"Osmotic" blister war stories wanted

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Jim WIllis

"Fiberglass Trilogy III" is being prepared and will deal with osmotic blister. I've searched for input provided by makers of "fixit" methods, and many articles that have been written. I only had to deal with this problem once but will soon be hauling the boat again and will view previously repaired areas. What I would really like is input from people who have already done this. I would like to know if the "barrier coats", vinyl ester patches, epoxy patches etc really do hold up. Most of all I would like any answer (if there is one!) to the paradox of needing to thouroughly dry out the fiberglass when lay days (at least here in HI) are some $40.00 per day or more. THis input will be blended with the rest of the information and permanently posted here on this forum, as well as inclusion in a fall/winter IG newsletter. This will has other hints, tips etc from myself and customers. By the way if you want to get our newsletter just send an e-mail via www.IslandGirlProducts.com and your address will automatically be on the list. Thanks Jim Willis Thanks Jim Willis
 
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Tim Schaaf

Osmotic observations

These are based on THREE blister jobs that I have done, one poorly, one so so, and one well (with the benefit of good advice and experience). Periferally, I have also been involved with several other jobs done by friends. In answer to your questions, yes, drying does help and it can take months. My "good" job included about seven months in the Sonora dessert! And yes, a good barrier coat does work. Apart from all the normal things, I discovered the following from experience and very close questions to the technical types (not the sales people) at the blister repair systems manufacturers. 1) Most systems specify ten to twenty mils thickness....in fact, you are better off considering twenty to be the minimum and you won't go wrong up to forty mils. The thicker, the better, so start off by planning on TWICE the number of coats or thickness. 2) Do everything you can to eliminate water absorbtion in the bilge. This can take the form of a dry bilge, or a barrier coated bilge, or, better yet, both. 3) Run the barrier coat about six inches abover the waterline. Most boatyards barely get to the bootstripe, so it is like pulling teeth if you hire the job out. Plan on putting on a new bootstripe to cover the top of the barrier coat. 4) After you have exposed the laminate (either the whole thing or if you patch), rinse the laminate frequently during the drying period. This keeps the material that weeps from drying and effectively sealing the laminate, which keeps it from drying. Don't be afraid to scrub. 5) If you are patching, grind away an area several inches in radius around each blister. It will dry better, and the feathering and fairing are much easier. 7) You are giving the boat a new skin, so have a strategy for dealing with through-hulls, and other awkward areas. Ideally, you will remove these, but it is not always easy or necessary. 6) Read the directions, several times, and feel free to call the techs. They love to talk about their technology. 7) If you have not done any fiberglass or gelcoat work, go slow and easy. Use less material and more coats, rather than overdoing a particular coat. This will vastly ease the fairing process. 8) Do the best job you can. This is a horrifically tedious project, one you don't want to repeat. Don't skimp or be sloppy. On the other hand, don't let "perfect" be the enemy of the "good". GOOD LUCK.
 
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Jim WIllis

THis is a great reply

Were all the repairs done on the same boat? One observation I made with a rudder coated in p[olyester resin (a rush job, now it is coated in epoxy paint) it that the resin goes cloudy as it absorbs water. In fact this would make a great test bed for different coatings. I understand that if you open up the area of a blister, hyou keep goind down until the resin is clear and not cloudy before making the repair. THanks Jim Willis
 
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