I have a 1990 Johnson 9.9 sailmaster on my 25.5. Its in need of a tune-up now since it does not want to idle well, I need to keep the choke 1/2 way out or so and that does not always work. Earlier this year the cooling water was not squirting well but I back-flushed w/ fresh water and unclogged it. Anyway, I got an estimate for around $500 to tune it up, replace the impeller, I guess some other minor maintenance to bring it back to good running condition. This estimate seems high? Any opinions? I think the man said $55/hr for labor for roughly 6-8 hours, plus parts. I would have thought 1 hr for impeller, and 2 hours for carb rebuild kit install, and 1 hr of misc., and thats my high estimate. All he's really doing is replacing parts. I guess it comes down to rather I think my time is better spent on other stuff, or fighting to fix an outboard for a day. So I'll probably pay it, just checking. Also, I need to pull the engine myself, then reinstall it. Should have done this over the winter! Oh well. Sorry for the rambling. - Mel
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
S
Steven de Filippis
i had a 87 johnson 9.9 similar probs.
i had a similar engine on my 23. i had to have the carb rebuilt and a general tune up. i dumped around $400. in wash DC. they had the motor for about 2 weeks and that was off season. after the fixes, i had overheating problems. i recently gave it away and bought a tohatsu 8hp. lighter, quieter and worry free now. i know what you mean about pulling the engine yourself. i tied a line to it when i did it. I’ve lost so many things in the drink. How confident are you in sailing back to your slip in case the engine has a serious malfunction? I’m not at all, that’s why I dumped the money for a new engine.
i had a similar engine on my 23. i had to have the carb rebuilt and a general tune up. i dumped around $400. in wash DC. they had the motor for about 2 weeks and that was off season. after the fixes, i had overheating problems. i recently gave it away and bought a tohatsu 8hp. lighter, quieter and worry free now. i know what you mean about pulling the engine yourself. i tied a line to it when i did it. I’ve lost so many things in the drink. How confident are you in sailing back to your slip in case the engine has a serious malfunction? I’m not at all, that’s why I dumped the money for a new engine.
F
Fred Feagin
I bought a back upTrolling motor !!
I bought and electric trolling motor which will run mine enough to get back to the slip. I carry it below just incase my Faithful Mariner 8hp 2cycle goes on vacation again. My electronics module died and it cost nearly $400.00 for it last season. I could never sail mine back to my concrete slip without sinking her !!!!
I bought and electric trolling motor which will run mine enough to get back to the slip. I carry it below just incase my Faithful Mariner 8hp 2cycle goes on vacation again. My electronics module died and it cost nearly $400.00 for it last season. I could never sail mine back to my concrete slip without sinking her !!!!
B
Bob Zanowicz
Same Problem!
I have the same problem right now, I have an '87 9.9HP Johnson Sailmaster in the shop because of overheating problems. Hoping that my problem is only an impeller, I cannot fathom putting 400 to 500 bucks into an engine like this. If the shop calls and it's bad news, I'll be in the market for a replacement.I've been searching on the web for a new replacement just in case. The Nissan/Tohatsu models look to be about the best for the $$$$ Anybody have any opinions? thanks Bob
I have the same problem right now, I have an '87 9.9HP Johnson Sailmaster in the shop because of overheating problems. Hoping that my problem is only an impeller, I cannot fathom putting 400 to 500 bucks into an engine like this. If the shop calls and it's bad news, I'll be in the market for a replacement.I've been searching on the web for a new replacement just in case. The Nissan/Tohatsu models look to be about the best for the $$$$ Anybody have any opinions? thanks Bob
C
Crazy Dave Condon
wow
Call around and get anothe estimate. You are on line as to the hours and I think you are correct in your estimation. IF you can, use 2+2 carb cleaner and that works great. The oil will clog up your carb particualy over the winter. Always suggest unplugging the fuel line from engine and run all the gas out on two cycle engines.
Call around and get anothe estimate. You are on line as to the hours and I think you are correct in your estimation. IF you can, use 2+2 carb cleaner and that works great. The oil will clog up your carb particualy over the winter. Always suggest unplugging the fuel line from engine and run all the gas out on two cycle engines.
S
Seth
Got you all beat!
I too had the same problem and dumped $450 into a 20 year old moter (the estimate was $250-$350). They said 3 weeks and took 3 months (off season)! And the real kicker? It cought fire the first day I took it out. Try and beat that for self-pitty....Seth
I too had the same problem and dumped $450 into a 20 year old moter (the estimate was $250-$350). They said 3 weeks and took 3 months (off season)! And the real kicker? It cought fire the first day I took it out. Try and beat that for self-pitty....Seth
K
Ken Shubert
Motor Wizardry
Working on 2-stroke engines is NOT rocket science, except maybe some Sea-Doos. Get a book, follow directions, get your hands dirty and the big bonus will be that when an engine fails in service, you then will have a good idea how to get it running again. Really good repair manuals for some outboards are hard to find. Sometimes it's 'who you know' and not 'what you know' also. If you're outraged by those shop prices, then fight back. You might have a bright future as a jet-ski mechanic. Good luck! Ken S/V WouffHong
Working on 2-stroke engines is NOT rocket science, except maybe some Sea-Doos. Get a book, follow directions, get your hands dirty and the big bonus will be that when an engine fails in service, you then will have a good idea how to get it running again. Really good repair manuals for some outboards are hard to find. Sometimes it's 'who you know' and not 'what you know' also. If you're outraged by those shop prices, then fight back. You might have a bright future as a jet-ski mechanic. Good luck! Ken S/V WouffHong
B
Bob Zanowicz
I Knew someone would say this....
You're right but I have to say easier said then done. Sometimes you have to be know when to quit with these things and pick your battles. You could easily end up in bigger trouble with out having a clue on how to re-assemble something. Oh Well
You're right but I have to say easier said then done. Sometimes you have to be know when to quit with these things and pick your battles. You could easily end up in bigger trouble with out having a clue on how to re-assemble something. Oh Well
V
Victor Robert
Learn how it works !
I agree with Ken. If you are depending on your motor for the safety of yourself, your crew, and your vessel as some on these replies imply, then pop the cover off, roll up your sleeves and figure it out. It really isn't rocket science. Fuel has to flow at a reasonable, controlled rate, air has to be available to mix with it, the spark plug has to spark, and the timing of spark to piston position has to be reasonably close to specification. You don't need to know how to totally disassemble the pistons and re-bore the cylinders. Just learn where the basic adjustments are and what each does. You'd hate to pay hundreds of dollars for a full tune-up just because a set screw has come loose, causing 80% of your problem. It will also save you money if you can talk the talk when you do need to hire trained help. Always remember the words of our fearless leader: "If its going to happen, its going to happen out there."
I agree with Ken. If you are depending on your motor for the safety of yourself, your crew, and your vessel as some on these replies imply, then pop the cover off, roll up your sleeves and figure it out. It really isn't rocket science. Fuel has to flow at a reasonable, controlled rate, air has to be available to mix with it, the spark plug has to spark, and the timing of spark to piston position has to be reasonably close to specification. You don't need to know how to totally disassemble the pistons and re-bore the cylinders. Just learn where the basic adjustments are and what each does. You'd hate to pay hundreds of dollars for a full tune-up just because a set screw has come loose, causing 80% of your problem. It will also save you money if you can talk the talk when you do need to hire trained help. Always remember the words of our fearless leader: "If its going to happen, its going to happen out there."
- Status
- Not open for further replies.