One last Spinlock question- I hope

[Mark Cooper]

Okay, so you guys talked me into it. I went to West Marine this evening about bought the great, splendiferous Spinlock rope clutches to replace the *(*$&#@@$ cleats on my 240. Just a couple of quick questions to those of you who've installed them before I get to my boat without the proper tools:1) On the 240, are the current screws hold the *(*$&#@@$ cleats tapped or bolted through? I haven't taken them off yet and don't recall; but though I saw bolts and nuts beneath the access panel. 2) I bought bolts, nuts and washers to fit the new rope clutches, but notice that some of you used the existing aft bolt to mount them, using a dremel tool or the like. Did you just have to drill out the smaller 10/24 hole to fit the 1/4" hole? Or did you have to also widen the countersink hole?I appreciate the info. I'm quite a distance from my boat at present so can't go look to find the answers to my questions. Plus, I want to follow in the footsteps of those brave souls who've drilled holes in their new boats before I start.

 

[Rick Webb]

Check the archives and the photo forum

I put a bunch of info there after I installed them on my 23.5. But for a quick run down. The PX Cleats are made for 6 mm if I remember correctly least ways they are between a #10 and a 1/4 inch screw. I took a dremel to mine and made it fit and they have lasted so far. I was able to use the same holes that the jam cleats were attached with On my boat they were threaded into a piece of aluminum laminated into the deck. I added a 1" teak riser to get a better angle to set the cleat. The riser I cut to the same shape as the raised portion of the deck. The 240 I do not think has that but you guys with 23.5s will know what I am talking about. An addition piece of advice for the riser is to cut it on a bias with the grain. Across the grain it leaves a very small section across the bolt holes and with the grain it does the same making it more susceptible to splitting. Good luck I think it was the best $50 I spent on the boat the wife thinks it was the cordless blender but likes the cleats also.

 

[Dave Condon]

plate

There is a thick aluminum plate encapsulate beneath in the fiberglass.All you do to remove is whith a screwdriveer as the bolts are into the threaded plates from tapping. It might be hard at first which is due to the caulking. Simply use existing holes if necessary which may be 1/4 x20Crazy Dave

 

[Tom M.]

so Rick (et al),

how the heck do you search the photo forum? Using its limited search functions I tried searching for: cleats, PX cleats, clutches, rope clutches, models 22 - 26.5, and I even tried searching for Rick Webb. Never could find the article/photos you posted in the past. Pretty lame, what gives? We need a decent search utility there or at least some way of getting to the older photo articles. Oh well....Tom

 

[Rick Webb]

Photo Forum

Look under general interest it is about 3/4 of the way down. I just lookedand could find it. Maybe we should get Phill to move it if that makes it easier to find.

 

[Bly Berken]

Tom (et al)

I tried searching too and had the same issues. Phil is out of the office until Wednesday, August 9. I'll bring this to his attention when he returns and we'll see what we can do.BlyHOW

 

[Dan Johnson]

My two cents

On my 260, I replaced the rope clutches with the spinlocks by fabricating an aluminum plate. I tapped, and counter sunk the holes for the spinlocks,(using flat head screws) and used through holes in the location of the original rope clutchs (for the original hardware). Applied a little silicone for water tightness. Works great, and I have the option of going back to original if I sell the boat, and want to transfer the spinlocks.

 

[Phil Herring]

I'm baaaaa-ack

Yep, the search feature in the photo forum was pretty lame. I've upgraded it this morning an it now searches on model, author, title, or copy. Let me know if you encounter any problems.

 

[Bryan C.]

Good to have you back, Phil*

nm