Open Turnbuckle Alternative to Cotter Pins?

eugenesdream24

eugenesdream24

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Apr 23, 2014
54
Irwin 28 Long Island
Coming off my chainplates I have standard open turnbuckles secured with cotter pins. However on my portside turnbuckle the lower threaded connection is missing a cotter pin, and the hole for it is packed, seems to be completely closed. Like the old cotter pin broke off inside it. I know I could try to drill it out, but could I just use a circlip or retainer ring to secure it instead? Does anyone know another alternative to cotter pins?
 
centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
eugenesdream24 said:
Coming off my chainplates I have standard open turnbuckles secured with cotter pins. However on my portside turnbuckle the lower threaded connection is missing a cotter pin, and the hole for it is packed, seems to be completely closed. Like the old cotter pin broke off inside it. I know I could try to drill it out, but could I just use a circlip or retainer ring to secure it instead? Does anyone know another alternative to cotter pins?
Click to expand
Dont attamp to drill it out until you
Use a small punch to try and knock the broken cotter pin out... its uncommon but not unheard of that the cotter pin would be used and reused enough times to break off like that... but punching it out is the common repair for it when it happens, where as drilling could damage the hole beyond reuse if the bit drifts to the side as you drill it...
 
woodster

woodster

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
eugenesdream24 said:
Coming off my chainplates I have standard open turnbuckles secured with cotter pins. However on my portside turnbuckle the lower threaded connection is missing a cotter pin, and the hole for it is packed, seems to be completely closed. Like the old cotter pin broke off inside it. I know I could try to drill it out, but could I just use a circlip or retainer ring to secure it instead? Does anyone know another alternative to cotter pins?
Click to expand
if you can't get a cotter pin in there you can not get anything else in there just clear the hole with a punch and use a new cotter pin ...drilling out a ss cotter pin is not a good thing as the hole may be destroyed in the process then you have to get a new toggle...
 
Scott T-Bird

Scott T-Bird

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Oct 26, 2008
6,222
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I'm guessing that if the other threaded end is secured, it's not going anywhere. If it can't twist, it won't back out. Cotter pins on both ends is redundant and not necessary, me thinks.
 
rardiH36

rardiH36

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Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
eugenesdream24 said:
Does anyone know another alternative to cotter pins?
Click to expand
This thread from about two years ago suggests some alternatives. http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=154977&highlight=cotter&page=2

For a variation on the link included in Post #2, instead check out: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-x-35-ft-roll-hook-and-loop-cable-strap-96217.html.

Almost two years after have I exposed this product to 365 days per year sun, the "hook" side is still holding well to the "loop" side.

Next steps: Any hardware store should have stainless steel flat-head nails with a diameter that will be right for the diameter of the cotter pin holes that are on your boat. Cut the nails to the appropriate length. After drilling or center-punching a hole into the tape say about 1" from the end of the tape each piece of tape = 9") insert the SS nail through the tape. Put non-head end of the nail through the cotter pin hole. Then wrap the hook and loop tape around entire fitting a few times to secure. The SS nail now can't possibly work itself out of the cotter pin hole. But you can remove easily for rig tuning by unwrapping the hook and loop tape. If you cut the tape a wrap or two longer than really is needed, then after say a couple of years, just cut off the UV damaged outer wrap to expose the still undamaged stuff underneath.

One caveat: Inspect frequently!
 
Mark Maulden

Mark Maulden

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Jan 25, 2011
2,435
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I have a circlip on the pin from the mainsheet block to the traveller. I know it was installed "all the way". I have found it on the deck twice in two yrs. my rigger has heard of this but never first hand. Now he has. I dont use them anymore....
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
I use the biggest rings that fit the hole, about one inchers. Easy to see if they are still there.
 
DougM

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Like Ron, I use cotter rings. However they can be a PITA to remove when you want to tension the rig.
I was thinking about just getting a spool of Monel wire and taking a piece through the hole in the stud an a wrap or two around the turnbuckle.
Easy to remove and replace with new each time. As a rule of thumb, I would never re use anything that previously had been bent or twisted. Better safe than regretting it later.
 
caguy

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
DougM said:
Like Ron, I use cotter rings. However they can be a PITA to remove when you want to tension the rig.
I was thinking about just getting a spool of Monel wire and taking a piece through the hole in the stud an a wrap or two around the turnbuckle.
Easy to remove and replace with new each time. As a rule of thumb, I would never re use anything that previously had been bent or twisted. Better safe than regretting it later.
Click to expand
I have done that as previously mentioned with ss wire. I don't think Monel wire will twist like ss wire. The Monel I use for fishing lures has to be locked with a swaged feral .
Someone asked me to find the link to the instructions on wiring open turnbuckle and I can't find it. I found the ones I used for the closed forestay turnbuckle but not the open one. I know I saw one because I did the back stay that way. It may have been in a book or off line. It is driving me crazy. I plan on stopping in at the local rigging shop (not sailing rigging but studio rigging) and ask them for printed instructions. The way I see it the rings and cotter pins do not prevent the turnbuckle form backing off, they only prevent it from completely coming apart and failing all together.
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
caguy said:
... The way I see it the rings and cotter pins do not prevent the turnbuckle form backing off,...
Click to expand
They do if you use one big enough to go through the threaded shank then around the OUTSIDE of the turnbuckle.
 
caguy

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
I called our local rigging company and he indicated that they pass wire through the end of the credit rank and wrap both hands around the threads outside of the lock nut. just as they do on the closed body turnbuckle.
 
Dalliance

Dalliance

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Oct 6, 2007
1,115
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
I've been using cotter rings for a few years now. Through the hole and around the outside of the turnbuckle. Seems to work well. Easier on the ankles at the side decks; no need to tape them like cotter pins.
 
B

Blitz

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Jul 10, 2007
701
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Joe

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,147
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
woodster said:
that seems a little excessive money wise....... you can buy a lot of cotter pins and tape for $210.00 i would think ...but it is a novel idea
Click to expand
At 12.99 per pair, I would need three sets for the mast.... don't need them for the forestay and back stay... so that's $39.00.... reasonable and you save on band aids.
 
caguy

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
Joe said:
At 12.99 per pair, I would need three sets for the mast.... don't need them for the forestay and back stay... so that's $39.00.... reasonable and you save on band aids.
Click to expand
To cover the side stays you would need 6 pairs for the C 27.
 
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