Operation Sailboat

[rickdanger27]

i got my new 1974 Catalina 22 less than a week ago and so far i have a lot to do it seems. so i need advice where to start my goal is to have the boat in the water by may or june(i know every thing wont be perfect but just wanna use it during the summer). also if you guys need more pics to help let me know i can have them by the end of the day i will be cleaning the boat and sanding the bottom to start. i have owned a capri 14.2 and this is my step up so any advice is NECESSARY for my success so what i know is wrong with her now.

operation sailboat

know issues:

needs new lines all are rotted

i broke the pice that is at the head of the head of the boom closest to the mast that holds the foot of the sail

the sail has a hole close to the head along the seam

PO said that the keel winch is broke. i inspected the winch and it is defiantly broke it is rusted so bad that it is only holding on by one bolt.

1 broken/bent lifeline stanchion

the top sections of the companion way are crap need new ones. plastic or teak?

front hatch leaks the vent that was installed is dry rotted and is crap (i don't know if it was a solar vent or not just a mess of duck tape and leaking)

I'm not positive but i think the windows are leaking too

the furling jib is broke/bent i need to look more into this but it looks like it comes in sections but for now it is broke and if thats the case i will need a new jib with hanks.

needs bottom paint and the keel needs to be redone

 

[cjb300]

Quite a project you have going on! Here is a link to some pics of my 1974 Catalina 22

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24817024@N06/sets/72157630387400728/

Is your rudder original? In the one photo it looks like it has an elongated trailing edge in the lower section.

Good luck and have fun!

CJ

 

[mermike]

Check out KingAirDriver's threads on rebuilding his C22. There's lots of good information in there. Join the C22 National Sailing organization (https://www.catalina22.org/). Get the tech CD. No matter what you need to do to the boat, many have been there first and solved the problem in multiple ways.

We just got our C22 in September and are looking forward to a couple of smaller projects on her. I have really enjoyed this forum and it's been interesting reading it through the winter while dreaming of getting back on the water. When it thaws, that is.

Good luck!

 

[Bilbo]

Also Check out Catalina Direct for some of your replacement parts. http://www.catalinadirect.com/
I don't work for them. They are a good source of exact parts.
I'm afraid that you've got a real project on your hands.
Good Luck.

 

[mjp83]

Hey,

Glad you got this one before me! I saw it on CL last week. Nice trailer, too, I didn't have one, so I could not get it.

I went to Johnson & Wales uni. In Charleston for baking and pastry (i noticed you are a chef too), sailed the Bay Area with my south coast 22, which was very nice. Got interesting once the large container ships came in.

Good luck restoring it!

Martin
P.S. been looking for a Catalina, have a 19 oday now, but kids are getting bigger.

 

[KingAirDriver]

mpj83 go for a 25 if the kids are growing up.

And for what it is worth, rickdanger27, go for exterior parts in PLASTIC. It is an improvement that will allow you to sail more and work less. The exterior woodwork is very maintenance intensive, where the plastic is cleaner, easier and far less work.

The keel is actually a very easy job, get a gallon of west system 105, and a 4 inch grinder with a cone style twisted wire wheel. It will go quick, but it is mandatory that the keel be completely removed for the job. You won't do it in the grass, you need a hard surface underneath. Perhaps a couple sheets of plywood...

The keel winch, DO NOT toss it! It may not actually be "broken" Take it apart as best you can, clean and prime and paint. They are VERY expensive to replace. Do your best to see if you can get it working first.

Loads of resources here, do lots of reading, and always feel free to ask any questions you might come up with!

Welcome! And don't forget, LOTS of pictures!

 

[KingAirDriver]

Oh, and Don Casey book, the BIG one. "The complete illustrated sailboat maintenance manual" Like a high school textbook.

Great book.

However, look up Maine Sail's article on butyl tape hardware bedding on this site. It is a MUST. Order a package from him, and you will have enough to do the boat 4 times over, but you will find many uses for it outside of the boat.

DO NOT even bother with 3M 5200. It is SATAN's glue! LOL Bed hardware with Butyl tape, and your windows with *shrug*. Probably 4000 or 4200.

You may want to consider anything that is aluminum, like your window frames, when you remove them, bring them to a powder coater or get your own kit and an old oven and have them done in white.

 

[rickdanger27]

thanks for your info. today i sanded down the tiller handle and a little sanding on the rudder. Should i sand until i get rid of the black lines or have i done enough?

 

[KingAirDriver]

Take the rudder blade down to bare gelcoat, all white, and do yourself a favor, even if you keep it in the water, remove the rudder when not sailing, and put it down below.

The tiller is good, just get it smooth, then 8 coats of spar varnish, sanding with 220 or 300 or 00 steel wool, between coats, and like the rudder, keep it below when not in use.

 

[Chris Patterson]

On the tiller. Wipe straight CLOROX bleach on it. Wait ten minutes, do it again. Black be gone. Repeat if necessary.

Don't buy "dollar store" bleach. Unless you just don't want it to work..

 

[KingAirDriver]

Didn't even think about that Chris! Good tip!

 

[rickdanger27]

nice good idea with the bleach I'm going to try that now! and then i will start sanding on rudder more

 

[rickdanger27]

finished sanding down the rudder

today i finished sanding down the rudder and i tried the bleach on the tiller and no results with the cheap bleach i had at the house so i will get real bleach when i go back to the store and try agin. also what should i do about the low spots on the rudder that were gouged into the fiberglass nothing to deep and the crack? thanks also any advice on painting?

 

[KingAirDriver]

Open the crack up with some type of wedge, just open it enough to get some west systems epoxy down in there, then clamp it up, tight, and then flip it trailing edge down so the epoxy sits in the repair area. Get the low spots filled with that same epoxy, sand smooth, and finish with a 2 part linear polyurethane like Interlux Perfection.

If you want to spray it, make sure you use a NEW respirator and spray in a VERY well ventilated area. Or use a fresh air supply system.

Or you can cheat and roll/tip it.

You may want to use a 2 part epoxy primer/barrier coat before the top coats.

 

[Chris Patterson]

You may want to use a 2 part epoxy primer/barrier coat before the top coats.-(Quote)-

Yep. You've gone a little to far sanding, but no worries. Barrier coat.

 

[whatcaneyedo]

mpj83 go for a 25 if the kids are growing up.

And for what it is worth, rickdanger27, go for exterior parts in PLASTIC. It is an improvement that will allow you to sail more and work less. The exterior woodwork is very maintenance intensive, where the plastic is cleaner, easier and far less work.

The keel is actually a very easy job, get a gallon of west system 105, and a 4 inch grinder with a cone style twisted wire wheel. It will go quick, but it is mandatory that the keel be completely removed for the job. You won't do it in the grass, you need a hard surface underneath. Perhaps a couple sheets of plywood...

The keel winch, DO NOT toss it! It may not actually be "broken" Take it apart as best you can, clean and prime and paint. They are VERY expensive to replace. Do your best to see if you can get it working first.

Loads of resources here, do lots of reading, and always feel free to ask any questions you might come up with!

Welcome! And don't forget, LOTS of pictures!

I just finished coating my keel with epoxy this weekend. I followed your earlier recommendation and just bought a litre (+/-quart if you don't like metric) of west systems 105 which I found to be plenty. I also had started with a wire wheel for stripping but I found it to be pretty slow going. A regular grinding disk was much more effective (it still took a few hours) and then I finished it off with the wire wheel.

A 550lbs or 1200lbs break winch doesn't have to be expensive. If you're not planning on using the boat in saltwater I found a cheep painted metal brand at a local auto parts supplier. The zinc plated Fulton one on the other hand does go for around $150. I figured if I'm only going to use it when I'm either loading or unloading the boat from the trailer its not going to suffer from too much wear and tear. My boat came with its original winch which literally fell apart in my hands when I removed it because it was rusted right through.

 

[KingAirDriver]

The style of winch that comes with the boat has an integrated clutch in it. I think that it is because with the trim plate over the winch, you cannot access the little locking switch. Also, the drum diameter was changed at some point in the production run, it went from a small diameter that needed 40 cranks to retract the keel, to one that only needed 20.

Hopefully the one you got will work well. Keep us posted.

 

[rickdanger27]

i called interlux today

today i gave interlux a call to find out about how much and what my best options are for painting topside and bottom well they told me
"sand down a few spots on the topside and bottom with 280 grit sand papper. then place a small rag soaked in MEK Solvent to the spots you sanded down taped up with a small plastic bag over top so it will not evaporate the solvent off the rag. let the rag sit for 45 min to an hour then remove the rag and look at the rag and see if the color has come off onto the rag or if you have any bubbles or if its soft. this should tell you if you have single compound or duel compound paint then we can go from there."

so... i couldn't find MEK solvent but i found a substitute and i will be trying this tomorrow... also i used clorox bleach on my tiller handle and it worked better but did not remove all the black lines. I picked up some spar varnish at ace hardware and some foam brushes for applying to the tiller i told my wife that we had to buy the natural fiber brushes (1 for 11.99) but she said the foam would be fine (10 for 1.59) and they are allot cheaper is it ok to use the foam brush?

 

[KingAirDriver]

Don't bother with the solvent test.

You have bare gelcoat on the boat. Right? Rough it up with 220 wet, get it nice and smooth with filler as needed, and paint away. If you are concerned at all about bonding, prime with a 2 part epoxy primer.

You will need 2 each of the 1 quart Interlux Perfection kits to paint the deck. You can get away with 1 kit if you spray due to reducer being added. If you roll and tip, 2 kits will be better.

The hull, I would use a 1 gallon kit if roll/tip, 2 quarts if you spray.

It really sux running out of paint in the middle of the project.

Make sure you paint on a dry (low humidity) 70-80 degree day.

Don't let sweat hit the finish.

Don't bother painting below the waterline.

Don't bother painting the non-skid areas of the deck, UNLESS, it is in GREAT condition. If it is, then apply the finish a bit lighter in those areas, so as not to fill the cross hatch up too much with paint. This MIGHT eliminate the need for non-skid paint.

I have yet to find or hear about a non-skid paint that didn't have a down side.

Your other option, which is what I wish I did, is after the first coat of topsides paint gets just beyond tacky, CAREFULLY shake a non skid additive into the areas where the molded in non-skid is now, using a device like a pasta strainer or something, to shake a good, even coat of the grip additive into the surface. Use a manila folder or something like that to act as a shield on the edges. After the paint is *almost* cured, use a rolling pin or something similar to press the grit into the surface. After the coat is kicked good, sweep off the excess gently, then top coat with the final coat, encapsulating the grit and giving it a smooth, yet grippy, surface.

Don't forget, the 2 part poly has a VERY specific re-coat time. There is a minimum and a maximum number of hours between recoat. Anything over the max requires sanding to ensure polymer cross link.

Trust me when I tell you, sanding 2 part poly SUX.

And the upside to 2 part poly, is it never requires polish or wax.

 

[KingAirDriver]

Me personally, I would never attempt to roll/tip paint again. It didn't come out worth a darn for me. I am blessed with the talent to spray, I plan on using it! LOL

I roll/tip'ed the first coat, hated the results, sanded it down, and sprayed 2 more coats.

FWIW