a larger transom adaptor. Or, I could probably hire a welding fabricator to build one out of aluminum for about the same cost. These were all good ideas and input, Mike. Thanks.
Thanks, Dave
Too bad my fuel tank locker is located on the port side. That would be an ideal place to make an access port. The outboard mounts on the starboard side, and access from the storage locker on that side is blocked by a large chunk of foam, as I was telling Mike. I have considered using a smaller outboard, but definitely want to go with a 4-stroke, since lakes are already being closed to 2-stroke engines, and that situation is not going to reverse itself. The problem seems to be finding a small outboard bracket that is rated to accept ANY 4-stroke motor. The 5-6 HP engine would be more versatile for me, and most smaller motors do not offer any sort of a charging system, which would be nice to have. One of the best lakes around here for sailing is notorious for having fearsome storms come out of nowhere, and I want to be sure that I have enough power to deal with those storms. Several boats go down every year. Maybe a 3-4 HP would have enough power, but many of the manufacturers seem to simply detune their 5-6 HP engines, and offer them as 3-4 HP units, that weigh the same as the more powerful engine. If I can fit a slightly larger transom adaptor, then there are several 4-stroke outboard brackets that I can choose from. Your point about more limited range of travel on the beefier brackets is well taken, but there is not a huge cost or weight difference between a long shaft and a standard shaft engine. You are fortunate that someone put a heavier duty transom adaptor on your boat, or you might have had difficulty finding a mount bracket rated to handle even your nice little Honda 2 HP engine. These were good suggestions and input, from both you and Mike. Thanks for taking the time to offer them to me.
Too bad my fuel tank locker is located on the port side. That would be an ideal place to make an access port. The outboard mounts on the starboard side, and access from the storage locker on that side is blocked by a large chunk of foam, as I was telling Mike. I have considered using a smaller outboard, but definitely want to go with a 4-stroke, since lakes are already being closed to 2-stroke engines, and that situation is not going to reverse itself. The problem seems to be finding a small outboard bracket that is rated to accept ANY 4-stroke motor. The 5-6 HP engine would be more versatile for me, and most smaller motors do not offer any sort of a charging system, which would be nice to have. One of the best lakes around here for sailing is notorious for having fearsome storms come out of nowhere, and I want to be sure that I have enough power to deal with those storms. Several boats go down every year. Maybe a 3-4 HP would have enough power, but many of the manufacturers seem to simply detune their 5-6 HP engines, and offer them as 3-4 HP units, that weigh the same as the more powerful engine. If I can fit a slightly larger transom adaptor, then there are several 4-stroke outboard brackets that I can choose from. Your point about more limited range of travel on the beefier brackets is well taken, but there is not a huge cost or weight difference between a long shaft and a standard shaft engine. You are fortunate that someone put a heavier duty transom adaptor on your boat, or you might have had difficulty finding a mount bracket rated to handle even your nice little Honda 2 HP engine. These were good suggestions and input, from both you and Mike. Thanks for taking the time to offer them to me.
4.5 johnson on a O'Day 192
I have owned a 192 for the last 3 years. It has a 4.5 Horse Johnson. I have never thought that I needed more horse power. I sail on Minnesota Lakes and rivers. Mille Lacs Lake has a 20 mile fetch before the prevaling westerlys hit the area of a family cabin. One after noon I attempted to motor out of a small harbor against 2.5 foot waves that are extemely steep due to the shallow nature of the lake. The motor was strong enough, but as I cranked the throtle all the way to get through the entrance to the harbor the two inch plywood block that the motor was bolted to broke away cleanly. I was hanging onto a fully reving motor no longer attached to the boat. Fortunately I was able to hit the kill switch, swing the motor into the cockpit and then quickly fend off as the boat was thrown toward the rocks of the break water. The moral of my story is pay as much attention to the mount and the mounting block ( I replaced mine with plastic) than the size of the motor
I have owned a 192 for the last 3 years. It has a 4.5 Horse Johnson. I have never thought that I needed more horse power. I sail on Minnesota Lakes and rivers. Mille Lacs Lake has a 20 mile fetch before the prevaling westerlys hit the area of a family cabin. One after noon I attempted to motor out of a small harbor against 2.5 foot waves that are extemely steep due to the shallow nature of the lake. The motor was strong enough, but as I cranked the throtle all the way to get through the entrance to the harbor the two inch plywood block that the motor was bolted to broke away cleanly. I was hanging onto a fully reving motor no longer attached to the boat. Fortunately I was able to hit the kill switch, swing the motor into the cockpit and then quickly fend off as the boat was thrown toward the rocks of the break water. The moral of my story is pay as much attention to the mount and the mounting block ( I replaced mine with plastic) than the size of the motor
E
Eveningstar1
Gentlemen, we have ignition
Thanks for the input, and interesting story, JP. I agree with the importance of the motor mount. That has been one of the most difficult parts of this process to resolve. There are a number of mounting brackets available that seem like they would be strong enough, but their manufacturers restrict their use to 2-stroke motors, period. Then, there is the related issue of what to do about a transome adaptor large enough to handle an adequate motor bracket. I think that I have finally found the solution for it all. I wrote to Garelick, and they have advised me that their Model 71033 stainless steel motor bracket is OK to use with 4-stroke outboards rated 6 HP and under. The 71033 bracket is specially reinforced for long shaft motors, and also offers adjustment for 30 degrees of either positive or negative trim on the transom, so I won't need a seperate transom adaptor. Without the transom adaptor, the outboard will sit closer to the transom, reducing stress on the transom. However, just in case, I went to the local steel yard, yesterday, and bought two good sized pieces of 1/4" aluminum plate, with which I intend to reinforce the transom, both inside and out (diamond plate for the outside), distributing the stress over a larger area. I have decided to go with an extra long shaft Tohatsu 6 HP 4-stroke. This is the same motor that is sold as a Nissan or Mercury. According to the on line reviews that I have read, these motors have a good reputation for quality and reliability, and are lighter than most 4-5 HP 4-strokes. Plus, the extra long shaft comes standard with a 5 Amp (60 Watt) alternator factory installed, and costs no more than the standard shaft unit together with a kit for a user installed alternator. It's good to know that I could get by with less HP, but my plans include a 26-27 foot sailboat in the future, and it will be nice to have an engine that will be adequate for the larger boat, too. I really want to thank you and all of the other people who have provided me with advice and suggestions.
Thanks for the input, and interesting story, JP. I agree with the importance of the motor mount. That has been one of the most difficult parts of this process to resolve. There are a number of mounting brackets available that seem like they would be strong enough, but their manufacturers restrict their use to 2-stroke motors, period. Then, there is the related issue of what to do about a transome adaptor large enough to handle an adequate motor bracket. I think that I have finally found the solution for it all. I wrote to Garelick, and they have advised me that their Model 71033 stainless steel motor bracket is OK to use with 4-stroke outboards rated 6 HP and under. The 71033 bracket is specially reinforced for long shaft motors, and also offers adjustment for 30 degrees of either positive or negative trim on the transom, so I won't need a seperate transom adaptor. Without the transom adaptor, the outboard will sit closer to the transom, reducing stress on the transom. However, just in case, I went to the local steel yard, yesterday, and bought two good sized pieces of 1/4" aluminum plate, with which I intend to reinforce the transom, both inside and out (diamond plate for the outside), distributing the stress over a larger area. I have decided to go with an extra long shaft Tohatsu 6 HP 4-stroke. This is the same motor that is sold as a Nissan or Mercury. According to the on line reviews that I have read, these motors have a good reputation for quality and reliability, and are lighter than most 4-5 HP 4-strokes. Plus, the extra long shaft comes standard with a 5 Amp (60 Watt) alternator factory installed, and costs no more than the standard shaft unit together with a kit for a user installed alternator. It's good to know that I could get by with less HP, but my plans include a 26-27 foot sailboat in the future, and it will be nice to have an engine that will be adequate for the larger boat, too. I really want to thank you and all of the other people who have provided me with advice and suggestions.
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