I know that many of you owners have done the motor to rudder connection thing. Other than the one pictured in the photo archive, what were some other solutions?? I know you guys are a creative bunch! Would be particularly interested in any solutions involving Honda motors and wheel steering. I looked on that Honda WEB site mentioned and didn't see anything intended for a 9.9 that looks like it would solve this problem. Secondly, I had an OB motor lock that worked just fine in locking the transom screws (wing nuts?) on a former OB motor. However when I attempted to install it on the Honda 9.9, seems the wing nut handles are smaller and the lock can be pulled right off! So my second question is what are Honda 9.9 owners doing about locking/securing the motor? Again I saw no such device available from the Honda WEB site. Appreciate any help. Thanks. smooth sailing Tom
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Thinking the same thing
Tom, I was able to place a lock on the flippers that tighten the motor to the transom. Still don't think it will stop anyone. I was talking to "Crazy Dave" about it and told me that if someone wants your motor there is not much you can do but slow them down. Reference the rudder connection, not sure. Will take the boat out for the second time this coming weekend and will watch very carefully how it handles. One must assume if the connection is made, maneuverablility should increase at the slower speeds. jim S/V Java h260
Tom, I was able to place a lock on the flippers that tighten the motor to the transom. Still don't think it will stop anyone. I was talking to "Crazy Dave" about it and told me that if someone wants your motor there is not much you can do but slow them down. Reference the rudder connection, not sure. Will take the boat out for the second time this coming weekend and will watch very carefully how it handles. One must assume if the connection is made, maneuverablility should increase at the slower speeds. jim S/V Java h260
Photo's to follow..
I integrated the steeering connector with the Honda 9.9 remote control engine bracket on our H260. I am headed down to the boat this weekend and I will take some pictures...(If I can remember to fit it in between margaritas!) Stephen Dawes H260 Tender Morsel
I integrated the steeering connector with the Honda 9.9 remote control engine bracket on our H260. I am headed down to the boat this weekend and I will take some pictures...(If I can remember to fit it in between margaritas!) Stephen Dawes H260 Tender Morsel
motor connection
I will have to discribe it since I do not have a picture to post . First i started with a u-bold on the rudder post. I think it was a 2 1/4" one but it is easy to measure. I put some bicycle inner tube on the u-bolt to not scratch the rudder shaft and togive a little more traction. I then used "angle iron" that I can get from my local hadrware store. It is pre holed it is really ganvanized steel. I put a piece along the flat peice with the u-bolt for support then cut two peices so as to have holes parrallel to the rudder stock. I then used a 3/8" long threaded bolt. I simply ran it through the two smaller pieces and bolted to them. Then out across from the motor I bent it up at a right angle. I then ran a piece of metal over to the motor. It is bolted to the motor and can be lifted off the u-bolt. It works great. While motoring with the rudder down or with it up it turns the motor just fine. When I sail I just lift the piece of metal connecting them off the theaded bolt and flip it over to the motor and pull the motor up. I have been very pleased with the arrangement and it cost me very little. I have wheel steering as well and love it. Hope this helps. corky
I will have to discribe it since I do not have a picture to post . First i started with a u-bold on the rudder post. I think it was a 2 1/4" one but it is easy to measure. I put some bicycle inner tube on the u-bolt to not scratch the rudder shaft and togive a little more traction. I then used "angle iron" that I can get from my local hadrware store. It is pre holed it is really ganvanized steel. I put a piece along the flat peice with the u-bolt for support then cut two peices so as to have holes parrallel to the rudder stock. I then used a 3/8" long threaded bolt. I simply ran it through the two smaller pieces and bolted to them. Then out across from the motor I bent it up at a right angle. I then ran a piece of metal over to the motor. It is bolted to the motor and can be lifted off the u-bolt. It works great. While motoring with the rudder down or with it up it turns the motor just fine. When I sail I just lift the piece of metal connecting them off the theaded bolt and flip it over to the motor and pull the motor up. I have been very pleased with the arrangement and it cost me very little. I have wheel steering as well and love it. Hope this helps. corky
correction on discription
I was re-reading my discription and noticed an error. When I was talking about the connection between the moter and the assembly I said "u-bolt" when I ment threaded bolt. The threaded bolts are about 2-3 feet long so will need to cut some off. By turning the u-bolt slightly you clear the rudder and can raise it. It worked so well I backed it off the trailer and out into the lake before putting the rudder down. I was able to keep the mast support in place as well. Will use it to attach flag poles, etc. If you need pictures I could get some Memorial weekend and get them posted on the net. Corky MeriCay Dodge City, Kansas sail Lake Wilson
I was re-reading my discription and noticed an error. When I was talking about the connection between the moter and the assembly I said "u-bolt" when I ment threaded bolt. The threaded bolts are about 2-3 feet long so will need to cut some off. By turning the u-bolt slightly you clear the rudder and can raise it. It worked so well I backed it off the trailer and out into the lake before putting the rudder down. I was able to keep the mast support in place as well. Will use it to attach flag poles, etc. If you need pictures I could get some Memorial weekend and get them posted on the net. Corky MeriCay Dodge City, Kansas sail Lake Wilson
rudder to motor connection
I am in the process of installing a rudder to motor steering modification on my new 260. What I did is convert my formerly tiller equipped 9.9 electric start Mercury Bigfoot sailpower to both mechanical (accelerator and shift now on pedestal) and electrical remote control (with tach, fuel guage, oil pressure light, hours meter, electric choke, and key start). When I took off the tiller handle, I added a remote steering attachment plate. I then bought two ball-jointed hydraulic steering arms and cut off the short ninety-degree turn at the end of each arm. I then connected the two steering bolts together so that it formed a straight arm with a ball joint at each end. One ball joint is bolted permanently to the motor's attachment point. The other ball joint is slipped over a bolt I installed on the rudder steering arm and held in place when using the motor with a cotter clip so that I can easily disconnect it when the motor is not needed. I have drilled a hole in the arm that connects the rudder to the steering wire rope at the same pivot length as the motor so they would move together at the same angle. I'll be finishing up the work this week and test it in the water in about ten days. I'll let you know how it works after testing it.
I am in the process of installing a rudder to motor steering modification on my new 260. What I did is convert my formerly tiller equipped 9.9 electric start Mercury Bigfoot sailpower to both mechanical (accelerator and shift now on pedestal) and electrical remote control (with tach, fuel guage, oil pressure light, hours meter, electric choke, and key start). When I took off the tiller handle, I added a remote steering attachment plate. I then bought two ball-jointed hydraulic steering arms and cut off the short ninety-degree turn at the end of each arm. I then connected the two steering bolts together so that it formed a straight arm with a ball joint at each end. One ball joint is bolted permanently to the motor's attachment point. The other ball joint is slipped over a bolt I installed on the rudder steering arm and held in place when using the motor with a cotter clip so that I can easily disconnect it when the motor is not needed. I have drilled a hole in the arm that connects the rudder to the steering wire rope at the same pivot length as the motor so they would move together at the same angle. I'll be finishing up the work this week and test it in the water in about ten days. I'll let you know how it works after testing it.
honda motor lock
Tom I have a 8hp honda on my 23.5 and just use a padlock on the screw handles. just position them so the holes in the handle are both to the center then start the lock from the bottom and the key slot will face down in the normal position
Tom I have a 8hp honda on my 23.5 and just use a padlock on the screw handles. just position them so the holes in the handle are both to the center then start the lock from the bottom and the key slot will face down in the normal position
Thanks guys, yeah, some pictures would be great
Jim and Bill: Yes, I am using a pad lock on the motor flippers too, I just thought that there might be a more secure solution. So far, no luck. Stephen and Corky: Photos would be great! I'll be watching for them! Bernie that sounds like a real nice setup too I might give something like that a shot if I can figure out the pivot angle..... Thanks again to all. Tom
Jim and Bill: Yes, I am using a pad lock on the motor flippers too, I just thought that there might be a more secure solution. So far, no luck. Stephen and Corky: Photos would be great! I'll be watching for them! Bernie that sounds like a real nice setup too I might give something like that a shot if I can figure out the pivot angle..... Thanks again to all. Tom
Motor Lock
None of the available locks work on my 23.5 with Mercury 6.0. What I did in addition to locking the wing nuts together was to make a cable and run it through the tube that the motor pivots on around the bracket that holds the motor mounts to the boat on and to the padlock on the wing nuts. Of course if someone really wanted it they would just take out the four bolts and walk off with the whole thing. But those little wing nuts look just a little too flimsy to be much of a security measure.
None of the available locks work on my 23.5 with Mercury 6.0. What I did in addition to locking the wing nuts together was to make a cable and run it through the tube that the motor pivots on around the bracket that holds the motor mounts to the boat on and to the padlock on the wing nuts. Of course if someone really wanted it they would just take out the four bolts and walk off with the whole thing. But those little wing nuts look just a little too flimsy to be much of a security measure.
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