Hi Everyone! After careful consideration (or so I would like to think), I am going to pull the 40 year old MD6A and install an outboard. I think I'm going to go with the Tohatsu 6 hp Four-Stroke 25 inch extra long shaft sail pro. My plan is to pull the old motor (no small task), plug the prop shaft (not sure how, yet), add a piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, epoxy coated marine plywood to the inside of the transom, add an outboard mount, add the outboard and build a place for a gas tank.Can anyone offer some advice before I get started? I'll take any advice anyone that has done this type of project before has to offer, but specifically:1. There is a 4 inch by 6 inch beefed up piece inside the port side of the transom. Could this be for an outboard mount? If so, or if not, do I have to remove it to add the plywood backing? Any advice for how to deal with this?2. What are the regulations for installing a gas tank in the port aft or aft center lazarette? I have only worked with diesels, so I'm not sure what needs to be done for unleaded? (FYI - I am considering a 3-5 gallon tank.)3. As anyone identified an outboard mount that they are happy with...something that provides maximum travel? Maybe even something spring loaded and on a track? Or had one made and kept the design? (I can cut, weld and beat just about anything into something useable.)4. Can a polypro diesel tank be used for unleaded? Or are they not interchangeable?5. Is the 25 inch shaft on this outboard too long? They also make a 20 inch model.If anyone has done this before and has some details, that would be great. Photos are always appreciated!Thanks!BW
Outboard Install
- Thread starter bonnerwhitman
- Start date
Hi Bonner, Sealing the prop tube is a piece of cake. First get a can of spray foam (fire treated) and fill the tube tight. Then make a cover plate over the bronze housing where the prop mounted at the rear of the boat. Use a watertight sealer, and tighten the two bolts using lock-tight or flexible epoxy. Now go inside the engine compartment and at the tube coming through the hull, install a rubber cap which tightens against the tube...also using a good water proof sealant and tighten down. The 4” x 6” backing blocks were used to mount your ladder. I would leave them in place and cut your plywood tight around these two blocks. Sand the transom to get a nice smooth and flat surface. Wash the transom with Acetone to really clean the surface. Have your plywood sized to fit tight at all edges minus 3/16” for 6/10 epoxy. Once you epoxy your sheet of plywood on the transom, make sure to clamp and kick off the inside of the boat to hold the sheet in place for 24 hours. Then go back using 6/10 epoxy which you use in a caulking gun and fill the void (this will be that 3/16”void) around your sheet from the hull. Use a plastic putty knife to force the epoxy into the void and knock down flush with the plywood. If it was me, I would place your outboard motor dead center of the transom. It will steer better, it will keep the additional weight of the outboard and mount centered in the boat. Even with the plywood epoxied to the transom, I would add a alum. 3/8” backing plate inside against the plywood 2” wider each way than your mounting bolt hole layout. This will keep the nuts from digging into your plywood and let you really tighten your mounting bolts. Make sure you stop nut, or pin the bolt so the nuts can never back off. As for a fuel tank, I like a fuel cell. They come in all sizes and would fit or mount just about anywhere you want to mount it. Gas is always a little scary, venting, over flow, are items to deal with. The lower you place the tank in the boat the better, all depending on your outboard. Fuel pump, gravity feed. You could place the tank deep into the bottom of the boat and go with an electric fuel pump. There are a lot of ways to move fuel even if you have a gravity fuel system with your outboard. You could also clean your existing diesel tank, make sure your vent system in the tank is good, your over flow has a way out of the boat and if needed put an inline electric fuel pump to push the fuel to the new outboard. Well that is what I know...LOL. Larry Sent from Windows Mail From: bonnerwhitman@...Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 4:38 PMTo: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Hi Everyone! After careful consideration (or so I would like to think), I am going to pull the 40 year old MD6A and install an outboard. I think I\'m going to go with the Tohatsu 6 hp Four-Stroke 25 inch extra long shaft sail pro. My plan is to pull the old motor (no small task), plug the prop shaft (not sure how, yet), add a piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, epoxy coated marine plywood to the inside of the transom, add an outboard mount, add the outboard and build a place for a gas tank.Can anyone offer some advice before I get started? I\'ll take any advice anyone that has done this type of project before has to offer, but specifically:1. There is a 4 inch by 6 inch beefed up piece inside the port side of the transom. Could this be for an outboard mount? If so, or if not, do I have to remove it to add the plywood backing? Any advice for how to deal with this?2. What are the regulations for installing a gas tank in the port aft or aft center lazarette? I have only worked with diesels, so I\'m not sure what needs to be done for unleaded? (FYI - I am considering a 3-5 gallon tank.)3. As anyone identified an outboard mount that they are happy with...something that provides maximum travel? Maybe even something spring loaded and on a track? Or had one made and kept the design? (I can cut, weld and beat just about anything into something useable.)4. Can a polypro diesel tank be used for unleaded? Or are they not interchangeable?5. Is the 25 inch shaft on this outboard too long? They also make a 20 inch model.If anyone has done this before and has some details, that would be great. Photos are always appreciated!Thanks!BW
Hi Everyone! After careful consideration (or so I would like to think), I am going to pull the 40 year old MD6A and install an outboard. I think I\'m going to go with the Tohatsu 6 hp Four-Stroke 25 inch extra long shaft sail pro. My plan is to pull the old motor (no small task), plug the prop shaft (not sure how, yet), add a piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, epoxy coated marine plywood to the inside of the transom, add an outboard mount, add the outboard and build a place for a gas tank.Can anyone offer some advice before I get started? I\'ll take any advice anyone that has done this type of project before has to offer, but specifically:1. There is a 4 inch by 6 inch beefed up piece inside the port side of the transom. Could this be for an outboard mount? If so, or if not, do I have to remove it to add the plywood backing? Any advice for how to deal with this?2. What are the regulations for installing a gas tank in the port aft or aft center lazarette? I have only worked with diesels, so I\'m not sure what needs to be done for unleaded? (FYI - I am considering a 3-5 gallon tank.)3. As anyone identified an outboard mount that they are happy with...something that provides maximum travel? Maybe even something spring loaded and on a track? Or had one made and kept the design? (I can cut, weld and beat just about anything into something useable.)4. Can a polypro diesel tank be used for unleaded? Or are they not interchangeable?5. Is the 25 inch shaft on this outboard too long? They also make a 20 inch model.If anyone has done this before and has some details, that would be great. Photos are always appreciated!Thanks!BW
OK, I'll jump in here ... and all these are what I'd probably do for this conversion.- 9.9hp Yamaha long shaft high thrust electric start engine.- Garelick 71091 motor bracket (15 1/2" of travel).- Definately reinforce the transom ... maybe better to offset the motor to one side ??- Built-in fuel tank under the cockpit floor.- Bilge blower to vent stray gasoline fumes.- Cap the old prop shaft in a way to allow it's use in the future.Good luck with your project!Peterwww.mostlyaboutboats.ca
I did the opposite to my Vega which is now sadly sold 
. I converted it back to a diesel inboard. The PO(s) had sailed the boat from Sweden to Australia with the outboard.This link will show you the picture of the outboard and fuel tank location.
s1133.photobucket.com
This outboard was a extra longshaft Suzuki 4 stroke 15 hp. It was installed without a backing and the flexing had damaged the fibreglass. If I were doing it I would put a 3/4" to 1" plywood backing and big washers to prevent this.
The shaft blog was sealed by simply jamming it with a wooden dowell matching the inner diameter of the log about 4" long and then laying a couple of patches of fibreglass over the opening from the outside. This seemed to hold up very well, and except for the fact that the stern bearing had been trimmed off with a saws-all, it made it very easy to remove when converting back to the inboard. I don't have a closeup of the original sealing, but here is a picture of the log shaft once the plug was removed and it was cleaned up ready for the new bearing housing to be attached:
s1133.photobucket.com
I never used the outboard, so I can't report how it went. Logic would say closer to the centreline would be best, but the offset on this install apparently wasn't a problem.
Cheers - Jeff.
. I converted it back to a diesel inboard. The PO(s) had sailed the boat from Sweden to Australia with the outboard.This link will show you the picture of the outboard and fuel tank location.
Photo by ReefMagnet
Miss Isle before purchase - See this image on Photobucket.
The shaft blog was sealed by simply jamming it with a wooden dowell matching the inner diameter of the log about 4" long and then laying a couple of patches of fibreglass over the opening from the outside. This seemed to hold up very well, and except for the fact that the stern bearing had been trimmed off with a saws-all, it made it very easy to remove when converting back to the inboard. I don't have a closeup of the original sealing, but here is a picture of the log shaft once the plug was removed and it was cleaned up ready for the new bearing housing to be attached:
Photo by ReefMagnet
Old remains of stern bearing housing removed - See this image on Photobucket.
Cheers - Jeff.
I was doing a lot of sailing back in the late 1960's and 70's when
outboard motors were very common
on sailboats under 30 ft. Everyone complained about them and
everyone wanted an inboard engine. That is the reason Yanmar started
building small engines. I would suggest that it is likely your
volvo has never been reuilt. I have a diesel mechanic that says he
can rebuild the one in my boat for $2500. The bearih gs crankshaft
and all that never wear out so the only thing they need is new
Piston rings and the valves reground. New injectors if needed and
the high pressure bump rebuilt. One of the very expensive things
installing an outboard is the damage to the value of the boat not
having an inboard engine. There are some people on this list and
other places that sell the little Bata diesels or small Yanmar.
There is a ton of advice around on doing the conversion for free.
You might even be able to buy a worn out Yanmar for$1000 and have
it rebuilt the cylinder head reworked and rings installed. These
little engines are almost never worn out but simple need a top end
rebuilding which is not all that expensive give it a coat of paint
and You have a new engine. I would think about this and research it
a little. Doug
On 11/19/2013 01:30 AM, Jeff Brown
wrote:
outboard motors were very common
on sailboats under 30 ft. Everyone complained about them and
everyone wanted an inboard engine. That is the reason Yanmar started
building small engines. I would suggest that it is likely your
volvo has never been reuilt. I have a diesel mechanic that says he
can rebuild the one in my boat for $2500. The bearih gs crankshaft
and all that never wear out so the only thing they need is new
Piston rings and the valves reground. New injectors if needed and
the high pressure bump rebuilt. One of the very expensive things
installing an outboard is the damage to the value of the boat not
having an inboard engine. There are some people on this list and
other places that sell the little Bata diesels or small Yanmar.
There is a ton of advice around on doing the conversion for free.
You might even be able to buy a worn out Yanmar for$1000 and have
it rebuilt the cylinder head reworked and rings installed. These
little engines are almost never worn out but simple need a top end
rebuilding which is not all that expensive give it a coat of paint
and You have a new engine. I would think about this and research it
a little. Doug
On 11/19/2013 01:30 AM, Jeff Brown
wrote:
Will the outboard be capable of mooving the boat over high head winds and waves (power) ,and with out stresing the transome ,as that wasnt predicted by the manufacturer... I remind you that the VIGGEN model had special study for outboad instalation.What about fuel consumption and electricity genaration ? ???? 4:59 ?.?. ?????, 19 ????????? 2013, ?/? Douglas Pollard dougpol2@... ??????:
I was doing a lot of sailing back in the late 1960's and 70's when
outboard motors were very common
on sailboats under 30 ft. Everyone complained about them and
everyone wanted an inboard engine. That is the reason Yanmar started
building small engines. I would suggest that it is likely your
volvo has never been reuilt. I have a diesel mechanic that says he
can rebuild the one in my boat for $2500. The bearih gs crankshaft
and all that never wear out so the only thing they need is new
Piston rings and the valves reground. New injectors if needed and
the high pressure bump rebuilt. One of the very expensive things
installing an outboard is the damage to the value of the boat not
having an inboard engine. There are some people on this list and
other places that sell the little Bata diesels or small Yanmar.
There is a ton of advice around on doing the conversion for free.
You might even be able to buy a worn out Yanmar for$1000 and have
it rebuilt the cylinder head reworked and rings installed. These
little engines are almost never worn out but simple need a top end
rebuilding which is not all that expensive give it a coat of paint
and You have a new engine. I would think about this and research it
a little. Doug
On 11/19/2013 01:30 AM, Jeff Brown
wrote:
I was doing a lot of sailing back in the late 1960's and 70's when
outboard motors were very common
on sailboats under 30 ft. Everyone complained about them and
everyone wanted an inboard engine. That is the reason Yanmar started
building small engines. I would suggest that it is likely your
volvo has never been reuilt. I have a diesel mechanic that says he
can rebuild the one in my boat for $2500. The bearih gs crankshaft
and all that never wear out so the only thing they need is new
Piston rings and the valves reground. New injectors if needed and
the high pressure bump rebuilt. One of the very expensive things
installing an outboard is the damage to the value of the boat not
having an inboard engine. There are some people on this list and
other places that sell the little Bata diesels or small Yanmar.
There is a ton of advice around on doing the conversion for free.
You might even be able to buy a worn out Yanmar for$1000 and have
it rebuilt the cylinder head reworked and rings installed. These
little engines are almost never worn out but simple need a top end
rebuilding which is not all that expensive give it a coat of paint
and You have a new engine. I would think about this and research it
a little. Doug
On 11/19/2013 01:30 AM, Jeff Brown
wrote:
Thanks everyone for the advice so far! Please keep it coming! I have considered simply replacing or rebuilding the diesel, but the cost of a replacement is prohibitive. I can definitely do the work, but even then it is quite expensive. I'll re-crunch some numbers and pros and cons before I commit to the project...but in addition to the cost, having the space available below is a huge selling point. Thanks again!BW
As someone who has an outboard, I wish I had an inboard. I was reading Larry and Lin Pardey at the time I bought my boat and was too much influenced by them. In rougher seas the prop comes out of the water. Cygnet is a fine boat otherwise. I know Ric is outfitting his Vega with an outboard. I'm watching for him to weigh in on the subject here.Bruces/v Cygnet #169From: bonnerwhitman@...To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 16:44:02 -0800Subject: RE: ????: [AlbinVega] RE: Outboard Install
Thanks everyone for the advice so far! Please keep it coming! I have considered simply replacing or rebuilding the diesel, but the cost of a replacement is prohibitive. I can definitely do the work, but even then it is quite expensive. I'll re-crunch some numbers and pros and cons before I commit to the project...but in addition to the cost, having the space available below is a huge selling point. Thanks again!BW
Thanks everyone for the advice so far! Please keep it coming! I have considered simply replacing or rebuilding the diesel, but the cost of a replacement is prohibitive. I can definitely do the work, but even then it is quite expensive. I'll re-crunch some numbers and pros and cons before I commit to the project...but in addition to the cost, having the space available below is a huge selling point. Thanks again!BW
Since a couple people have commented on staying with an inboard, does anyone have an idea what it might cost for a Beta (assuming I'll need the entire setup, prop, shaft, transmission...anything else?). I'm sure I can do the work myself.Thanks,BW
Our Volvo Penta was replaced during a cruise. I don't regret it.
I would consider OB replacement in an time crunch situation like needing to get somewhere on a timeline.
But I much prefer an Deisel.
Paul
I would consider OB replacement in an time crunch situation like needing to get somewhere on a timeline.
But I much prefer an Deisel.
Paul
I've been following the Blog of Glatisant (http://www.glatisant.hu/index.php?lang=en). He's been sailing around the Med in a Vega with an outboard conversion. You might try contacting him for some advice.With my ageing MD6a I've been researching Kubota marine engines build under license in China (http://marine_engine.china-direct-buy.com/v/4/product_detail/11551637/14HP_MARINE_ENGINE.html). The cost of these is about the cost of an similar sized outboard. Most opinions seem to be" they can't be good because they're made in China". But the reports of people who have actually used them are good.Bob FuchsSV SilentiumVega 2296
I changed out everything and replaced wit beta14 one yr ago in annapolis. I did half the work, dealer/ mechanic did the lining up and expert stuff. I remember it being $10k. About $7k for motor.
Hey Bonner - if you manage to extract your shaft and combi without destroying them, I would be very interested in purchasing them. Thanks, Trevor (V2915 - Mystic Rose) From: bonnerwhitman@...To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 16:38:20 -0800Subject: [AlbinVega] Outboard Install 
Hi Everyone!  After careful consideration (or so I would like to think), I am going to pull the 40 year old MD6A and install an outboard.  I think I'm going to go with the Tohatsu 6 hp Four-Stroke 25 inch extra long shaft sail pro.  My plan is to pull the old motor (no small task), plug the prop shaft (not sure how, yet), add a piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, epoxy coated marine plywood to the inside of the transom, add an outboard mount, add the outboard and build a place for a gas tank.Can anyone offer some advice before I get started?  I'll take any advice anyone that has done this type of project before has to offer, but specifically:1.  There is a 4 inch by 6 inch beefed up piece inside the port side of the transom.  Could this be for an outboard mount?  If so, or if not, do I have to remove it to add the plywood backing?  Any advice for how to deal with this?2.  What are the regulations for installing a gas tank in the port aft or aft center lazarette?  I have only worked with diesels, so I'm not sure what needs to be done for unleaded?  (FYI - I am considering a 3-5 gallon tank.)3.  As anyone identified an outboard mount that they are happy with...something that provides maximum travel?  Maybe even something spring loaded and on a track?  Or had one made and kept the design?  (I can cut, weld and beat just about anything into something useable.)4.  Can a polypro diesel tank be used for unleaded?  Or are they not interchangeable?5.  Is the 25 inch shaft on this outboard too long?  They also make a 20 inch model.If anyone has done this before and has some details, that would be great.  Photos are always appreciated!Thanks!BW
Hi Everyone!  After careful consideration (or so I would like to think), I am going to pull the 40 year old MD6A and install an outboard.  I think I'm going to go with the Tohatsu 6 hp Four-Stroke 25 inch extra long shaft sail pro.  My plan is to pull the old motor (no small task), plug the prop shaft (not sure how, yet), add a piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, epoxy coated marine plywood to the inside of the transom, add an outboard mount, add the outboard and build a place for a gas tank.Can anyone offer some advice before I get started?  I'll take any advice anyone that has done this type of project before has to offer, but specifically:1.  There is a 4 inch by 6 inch beefed up piece inside the port side of the transom.  Could this be for an outboard mount?  If so, or if not, do I have to remove it to add the plywood backing?  Any advice for how to deal with this?2.  What are the regulations for installing a gas tank in the port aft or aft center lazarette?  I have only worked with diesels, so I'm not sure what needs to be done for unleaded?  (FYI - I am considering a 3-5 gallon tank.)3.  As anyone identified an outboard mount that they are happy with...something that provides maximum travel?  Maybe even something spring loaded and on a track?  Or had one made and kept the design?  (I can cut, weld and beat just about anything into something useable.)4.  Can a polypro diesel tank be used for unleaded?  Or are they not interchangeable?5.  Is the 25 inch shaft on this outboard too long?  They also make a 20 inch model.If anyone has done this before and has some details, that would be great.  Photos are always appreciated!Thanks!BW
Having had both (in and out boards on a vega) I thought I would contribute.In rough water the prop comes out of the water full stop, the difference is about 6 inches, this might make a big difference to a man but not too a boat.The last time I had problems with my Outboard, it was a F7, as you all know, its always on the nose, we were about 3nm out to sea, a 5ft sharp chop, the engine braket split but it was still hanging on.I reduced from 75% (I never have it
at 100%) down to 50% the throttel and it kept on pushing the boat.......1 hr later we are probably still 2nm out and the whole thing gave up, engine came off (i put some lines just for those events), my heart sunk at that point.We had been beating on the wind that day for about 5 hrs, now with no other solution than to sail, I raised the storm sail and we started sailing, it took less than 1 hrs to get us into port, no only that it was a lot more
comfortable than under engine.Next time I would use the sails over the engine any time, any engine.The real question
is what is your type of sailing? go out of the marina, watch the world go by then come back in, maybe a weekend out here and there? then inboard for sure, because:1) You dont need the space.2) Comfort is above anything else.3) If you need a spare you can wait for it to arrive.4) They are sturdy (ie unlikely to have their base break).If you are going far...............welll I am always thinking of who can fix it or
where can I fix my engine? how about spares? a 2 stroke Yamaha can be fixed even by me! I have ran it on the petrol and oil mixture, parraffine and petrol, methilated spirits and petrol, turpentine and petrol, (I am not sure about the ratios, I think that it might have gone to 3 parts methilated spirits 1 petrol, one time) just about anything that was lying about when I was about to run out of petrol, it would not even sputter! it smell a bit funny though. if I would have made it to the Caribbean I recon I would have tried
rum...............One more thing, if you are planning to do +1500nm on the engine, due to fuel consumption an inboard works out cheaper, this was an analysis against a 2 stroke, 4 L/hr consumption engine, so a 4 stroke should be different, dont know by how much.
On Wednesday, 20 November 2013, 14:35, Groundhog groundhogyh@... wrote:
I changed out everything and replaced wit beta14 one yr ago in annapolis. I did half the work, dealer/ mechanic did the lining up and expert stuff. I remember it being $10k. About $7k for motor. On Nov 19, 2013, at 8:13 PM, bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
at 100%) down to 50% the throttel and it kept on pushing the boat.......1 hr later we are probably still 2nm out and the whole thing gave up, engine came off (i put some lines just for those events), my heart sunk at that point.We had been beating on the wind that day for about 5 hrs, now with no other solution than to sail, I raised the storm sail and we started sailing, it took less than 1 hrs to get us into port, no only that it was a lot more
comfortable than under engine.Next time I would use the sails over the engine any time, any engine.The real question
is what is your type of sailing? go out of the marina, watch the world go by then come back in, maybe a weekend out here and there? then inboard for sure, because:1) You dont need the space.2) Comfort is above anything else.3) If you need a spare you can wait for it to arrive.4) They are sturdy (ie unlikely to have their base break).If you are going far...............welll I am always thinking of who can fix it or
where can I fix my engine? how about spares? a 2 stroke Yamaha can be fixed even by me! I have ran it on the petrol and oil mixture, parraffine and petrol, methilated spirits and petrol, turpentine and petrol, (I am not sure about the ratios, I think that it might have gone to 3 parts methilated spirits 1 petrol, one time) just about anything that was lying about when I was about to run out of petrol, it would not even sputter! it smell a bit funny though. if I would have made it to the Caribbean I recon I would have tried
rum...............One more thing, if you are planning to do +1500nm on the engine, due to fuel consumption an inboard works out cheaper, this was an analysis against a 2 stroke, 4 L/hr consumption engine, so a 4 stroke should be different, dont know by how much.
On Wednesday, 20 November 2013, 14:35, Groundhog groundhogyh@... wrote:
I changed out everything and replaced wit beta14 one yr ago in annapolis. I did half the work, dealer/ mechanic did the lining up and expert stuff. I remember it being $10k. About $7k for motor. On Nov 19, 2013, at 8:13 PM, bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
Cheaper from the UK!
From: Groundhog
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 3:34 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] RE: RE: ????: [AlbinVega ] RE: Outb oard
Insta ll
I changed out everything and replaced wit beta14 one yr ago in
annapolis.
I did half the work, dealer/ mechanic did the lining up and expert
stuff.
I remember it being $10k.
About $7k for motor.
On Nov 19, 2013, at 8:13 PM, bonnerwhitman@...
wrote:
From: Groundhog
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 3:34 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] RE: RE: ????: [AlbinVega ] RE: Outb oard
Insta ll
I changed out everything and replaced wit beta14 one yr ago in
annapolis.
I did half the work, dealer/ mechanic did the lining up and expert
stuff.
I remember it being $10k.
About $7k for motor.
On Nov 19, 2013, at 8:13 PM, bonnerwhitman@...
wrote:
How do you know the engine is worn out? Most of the time when they
are not running right or don't have power it is because the valves
are worn. The cylinder head can be reworked in a machine shop for
$500 or less. if you go looking for advice from a diesel mechanic
on rebuilting find an old one. They understand rebuilding. Most of
the young ones have been tought by Yanmar or Bata and mostly what
the understand is repairing those engines and the big service the
provide is to sell you a new engine. Replacing engines is a new
modern answer. Concider this your engine was designed around 1920
it had no starter or alternator. They ran pumps and generators and
they ran 24-7 for 10 years then the were rebuilt to run anther 10
years some went through this process 3 to 5 times. These slow
turning engines should last 75 to 100 years in a sailboat if the
cylinder head is reworked on occasion. Today with solarpanels an led
lights the engines are hardly used as generators at all. So for the
most part to are used to go in and out of the dock and motoring home
on Sunday if there is no wind. My engine is over 40 years old and I
am almost 80 I God willing will be sailing another 10 years my
engine runs a charm and I don't expect to replace it. I cannot
emagine how your engine could possibley be worn out in a boat that
is only 40 years old. We all have been taken in by consumerism
were we replace cars that are very capable of runnig 500,000 miles
when they get 100,000 on them. Your engine was built befor that
started and I believe that Albin thought the engine was good for
the life of the boat.
Newport News Ship building in WW2 built Buddy diesels for navy
landing barges and captains gigs as well as Rhino barges. They
called them throw away engines and were expected to last the
duration of the war. Some are still running today and you haven't
been able to buy any parts for them after 1970.
What I am saying is be really sure you need a new engine. In
all probability all it needs is a little reworking. It don't cost
anything to get some advice from and old shade tree mechanic.
Doug
On 11/19/2013 07:44 PM,
bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
are not running right or don't have power it is because the valves
are worn. The cylinder head can be reworked in a machine shop for
$500 or less. if you go looking for advice from a diesel mechanic
on rebuilting find an old one. They understand rebuilding. Most of
the young ones have been tought by Yanmar or Bata and mostly what
the understand is repairing those engines and the big service the
provide is to sell you a new engine. Replacing engines is a new
modern answer. Concider this your engine was designed around 1920
it had no starter or alternator. They ran pumps and generators and
they ran 24-7 for 10 years then the were rebuilt to run anther 10
years some went through this process 3 to 5 times. These slow
turning engines should last 75 to 100 years in a sailboat if the
cylinder head is reworked on occasion. Today with solarpanels an led
lights the engines are hardly used as generators at all. So for the
most part to are used to go in and out of the dock and motoring home
on Sunday if there is no wind. My engine is over 40 years old and I
am almost 80 I God willing will be sailing another 10 years my
engine runs a charm and I don't expect to replace it. I cannot
emagine how your engine could possibley be worn out in a boat that
is only 40 years old. We all have been taken in by consumerism
were we replace cars that are very capable of runnig 500,000 miles
when they get 100,000 on them. Your engine was built befor that
started and I believe that Albin thought the engine was good for
the life of the boat.
Newport News Ship building in WW2 built Buddy diesels for navy
landing barges and captains gigs as well as Rhino barges. They
called them throw away engines and were expected to last the
duration of the war. Some are still running today and you haven't
been able to buy any parts for them after 1970.
What I am saying is be really sure you need a new engine. In
all probability all it needs is a little reworking. It don't cost
anything to get some advice from and old shade tree mechanic.
Doug
On 11/19/2013 07:44 PM,
bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
I am one who has a tendency to rebuild. However when I had my MD6 rebuilt I could not get replacement parts for it. I needed new valves. The resulting rebuild was less than satisfactory. I would check to see that parts are available. Richard
Here is an example of old engines lasting. This bus in the link
below at one time belong to a friend of mine that made TV
commercials and traveled around the country doing it. When he
bought her she had over 8 million miles on her on her original
engine. She was rebuilt at 6 million miles. Now in privat ownership
she has likely not gotten the use or maintenance but I bet she has
and additional half a million miles now.
I live in farm country and some around have Kabota Tractors and
like them. They are working for a living machines, not play toys
like our boat engines. Doug
On 11/19/2013 08:48 PM,
rkfwkp@... wrote:
below at one time belong to a friend of mine that made TV
commercials and traveled around the country doing it. When he
bought her she had over 8 million miles on her on her original
engine. She was rebuilt at 6 million miles. Now in privat ownership
she has likely not gotten the use or maintenance but I bet she has
and additional half a million miles now.
I live in farm country and some around have Kabota Tractors and
like them. They are working for a living machines, not play toys
like our boat engines. Doug
On 11/19/2013 08:48 PM,
rkfwkp@... wrote:
Very well said Doug, and long may you bring the younger members (and all of us) a dose of reality.I have had engines fail at the worst of times (motoring down the Rhine was a classic) but nothing that could not be fixed with a little knowledge and ingenuity.EdTo: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: dougpol2@...Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 09:56:43 -0500Subject: Re: ????: [AlbinVega] RE: Outboard Install
How do you know the engine is worn out? Most of the time when they
are not running right or don't have power it is because the valves
are worn. The cylinder head can be reworked in a machine shop for
$500 or less. if you go looking for advice from a diesel mechanic
on rebuilting find an old one. They understand rebuilding. Most of
the young ones have been tought by Yanmar or Bata and mostly what
the understand is repairing those engines and the big service the
provide is to sell you a new engine. Replacing engines is a new
modern answer. Concider this your engine was designed around 1920
it had no starter or alternator. They ran pumps and generators and
they ran 24-7 for 10 years then the were rebuilt to run anther 10
years some went through this process 3 to 5 times. These slow
turning engines should last 75 to 100 years in a sailboat if the
cylinder head is reworked on occasion. Today with solarpanels an led
lights the engines are hardly used as generators at all. So for the
most part to are used to go in and out of the dock and motoring home
on Sunday if there is no wind. My engine is over 40 years old and I
am almost 80 I God willing will be sailing another 10 years my
engine runs a charm and I don't expect to replace it. I cannot
emagine how your engine could possibley be worn out in a boat that
is only 40 years old. We all have been taken in by consumerism
were we replace cars that are very capable of runnig 500,000 miles
when they get 100,000 on them. Your engine was built befor that
started and I believe that Albin thought the engine was good for
the life of the boat.
Newport News Ship building in WW2 built Buddy diesels for navy
landing barges and captains gigs as well as Rhino barges. They
called them throw away engines and were expected to last the
duration of the war. Some are still running today and you haven't
been able to buy any parts for them after 1970.
What I am saying is be really sure you need a new engine. In
all probability all it needs is a little reworking. It don't cost
anything to get some advice from and old shade tree mechanic.
Doug
On 11/19/2013 07:44 PM,
bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
How do you know the engine is worn out? Most of the time when they
are not running right or don't have power it is because the valves
are worn. The cylinder head can be reworked in a machine shop for
$500 or less. if you go looking for advice from a diesel mechanic
on rebuilting find an old one. They understand rebuilding. Most of
the young ones have been tought by Yanmar or Bata and mostly what
the understand is repairing those engines and the big service the
provide is to sell you a new engine. Replacing engines is a new
modern answer. Concider this your engine was designed around 1920
it had no starter or alternator. They ran pumps and generators and
they ran 24-7 for 10 years then the were rebuilt to run anther 10
years some went through this process 3 to 5 times. These slow
turning engines should last 75 to 100 years in a sailboat if the
cylinder head is reworked on occasion. Today with solarpanels an led
lights the engines are hardly used as generators at all. So for the
most part to are used to go in and out of the dock and motoring home
on Sunday if there is no wind. My engine is over 40 years old and I
am almost 80 I God willing will be sailing another 10 years my
engine runs a charm and I don't expect to replace it. I cannot
emagine how your engine could possibley be worn out in a boat that
is only 40 years old. We all have been taken in by consumerism
were we replace cars that are very capable of runnig 500,000 miles
when they get 100,000 on them. Your engine was built befor that
started and I believe that Albin thought the engine was good for
the life of the boat.
Newport News Ship building in WW2 built Buddy diesels for navy
landing barges and captains gigs as well as Rhino barges. They
called them throw away engines and were expected to last the
duration of the war. Some are still running today and you haven't
been able to buy any parts for them after 1970.
What I am saying is be really sure you need a new engine. In
all probability all it needs is a little reworking. It don't cost
anything to get some advice from and old shade tree mechanic.
Doug
On 11/19/2013 07:44 PM,
bonnerwhitman@... wrote:
new electrics
new exhaust
new shaft and cutlass
new shifter
new water intake
had to pay mechanic
probably more that I forget now...
new exhaust
new shaft and cutlass
new shifter
new water intake
had to pay mechanic
probably more that I forget now...