Outboard motor mount

[Tom Wootton]

While tying up after sailing last Sunday, I discovered a lengthwise crack near the top edge of the teak board that the outboard clamps onto. I'm thinking of replacing it with starboard, and I'm wondering how thick it needs to be in this material. The teak is nearly 2"; starboard is available 1 1/2" max as far as I can tell, but I'm hoping 1" or 3/4" is enough given the higher strength (and cost) of the material. Also, I was running late and didn't have time to remove or measure the board. Can anyone give me the dimensions? My boat is a 1995 H26. Thanks in Advance

 

[Jeff]

Call Hunter I Did

Tom, Mine cracked a couple of years ago as a result of an accidental grounding. I replaced mine with one from Hunter. They had it in stock. It's a black plastic material and it comes with no holes predrilled. You take your old one and clamp it to the new one and drill the four holes using the old ones as a guide. Then bolt it back up. Don't forget the sealant under the new mount. The hole thing took about an hour. Good Luck.Jeff"Festivity" 1996 H26

 

[Tom Wootton]

Hunter out of stock

I inquired with Mike at Hunter, they're 3 weeks out, and I don't want to wait. He did give me the dimensions, 5 7/8" x 19" x2". I'll probably make one out of LVL and coat it with epoxy.

 

[Ray Bowles]

Tom, Is your motor mount a direct bolt on block

of wood to the transom or is it a metal extension from the transom to the motor? My 95 H26 is a directly bolted wooden board. Because of this my Honda 9.9 would not raise high enough to come all the way out of the water when raised. I ended up adding a 2" riser on top and then reinforcing the whole mess with a 3/16 stainless plate.RayS/V Speedy

 

[Tom Wootton]

Ray, it's teak...

...directly bolted, but I am thinking of reinforcing the replacement with a piece of 1/4"x2"x6" aluminum angle, partly to get the thickness right (LVL is only 1 3/4") and partly to protect it from the weather.