Outboard length

Hugh Straub · Nov 28, 2013

Hi Justin

On my 23.5 which I think is substantially similar to your 240, I use a 5hp Honda long (20 inch) shaft. I have no dragging issues when sailing on port tack when the starboard mounted raised engine is closest to the water. More importantly, when under power, I can handle lines on the fore deck without the propeller coming out of the water. Also important, in the short stiff chop which quickly develops on shallow Lake Ponchartrain, the propeller stays immersed. I think the 15 inch shaft would be too short.

Happy Thanksgiving

Hugh

Tom J · Nov 28, 2013

You need the long shaft for all the reasons Hugh mentioned. You could try tilting the outboard when it is raised, but that shouldn't be necessary. A good outboard bracket should lower the OB below the horizontal position, and then raise it almost vertical with the aid of a strong spring. Perhaps you could try raising your bracket higher on the transom.

Rick Webb · Nov 28, 2013

Short Shaft Too Short

Long shaft is mostly OK I have an XLong shaft and would not go back to a Long shaft

Crazy Dave Condon · Dec 2, 2013

Justin;

Since I introduced the boats and probably the most knowledgable, I will chime in.

There are three lengths, short (15 inches), long (20 inches) and extra long (25 inches).
First the short shaft in most cases is not long enough for water pick up and I urge against that one at all costs. If you are in shallow waters, lake, river, etc., the 20 inch is highly suggested as you are not experiencing high waves. If in the ocean with rolling seas, I suggest the extra long shaft as the back end of the boat sometimes will have a tendancy to come out thus the unusual whining being heard from the prop with a 20 inch shaft.

With the long shaft, generally you will not need to be careful motoring to the dock in shallow waters but a little more concern with the extra long shaft. If motoring the boat onto the motor, I generally did not have to bring the motor up at all but with the extra long shaft, that was a concern with that additional 5 inches. In fact on both the 260 and 26 water ballast,I did not have to tilt them up when going onto the trailer but did so with the extra long shafts. You also have to make sure there are no under water bracing if on a floating dock going into the slip with the extra long or 25 inch shaft

A lot will basically depend on the area where you sail. Again I will reiterate that the transoms are designed for 10 hp max and those considering larger hp engines, be forwarned of the damages to the transom. I also suggest letting the engine run out of gas every time if using ethanol gas.

crazy dave condon

Chief RA · Dec 2, 2013

Justin: I would bolt that long shaft to my transom and put in spacer blocks to get it up higher when in raised position until it clears the water! Chief

Crazy Dave Condon · Dec 3, 2013

Chief;

I will disagree with you on bolting any motor to the transom. If you are talking about the bracket that the motor rests on, then I will agree. I am pretty much think that is what you are talking about. By the way, I also was the top seller for the Catalina 250 and introduced that boat for Catalina as well.

Chief RA · Dec 3, 2013

No Dave I mean bolt on the motor with spacers. Chief

Crazy Dave Condon · Dec 4, 2013

chief;

The transom motor mount area is fiberglass which I believe has a thin delrin plastic attached for the motor attachment. I had referred to the transom of the 26 which has a board basically for attachment of the motor. I goofed as I should have been more specific referring solely to the old style Hunter 26 water ballast.

You are on the right track with the spacers but suggest that you reinforce the backside of the fiberglass with a long strap between the bolt holes to spread out the load. I know it is difficult turning the motor in that motor well on the 250 and strongly suggested to Butler changing that years ago but to no prevail.

What I ended up doing I think was actually using the same stainless steel brackets found on the 260 with delrin plastic board to attach the motor to in order to get the motor out further so it would clear better from the motor well. If tiller, I would add a tiller extension to steer with and if the boat had wheel steering, I simply attached a motor to rudder connecting rod and turned the motor with the wheel. In fact, I use to buy the electric start with the throttle and gear selector levers on the pedestal which was a hit with my customers. AS for starting, I would have the owners start the motor at the motor but in some cases I used a separate key switch mounted on the starboard cockpit wall adjacent to the helm seat between the cockpit floor and seat or somewhere close for easy access to start and turn off.

Crazy dave condon

Chief RA · Dec 4, 2013

Dave: I don't have a problem with my motor as I have enough turning radius on my new 9.8hp Tohatsu. Moving the motor to starboard to maximize steering, shimming motor back w/ outside plate, and bolting gives enough steering in conjunction w/ the tiller to do the job. I have all front motor controls w/ long handle and electric start. I am going to stay with this approach for now as I do not want the controls any further back than necessary.
One of my concerns is the rudder. I intend to modify it, so, what info can you provide with regard to that? I am thinking, pin it in place as a wing keel doesn't need a retractable rudder! It seems not wide enough at 13" either but will test it more. A tether line for the rudder is definately in order as well.
The trailer tongue extension combined with a new fabricated 5' truck reciever extension worked well on the recent retrieval of the boat at Bodega Bay.
I have only had her since September so still getting her set up. Compass Rose is spending the winter in her own boat house/shed this winter on my property and will be getting her ready to go for spring.(cleared 12'6" shed roof by 6") Chief

Crazy Dave Condon · Dec 5, 2013

I would not pin the rudder because if you hit hard with it, something is going to happen to it unless you have the wing keel version which you have but then do not forget the floating debri. Ok it has beens some time but does that boat have a fixed rudder on two pintels/gudegeons without swinging up. Also the year of the boat would be appreciated because the rudder was changed long ago for best performance and if you have that newer rudder, I would leave that one alone.

I know the Tohatsu as I was a Tohatsu dealer for over 30 years and if it works well for you with your set up, stay with it. Some folks have the wheel steering and loved the fact the throttle and gear selectors were on that like the bigger boats. It use to be a control box for all that could be mounted in the cockpit. But if what you have works for you, then that is all you need.

chief, email me at davecondon@mindspring.com with phone and where located so I can call you. Something about your rudder is not right. I will wait till I hear from you.

dave condon

Chief RA · Dec 5, 2013

Dave: 1998 Cat 250 w/ wing keel and tall mast. Yes, it does have a deep draw swing up rudder and that is what concerns me. It has already swung up twice, unexpectedly, and hit my new prop! Chief

Crazy Dave Condon · Dec 9, 2013

The Catalina 250 wing keel boat came standard with a fixed rudder which is surprising. They have perfected that rudder for that boat and suggest that you try this site. If they do not have one, I will call you to give you the contact information. If you need to talk about the rudder, call the chief desingor, Gerry Douglas, at the Catalina plant located near St. Pete, Florida.